voyage of the paper canoe-第54章
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ive opposite a creature as he entered the water。 When thus confronted； the alligator would depress his ugly head； lash the water once with his tail； and dive under the canoe； a most thoroughly alarmed animal。 All these alligators were mere babies； very few being over four feet long。 Had they been as large as the one which greeted me at Colonel's Island； I should not have investigated their dispositions； but would have considered discretion the better part of valor； and left them undisturbed in their sun…baths on the banks。
In all my experience with the hundreds of alligators I have seen in the southern rivers and swamps of North America； every one； both large and small； fled at the approach of man。 The experience of some of my friends in their acquaintance with American alligators has been of a more serious nature。 It is well to exercise care about camping at night close to the water infested with large saurians； as one of these strong fellows could easily seize a sleeping man by the leg and draw him into the river。 They do not seem to fear a recumbent or bowed figure； but； like most wild animals； flee before the upright form of man。
Late in the afternoon I passed an island； made by a 〃cut…off〃 through a bend of the river； and； according to previous directions； counted fourteen bends or reaches in the river which was to guide me to Stewart's Ferry； the owner of which lived back in the woods； his cabin not being discernible from the river。 Near this spot； which is occasionally visited by lumbermen and pinywoods settlers； I drew my canoe on to a sandy beach one rod in length。 A little bluff； five or six feet above the water； furnished me with the broad leaves of the saw…palmetto； a dwarfish sort of palm； which I arranged for a bed。 The provision…basket was placed at my head。 A little fire of light…wood cheered me for a while； but its bright flame soon attracted winged insects in large numbers。 Having made a cup of chocolate； and eaten some of Captain Akin's chipped beef and crackers； I continued my preparations for the night。 Feeling somewhat nervous about large alligators； I covered myself with a piece of painted canvas； which was stiff and strong； and placed the little revolver； my only weapon； under my blanket。
As I fully realized the novelty of my strange position in this desolate region； it was some time before I could compose myself and sleep。 It was a night of dreams。 Sounds indistinct but numerous troubled my brain； until I was fully roused to wakefulness by horrible visions and doleful cries。 The chuck…will's…widow； which in the south supplies the place of our whippoorwill； repeated his oft…told tale of 〃 chuckwill's…widow； chuck…will's…widow；〃 with untiring earnestness。 The owls hooted wildly； with a chorus of cries from animals and reptiles not recognizable by me； excepting the snarling voices of the coons fighting in the forest。 These last were old acquaintances； however； as they frequently gathered round my camp at night to pick up the remains of supper。
While I listened； there rose a cry so hideous in its character and so belligerent in its tone； that I trembled with fear upon my palm…leaf mattress。 It resembled the bellowing of an infuriated bull； but was louder and more penetrating in its effect。 The proximity of this animal was indeed unpleasant； for he had planted himself on the river's edge； near the little bluff upon which my camp had been constructed。 The loud roar was answered by a similar bellow from the other side of the river； and for a long time did these two male alligators keep up their challenging cries； without coming to combat。 Numerous wood…mice attacked my provision…basket； and even worked their way through the leaves of my palmetto mattress。
Thus with an endless variety of annoyances the night wore wearily away； but the light of the rising sun did not penetrate the thick fog which enveloped the river until after eight o'clock； when I embarked for a second day's journey upon the stream； which had now attained a width of five or six rods。 Rafts of logs blocked the river as I approached the settlement of Trader's Hill； and upon a most insecure footing the canoe was dragged over a quarter of a mile of logs； and put into the water on the lower side of the 〃jam。〃 Crossing several of these log 〃jams；〃 which covered the entire width of the St。 Mary's； I became weary of the task； and； after the last was reached； determined to go into camp until the next day； when suddenly the voices of men in the woods were heard。
Soon a gentleman； with two raftsmen； appeared and kindly greeted me。 They had been notified of my approach at Trader's Hill by a courier sent from Dutton across the woods； and these men； whose knowledge of wood…craft is wonderful； had timed my movements so correctly that they had arrived just in time to meet me at this point。 The two raftsmen rubbed the canoe all over with their hands； and expressed delight at its beautiful finish in their own peculiar vernacular。
〃She's the dog…gonedest thing I ever seed； and jist as putty as a new coffin！〃 exclaimed one。
〃Indeed； she's the handsomest trick I ever did blink on；〃 said the second。
The two stalwart lumbermen lifted the boat as though she were but a feather； and carried her； jumping from log to log； the whole length of the raft。 They then put her gently in the water； and added to their farewell the cheering intelligence that 〃there's no more jams nor rafts 'twixt here and the sea； and you can go clar on to New York if you like。〃
Trader's Hill； on a very high bluff on the left bank； was soon passed； when the current seemed suddenly to cease； and I felt the first tidal effect of the sea； though many miles from the coast。 The tide was flooding。 I now laid aside the paddle； and putting the light steel outriggers in their sockets； rapidly rowed down the now broad river until the shadows of night fell upon forest and stream； when the comfortable residence of Mr。 Lewis Davis； with his steam saw…mill； came into sight upon Orange Bluff； on the Florida side of the river。 Here a kind welcome greeted me from host and hostess； who had dwelt twenty years in this romantic but secluded spot。 There were orange…trees forty years old on this property； and all in fine bearing order。 There was also a fine sulphur spring near the house。
Mr。 Davis stated that； during a residence of twenty years in this charming locality； he had experienced but one attack of chills。 He considered the St。 Mary's River； on account of the purity of its waters； one of the healthiest of southern streams。 The descent of this beautiful river now became a holiday pastime。 Though there were but few signs of the existence of man； the scenery was of a cheering character。 A brick…kiln； a few saw…mills； and an abandoned rice…plantation were passed； while the low saltmarshes； extending into the river from the forest…covered upland； gave evidence of the proximity to the sea。 Large alligators were frequently seen sunning themselves upon the edges of the banks。
At dusk the town of St。 Mary's； in its wealth of foliage； opened to my view from across the lowlands； and soon after the paper canoe was carefully stored in a building belonging to one of its hospitable citizens； while local authority asserted that I had traversed one hundred and seventy…five miles of the river。
One evening； while enjoying the hospitality of Mr。 Silas Fordam； at his beautiful winter home； 〃Orange Hall；〃 situated in the heart of St。 Mary's； a note； signed by the Hon。 J。 M。 Arnow； mayor of the city； was handed me。 Mr。 Arnow； in the name of the city government； invited my presence at the Spencer House。 Upon arriving at the hotel； a surprise awaited me。 The citizens of the place had gathered to welcome the paper canoe and its owner； and to express the kindly feelings they； as southern citizens； held towards their northern friends。 The hotel was decorated with flags and floral emblems； one of which expressed； in its ingeniously constructed words； wrought in flowers； 〃One hundred thousand Welcomes。〃
The mayor and his friends received me upon the veranda of the hotel with kind words of welcome。 Bright lights glimmered at this moment through the
