voyage of the paper canoe-第44章
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oner on Monday； fully posted for my voyage。 The tide commenced flooding at eleven A。 M。； and the flats soon afforded me water for their passage in the vicinity of the shore。 Heavy forests covered the uplands； where a few houses were visible。 Bull's Island； with pines and a few cabbage palms； was on my left as I reached the entrance of the southern thoroughfare at the end of the bay。 Here； in the intricacies of creeks and passages through the islands； and made careless by the possession of Mr。 Dennis' chart； I several times blundered into the wrong course； and got no further that afternoon than Price's Inlet； though I rowed more than twenty miles。 Some eight miles of the distance rowed was lost by ascending and descending creeks by mistake。
After a weary day's work shelter was found in a house close by the sea； on the shores of Price's Inlet； where； in company with a young fisherman； who was in the employ of Mr。 Magwood； of Charleston； I slept upon the floor in my blankets。 Charles Hucks； the fisherman； asserted that three albino deer were killed on Caper's Island the previous winter。 Two were shot by a negro while he killed the third。 Messrs。 Magwood； Terry； and Noland； of Charleston； one summer penned beside the water one thousand old terrapin； to hold them over for the winter season。 These 〃diamond…backs〃 would consume five bushels of shrimps in one hour when fed。 A tide of unusual height washed out the terrapins from their 〃crawl；〃 and with them disappeared all anticipated results of the experiment。
The next day； Caper's Island and Inlet； Dewees' Inlet； Long Island； and Breach Inlet were successively passed； on strong tidal currents。 Sullivan's Island is separated from Long Island by Breach Inlet。 While following the creeks in the marshes back of Sullivan's Island； the compact mass of buildings of Moultrieville； at its western end； at the entrance of Charleston harbor； rose imposingly to view。
The gloomy mantle of darkness was settling over the harbor as the paper canoe stole quietly into its historic waters。 Before me lay the quiet bay； with old Fort Sumter rising from the watery plain like a spectral giant； as though to remind one that this had been the scene of mighty struggles。 The tranquil waters softly rippled a response to the touch of my oars； all was peace and quiet here； where； only a few short years before； the thunder of cannon woke a thousand echoes； and the waves were stained with the lifeblood of America； where war； with her iron throat； poured out destruction； and God's creatures； men； made after his own image； destroyed each other ruthlessly； having never； in all that civilization had done for them； discovered any other way of settling their difficulties than by this wholesale murder。
The actors In this scene were scattered now； they had returned to the farm； the workshop； the desk； and the pulpit。 The old flag again floated upon the ramparts of Sumter； and a government was trying to reconstruct itself； so that the Great Republic should become more thoroughly a government of the people； founded upon equal rights to all men。
A sharp； scraping sound under my boat roused me from my revery； for I had leaned upon my oars while the tide had carried me slowly but surely upon the oyster…reefs； from which I escaped with some slight damage to my paper shell。 Newspaper reading had impressed upon me a belief that the citizens of the city which played so important a part in the late civil war might not treat kindly a Massachusetts man。 I therefore decided to go up to the city upon the ferry…boat for the large mail which awaited my arrival at the Charleston post…office； after receiving which I intended to return to Mount Pleasant； and cross the bay to the entrance of the southern watercourses； leaving the city as quietly as I entered it。
My curiosity was； however； aroused to see how； under the new reconstruction rule； things were conducted in the once proud city of Charleston。 As I stood at the window of the post…office delivery； and inquired through the narrow window for my letters； a heavy shadow seemed to fall upon me as the head of a negro appeared。 The black post…office official's features underwent a sudden change as I pronounced my name； and； while a warm glow of affection lighted up his dark face； he thrust his whole arm through the window； and grasped my hand with a vigorous shake in the most friendly manner； as though upon his shoulders rested the good name of the people。
〃Welcome to Charleston； Mr。 B____； welcome to our beautiful city；〃 he exclaimed。 So this was Charleston under reconstruction。
After handing me my mail； the postmaster graciously remarked； 〃Our rule is to close the office at five o'clock P。 M。； but if you are belated any day； tap at the door； and I will attend you。〃
This was my first welcome to Charleston； but before I could return to my quarters at Mount Pleasant； members of the Chamber of Commerce； the Carolina Club； and others； pressed upon me kind attentions and hospitalities； while Mr。 James L。 Frazer； of the South Carolina Regatta Association； sent for the Maria Theresa； and placed it in charge of the wharfinger of the Southern Wharf； where many ladies and gentlemen visited it。
When I left the old city； a few days later； I blushed to think how I had doubted these people； whose reputation for hospitality to strangers had been world…wide for more than half a century。
While here I was the guest of Rev。 G。 R。 Brackett； the well…loved pastor of one of Charleston's churches。 It was with feelings of regret I turned my tiny craft towards untried waters； leaving behind me the beautiful city of Charleston； and the friends who had so kindly cared for the lonely canoeist。
CHAPTER XII。 FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH； GEORGIA。
THE INTERIOR WATER ROUTE TO JEHOSSEE ISLAND。 GOVERNOR AIKEN'S MODEL RICE PLANTATION。 LOST IN THE HORNS。 ST。 HELENA SOUND。 LOST IN THE NIGHT。 THE PHANTOM SHIP。 A FINLANDER'S WELCOME。 A NIGHT ON THE EMPEROR S OLD YACHT。 THE PHOSPHATE MINES。 COOSAW AND BROAD RIVERS。 PORT ROYAL SOUND AND CALIBOQUE SOUND。 CUFFY 'S HOME。 ARRIVAL IN GEORGIA。 RECEPTIONS AT GREENWICH SHOOTING…PARK。
Captain N。 L。 Coste； and several other Charleston pilots； drew and presented to me charts of the route to be followed by the paper canoe through the Sea Island passages； from the Ashley to the Savannah River； as some of the smaller watercourses near the upland were not； in 1875； upon any engraved chart of the Coast Survey。
Ex…Governor William Aiken； whose rice plantation on Jehossee Island was considered； before the late war； the model one of the south； invited me to pass the following Sunday with him upon his estate； which was about sixty…five miles from Charleston； and along one of the interior water routes to Savannah。 He proposed to leave his city residence and travel by land； while I paddled my canoe southward to meet him。 The genial editor of the 〃News and Courier〃 promised to notify the people of my departure； and have the citizens assembled to give me a South Carolina adieu。 To avoid this publicity； so kindly meant； I quietly left the city from the south side on Friday； February 12th； and ascended the Ashley to Wappoo Creek； on the opposite bank of the river。
A steamboat sent me a screaming salute as the mouth of the Wappoo was reached； which made me feel that； though in strange waters； friends were all around me。 I was now following one of the salt…water； steamboat passages through the great marshes of South Carolina。 From Wappoo Creek I took the 〃Elliot Cut〃 into the broad Stono River； from behind the marshes of which forests rose upon the low bluffs of the upland； and rowed steadily on to Church Flats； where Wide Awake； with its landing and store； nestled on the bank。
A little further on the tides divided； one ebbing through the Stono to the sea； the other towards the North Edisto。 〃New Cut〃 connects Church Flats with Wadmelaw Sound； a sheet of water not over two miles in width and the same distance in length。 From the sound the Wadmelaw River runs to the mouth of the Dahoo。 Vessels drawing eight and a half feet of water can pass on full tides from Charleston over the course
