voyage of the paper canoe-第55章
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The mayor and his friends received me upon the veranda of the hotel with kind words of welcome。 Bright lights glimmered at this moment through the long avenue of trees； and music arose upon the night air。 It was a torchlight procession coming from the river； bearing upon a framework structure； from which hung Chinese lanterns and wreaths of laurel； the little paper canoe。 The Base…ball Club of the city； dressed in their handsome uniform； carried the 〃Maria Theresa；〃 while the sailors from the lumber fleet in the river； with the flags of several nationalities； brought up the rear。
When the procession arrived in front of the hotel； three hearty cheers were given by the people； and the mayor read the city's address of welcome to me； to which I made reply； not only in behalf of myself； but of all those of my countrymen who desired the establishment of a pure and good government in every portion of our dear land。
Mayor Arnow presented me with an engrossed copy of his speech of welcome； in which he invited all industrious northerners to come to his native city； promising that city ordinances should be passed to encourage the erection of manufactories； &c。； by northern capital and northern labor。 After the address； the wife of the mayor presented me with two memorial banners； in the name of the ladies of the city。 These were made for the occasion； and being the handiwork of the ladies themselves； were highly appreciated by the recipient。 When these graceful tributes had been received； each lady and child present deposited a bouquet of flowers； grown in the gardens of St。 Mary's； in my little craft； till it contained about four hundred of these refined expressions of the good…will of these kind people。 Not only did the native population of the town vie with each other to accord the lonely voyager a true southern welcome； but Mr。 A。 Curtis； an English gentleman； who； becoming fascinated with the fine climate of this part of Georgia； had settled here； did all he could to show his appreciation of canoe…travelling； and superintended the marine display and flag corps of the procession。
I left St。 Mary's with a strange longing to return to its interesting environs； and to study here the climatology of southern Georgia； for； strange to say； cases of local 〃fever and chills〃 have never originated in the city。 It is reached from Savannah by the inside steamboat route； or by rail； to Fernandina； with which it is connected by a steamboat ferry eight miles in length。 Speculation not having yet affected the low valuation placed upon property around St。 Mary's； northern men can obtain winter homes in this attractive town at a very low cost。 This city is a port of entry。 Mr。 Joseph Shepard； a most faithful government officer； has filled the position of collector of customs for several years。
As vessels of considerable tonnage can ascend the St。 Mary's River from the sea on a full tide to the wharves of the city； its citizens prophesy a future growth and development for the place when a river and canal route across the peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico shall have been completed。 For many years Colonel Raiford has been elaborating his plan 〃for elongating the western and southern inland system of navigation to harbors of the Atlantic Ocean。〃 He proposes to unite the natural watercourses of the coast of the Gulf of Mexico by short canals； so that barges drawing seven feet of water； and freighted with the produce of the Mississippi River and its tributaries； may pass from New Orleans eastward to the southern ports of the Atlantic States。 The great peninsula of Florida would be crossed by these vessels from the Suwanee to the St。 Mary's River by means of a canal cut through the Okefenokee Swamp； and this route would save several hundred miles of navigation upon open ocean waters。 The dangerous coral reefs of the Florida and Bahama shores would be avoided； and a land…locked channel of thirty thousand miles of navigable watercourses would be united in one system。
Lieutenant…Colonel Q。 A。 Gilmore's report on 〃Water Line for Transportation from the Mouth of the St。 Mary's River； on the Atlantic Coast； through Okefenokee Swamp and the State of Florida to the Gulf of Mexico；〃 in which the able inquirer discusses this water route； has recently been published。 I traversed a portion of this route in 1875…6； from the head of the Ohio River to New Orleans； and along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico to Cedar Keys； in a cedar duck…boat； and as the results of my observations may some day be made public； I will at this time refer the reader； if he be interested in the important enterprise； to the Congressional reports which describe the feasibility of the plan。
Another portage by rail was made in order to complete my journey to the Gulf of Mexico； and Rixford； near the Suwanee River； was reached via the A。 G。 & W。 I。 T。 C。 Railroad to Baldwin； thence over the J。 P。 & M。 Railroad to Live Oak； where another railroad from the north connects； and along which； a few miles from Live Oak； Messrs。 Dutton & Rixford had recently established their turpentine and resin works。
At Rixford I found myself near the summit； or backbone of Florida； from which the tributaries of the water…shed flow on one side to the Atlantic Ocean； and on the other to the Gulf of Mexico。 It was a high region of rolling country； heavily wooded with magnificent pine forests； rich in terebinthine resources。 The residence of the proprietor； the store and the distillery； with a few log cabins inhabited by negroes and white employees； made up the establishment of Rixford。
The Crackers and negroes came from long distances to see the paper boat。 One afternoon； when a number of people had gathered at Rixford to behold the little craft； I placed it on one of those curious sheets of water of crystal purity called in that region a sink； and though this nameless； mirror…like lakelet did not cover over an acre in extent； the movements of the little craft； when propelled by the double paddle； excited an enthusiasm which is seldom exhibited by the piny…woods people。
As the boat was carefully lifted from the silvery tarn； one woman called out in a loud voice； 〃Lake Theresa！〃 and thus； by mutual consent of every one present； did this lakelet of crystal waters receive its name。
The blacks crowded around the canoe； and while feeling its firm texture； and wondering at the long distance it had traversed； expressed themselves in their peculiar and original way。 One of their number； known as a 〃tonguey nigger；〃 volunteered to explain the wonder to the somewhat confused intellects of his companions。 To a question from one negro as to 〃How did dis yere Yankee…man cum all dis fur way in de paper canoe； all hissef lone？〃 the 〃educated〃 negro replied： 〃It's all de Lord。 No man ken cum so fur in paper boat ef de Lord didn't help him。 De Lord does eberyting。 He puts de tings in de Yankee…man's heads to du um； an' dey duz um。 Dar was de big Franklin up norf； dat made de telegraf。 Did ye eber bar tell ob him？〃
〃Neber； neber！〃 responded all the negroes。
Then； with a look of supreme contempt for the ignorance of his audience； the orator proceeded： 〃Dis great Franklin； Cap'n Franklin； he tort he'd kotch de litening and make de telegraf； so he flies a big kite way up to de heabens； an' he puts de string in de bottle dat hab nufing in it。 Den he holds de bottle in one hand； an' he holds de cork in de udder hand。 Down cums de litening and fills de bottle full up； and Cap'n Franklin he dun cork him up mighty quick； and kotched de litening an' made de telegraf。 But it was de Lord de Lord； not Cap'n Franklin dat did all dis。〃
It was amusing to watch the varied expression of the negroes； as they listened to this description of the discovery of electricity； and the origin of the telegraph。 Their eyes dilated with wonder； and their thick lips parted till the mouth； growing wider and wider； seemed to cover more than its share of the face。 The momentary silence was soon broken by a deep gurgle proceeding from a stolid…looking negro； as he exclaimed： 〃Did he kotch de bottle full ob litening； and cork him up。 Golly！ I tort he wud hab busted hissef
