voyage of the paper canoe-第38章
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ployers had sent him from Wilmington; to hold and protect 〃their turpentine farm;〃 which was a wilderness of trees covering four thousand acres; and was valued; with its distillery; at five thousand dollars。 An old negro; who attended the still and cooked the meals; was his only companion。
We had finished our frugal repast; when a man; shouting in the darkness; approached the house on horseback。 This individual; though very tipsy; represented Law and Order in that district; as I was informed when 〃Jim Gore;〃 a justice of the peace; saluted me in a boisterous manner。 Seating himself by the fire; he earnestly inquired for the bottle。 His stomach; he said; was as dry as a lime…kiln; and; though water answers to slake lime; he demanded something stronger to slake the fire that burned within him。 He was very suspicious of me when Hall told him of my canoe journey。 After eying me from head to toe in as steady a manner as he was capable of; he broke forth with: 〃Now; stranger; this won't do。 What are ye a…travel'ing in this sort of way for; in a paper dug…out?〃
I pleaded a strong desire to study geography; but the wise fellow replied:
〃Geography! geography! Why; the fellers who rite geography never travel; they stay at home and spin their yarns 'bout things they never sees。〃 Then; glancing at his poor butternut coat and pantaloons; he felt my blue woollen suit; and continued; in a slow; husky voice: 〃Stranger; them clothes cost something; they be store…clothes。 That paper dug…out cost money; I tell ye; and it costs something to travel the hull length of the land。 No; stranger; if ye be not on a bet; then somebody's a…paying ye well for it。〃
For an hour I entertained this roughest of law dignitaries with an account of my long row; its trials and its pleasures。 He became interested in the story; and finally related to me his own aspirations; and the difficulties attending his efforts to make the piny…woods people respect the laws and good government。 He then described the river route through the swamps to the sea; and; putting his arm around me in the most affectionate manner; he mournfully said:
〃O stranger; my heart is with ye; but O; how ye will have to take it when ye go past those awful wretches to…morrow; how they will give it to ye! They most knocked me off my raft; last time I went to Georgetown。 Beware of them; I warn ye in time。 Dern the hussies。〃
Squire Jim so emphasized the danger that I became somewhat alarmed; for; more than anything else; I dreaded an outbreak with rough women。 And then; too; my new acquaintance informed me that there were four or five of these wretches; of the worst kind; located several miles down the stream。 As I was about to inquire into the habits of these ugly old crones; Mr。 Hall; wishing to give Squire James a hint; remarked that Mr。 B_____ might at any time retire to the next room; where half the bed was at his disposal。
〃Half the bed!〃 roared the squire; 〃here are three of us; and where's my half?〃
〃Why; squire;〃 hesitatingly responded my host; Mr。 B_____ is my guest; and having but one bed; he must have half of it no less。〃
〃Then what's to become of me?〃 thundered his Majesty of the law。
Having been informed that a shake…down would have been ready had he given notice of his visit; and that at some future time; when not so crowded; he could be entertained like a gentleman; he drew himself up; wrapped in the mantle of dignity; and replied:
〃None of that soft talk; my friend。 This man is a traveller; let him take travellers' luck three in a bed to…night。 I'm bound to sleep with him to…night。 Hall; where's the bottle?〃
I now retired to the back room; and; without undressing; planted myself on the side of the bed next the wall。 Sleep was; however; an unattainable luxury; with the squire's voice in the next room; as he told how the country was going to the dogs; because 〃niggers and white folks wouldn't respect the laws。 It took half a man's time to larn it to 'em; and much thanks he ever got by setting everybody to rights。〃 He wound up by lecturing Hall for being so temperate; his diligent search in all directions for bottles or jugs being rewarded by finding them filled with unsatisfactory emptiness。
He then tumbled into the centre of the bed; crowding me close against the wall。 Poor Hall; having the outside left to him; spent the night in exercising his brain and muscles in vain attempts to keep in his bed; for when his Majesty of the law put his arms akimbo; the traveller went to the wall; and the host to the floor。 Thus passed my first night in the great swamps of the Waccamaw River。
The negro cook gave us an early breakfast of bacon; sweet potatoes; and corn bread。 The squire again looked round for the bottle; and again found nothing but emptiness。 He helped me to carry my canoe along the unsteady footing of the dark swamp to the lower side of the raft of logs; and warmly pressed my hand as he whispered: 〃My dear B____; I shall think of you until you get past those dreadful 'wretches。' Keep an eye on your little boat; or they'll devil you。〃
Propelled by my double paddle; the canoe seemed to fly through the great forest that rose with its tall trunks and weird; moss…draped arms; out of the water。 The owls were still hooting。 Indeed; the dolorous voice of this bird of darkness sounded through the heavy woods at intervals throughout the day。 I seemed to have left the real world behind me; and to have entered upon a landless region of sky; trees; and water。
〃Beware of the cut…offs;〃 said Hall; before I left。 Only the Crackers and shingle…makers know them。 If followed; they would save you many a mile; but every opening through the swamp is not a cut…off。 Keep to the main stream; though it be more crooked and longer。 If you take to the cut…offs; you may get into passages that will lead you off into the swamps and into interior bayous; from which you will never emerge。 Men have starved to death in such places。〃
So I followed the winding stream; which turned back upon itself; running north and south; and east and west; as if trying to box the compass by following the sun in its revolution。 After paddling down one bend; I could toss a stick through the trees into the stream where the canoe had cleaved its waters a quarter of a mile behind me。
The thought of what I should do in this landless region if my frail shell; in its rapid flight to the sea; happened to be pierced by a snag; was; to say the least; not a comforting one。 On what could I stand to repair it? To climb a tree seemed; in such a case; the only resource; and then what anxious waiting there would be for some cypress…shingle maker; in his dug…out canoe; to come to the rescue; and take the traveller from his dangerous lodgings between heaven and earth; or it might be that no one would pass that way; and the weary waiting would be even unto death。
But sounds now reached my ears that made me feel that I was not quite alone in this desolate swamp。 The gray squirrels scolded among the tree…tops; robins; the brown thrush; and a large black woodpecker with his bright red head; each reminded me of Him without whose notice not a sparrow falleth to the ground。
Ten miles of this black current were passed over; when the first signs of civilization appeared; in the shape of a sombre…looking; two…storied house; located upon a point of the mainland which entered the swamp on the left shore of the river。 At this point the river widened to five or six rods; and at intervals land appeared a few inches above the water。 Wherever the pine land touched the river a pig…pen of rails offered shelter and a gathering…place for the hogs; which are turned loose by the white Cracker to feed upon the roots and mast of the wilderness。
Reeve's Ferry; on the right bank; with a little store and turpentine…still; twenty miles from Old Dock; was the next sign of the presence of man in this swamp。 The river now became broad as I approached Piraway Ferry; which is two miles below Piraway Farm。 Remembering the warnings of the squire as to the 〃awful wretches in the big pine woods;〃 I kept a sharp lookout for the old women who were to give me so much trouble; but th