voyage of the paper canoe-第48章
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on of marshy shores； the Chechessee River and the Broad River mingle their strong currents in Port Royal Sound。 It was dusk when the sound was entered from the extreme end of Daw Island； where it became necessary to cross immediately to Skull Creek； at Hilton Head Island； or go into camp for the night。
I looked down the sound six miles to the broad Atlantic； which was sending in clouds of mist on a fresh breeze。 I gazed across the mouth of the Chechessee； and the sound at the entrance of the port of refuge。 I desired to traverse nearly three miles of this rough water。 I would gladly have camped； hut the shore I was about to leave offered to submerge me with the next high water。 No friendly hammock of trees could be seen as I glided from the shadow of the high rushes of Daw Island。 Circumstances decided the point in debate； and I rowed rapidly into the sound。 The canoe had not gone half a mile when the Chechessee River opened fully to view； and a pretty little hammock； with two or three shanties beneath its trees； could be plainly seen on Daw's Island。
It was now too late to return and ascend the river to the hammock； for the sound was disturbed by the freshening breeze from the sea blowing against the ebb…tide； which was increased in power by the outflowing flume of water from the wide Chechessee。 It required all the energy I possessed to keep the canoe from being overrun by the swashy； sharp…pointed seas。 Once or twice I thought my last struggle for life had come； but a merciful Power gave me the strength and coolness that this trying ordeal required； and I somehow weathered the dangerous oyster reefs above Skull Creek； and landed at 〃Seabrook Plantation；〃 upon Hilton Head Island； near two or three old houses； one of which was being fitted up as a store by Mr。 Kleim； of the First New York Volunteers； who had lived on the island since 1861。 Mr。 Kleim took me to his bachelor quarters； where the wet cargo of the Maria Theresa was dried by the kitchen fireplace。
The next day； February 18； I left Seabrook and followed Skull Creek to Mackay's Creek； and； passing the mouth of May River； entered Calibogue Sound； where a sudden tempest arose and drove me into a creek which flowed out of the marshes of Bull Island。 A few negro huts were discovered on a low mound of earth。 The blacks told me their hammock was called Bird Island。
The tempest lasted all day； and as no shelter could be found on the creek； a darky hauled my canoe on a cart a couple of miles to Bull Creek； which enters into Cooper River； one of the watercourses I was to enter from Calibogue Sound。 Upon reaching the wooded shores of Bull Creek； my carter introduced me to the head man of the settlement； a weazened…looking little old creature called Cuffy； who； though respectful in his demeanor to 〃de Yankee…mans；〃 was cross and overbearing to the few families occupying the shanties in the magnificent grove of live…oaks which shaded them。
Cuffy's cook…house； or kitchen； which was a log structure measuring nine by ten feet； with posts only three feet high； was the only building which could be emptied of its contents for my accommodation。 Our contract or lease was a verbal one； Cuffy's terms being 〃whateber de white man likes to gib an ole nigger。〃 Cuffy cut a big switch； and sent in his 〃darter；〃 a girl of about fourteen years； to clean out the shanty。 When she did not move fast enough to suit the old man's wishes； he switched her over the shoulders till it excited my pity； but the girl seemed to take the beating as an every…day amusement； for it made no impression on her hard skull and thick skin。
After commencing to 〃keep house；〃 the old women came to sell me eggs and beg for 〃bacca。〃 They requested me never to throw away my coffee…grounds； as it made coffee 〃good 'nuf for black folks。〃 I distributed some of my stores among them； and； after cutting rushes and boughs for my bed； turned in for the night。
These negroes had been raising Sea…Island cotton； but the price having declined to five cents a pound； they could not get twenty…five cents a day for their labor by cultivating it。
The fierce wind subsided before dawn； but a heavy fog covered the marshes and the creek。 Cuffy's 〃settlement〃 turned out before sunrise to see me off； and the canoe soon reached the broad Cooper River； which I ascended in the misty darkness by following close to the left bank。 Four miles up the Cooper River from Calibogue Sound there is a passage through the marshes from the Cooper to New River； which is called Ram's Horn Creek。 On the right of its entrance a well…wooded hammock rises from the marsh； and is called Page Island。 About midway between the two rivers and along this crooked thoroughfare is another piece of upland。 called Pine Island； inhabited by the families of two boat…builders。
While navigating Cooper River； as the heavy mists rolled in clouds over the quiet waters； a sail…boat； rowed by negroes； emerged from the gloom and as suddenly disappeared。 I shouted after them： 〃Please tell me the name of the next creek。〃 A hoarse voice came back to me from the cloud： 〃Pull and be d…d。〃 Then all was； still as night again。 To solve this seemingly uncourteous reply； so unusual in the south I consulted the manuscript charts which the Charleston pilots had kindly drawn for my use； and found that the negroes had spoken geographically as well as truthfully； for Pine Island Creek is known to the watermen as 〃Pull and be d…d Creek；〃 on account of its tortuous character； and chiefly because； as the tides head in it； if a boat enters it from one river with a favorable tide； it has a strong head current on the other side of the middle ground to oppose it。 Thus pulling at the oars at some parts of the creek becomes hard work for the boatmen； hence this name； which； though profane； may be considered geographical。
After leaving the Cooper River； the watercourses to Savannah were discolored by red or yellow mud。 From Pine Island I descended New River two miles and a half to Wall's Cut； which is only a quarter of a mile in length； and through which I entered Wright's River； following it a couple of miles to the broad； yellow； turbulent current of the Savannah。
My thoughts now naturally turned to the early days of steamboat enterprise； when this river； as well as the Hudson； was conspicuous； for though the steamer Savannah was not the first steam…propelled vessel which cut the waves of the Atlantic； she was the first steamer that ever crossed it。 Let us examine historical data。 Colonel John Stevens； of New York； built the steamboat Phoenix about the year 1808； and was prevented from using it upon the Hudson River by the Fulton and Livingston monopoly charter。
The Phoenix made an ocean voyage to the Delaware River。 The first English venture was that of the steamer Caledonia； which made a passage to Holland in 1817。 The London Times of May 11； 1819； printed in its issue of that date the following item：
〃GREAT EXPERIMENT。 A new vessel of three hundred tons has been built at New York for the express purpose of carrying passengers across the Atlantic。 She is to come to Liverpool direct。〃
This ship…rigged steamer was the 〃Savannah；〃 and the bold projector of this experiment of sending a steamboat across the Atlantic was Daniel Dodd。 The Savannah was built in New York； by Francis Ficket； for Mr。 Dodd。 Stephen Vail； of Morristown； New Jersey； built her engines； and on the 22d of August； 1818； she was launched； gliding gracefully into the element which was to bear her to foreign lands； there to be crowned with the laurels of success。 On May 25th this purely American…built vessel left Savannah； and glided out from this waste of marshes； under the command of Captain Moses Rogers； with Stephen Rogers as navigator。 The port of New London； Conn。； had furnished these able seamen。
The steamer reached Liverpool June 20th； the passage having occupied twenty…six days； upon eighteen of which she had used her paddles。 A son of Mr。 Dodd once told me of the sensation produced by the arrival of a smoking vessel on the coast of Ireland； and how Lieutenant John Bowie； of the king's cutter Kite； sent a boat…load of sailors to board the Savannah to assist her
