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第35章

voyage of the paper canoe-第35章

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e only young man who seemed to find no favor in any woman's eyes invested more capital in sweetmeats than the others; and though every girl in the procession gave him a sharp word or a kick as he passed; yet none  refused his candies as he tossed them at the  maidens; or stuffed them into the pockets of their dresses。

The second ceremony was performed in about three minutes; and the preacher feeling faint from his long ride through the woods; declared he must have some supper。  So; while he was being served; the girls chatted together; the old ladies helped each other to snuff with little wooden  paddles; which were left protruding from one corner of their mouths after they had taken 〃a dip;〃 as they called it。  The boys; after learning that the preacher had postponed the third marriage for an hour; with a wild shout scampered off to Stewart's store for more candies。  I took advantage of the interim to inquire how it was that the young ladies and gentlemen were upon such terms of pleasant intimacy。

〃Well; captain;〃 replied the person  interrogated; 〃you sees we is all growed up together; and brotherly love and sisterly affection is our teaching。  The brethren love the sisteren; and they say that love begets love; so the sisteren loves the brethren。 It's parfecly nateral。 That's the hull story; captain。  How is it up your way?〃

At last the preacher declared himself satisfied with all he had eaten; and that enough was as good as a feast; so the young people fell into line; and we trudged to the third house; where; with the same dispatch; the third couple were united。 Then the fiddler scraped the strings of his  instrument; and a double…shuffle dance commenced。 The girls stamped and moved their feet about in the same manner as the men。  Soon four or five of the young ladies left the dancing…party; and seated themselves in a corner; pouting  discontentedly。  My companion explained to me that the deserters were a little stuck…up; having made two or three visits on a schooner to the city (Newbern); where they had other ways of dancing; and where the folks didn't think it pretty for a girl to strike her heels upon the floor; &c。

How long they danced I know not; for the prospect of a long row on the morrow sent me to rest in the storehouse; from which I was called by a kind old couple sending for me to take tea with them at half an hour after midnight。   Unwilling to wound the sensitive feelings of these hospitable people; I answered the summons in propia persona; and found it was the mother of bride No。 1; to whom I was indebted for the invitation。  A well…filled table took up the space in the centre of the room; where a few hours before the timbers creaked beneath the weight of the curious crowd; and there; sitting on one side in the same affectionate manner I have described; were the bride and groom;  apparently unmoved by the change of scene; while the bride's mother rocked in her chair; moaning; 〃O John; if you'd taken the other gal; I might have stood it; but this yere one has been my comfort。〃

At dawn the canoe was put into Core Sound; and I followed the western shore; cheered by the bright sun of our Saviour's natal day。  At noon the mouth of the thoroughfare between Harker's Island and the mainland was unintentionally passed; and I rowed along by the side of the island next Fort Macon; which is inside of the angle made by Cape Lookout。

Finding it impossible to reach Newbern via Morehead City that day; the canoe was beached upon the end of Harker's Island; where I  breakfasted at the fashionable hour of two P。 M。; with men; women; and children around me。  My mode of cooking the condensed food and liquid beef; so quickly prepared for the palate; and the remarkable boat of paper; all filled the islanders with wonder。  They were at first a little shy; looking upon the apparition  which seemed in some wonderful way to have dropped upon their beach  with the light of curiosity in their eyes。

Then; as I explained the many uses to which paper was put; even to the paying off of great national debts; my audience became very  friendly; and offered to get me up a Christmas dinner in their cabins among the groves of trees near the strand; if I would tarry with them until night。 But time was precious; so; with thanks on my part for their kind offers; we parted; they helping me launch my little boat; and waving a cheerful adieu as I headed the canoe for Beaufort; which was quietly passed in the middle of the afternoon。

Three miles further on; the railroad pier of Morehead City; in Bogue Sound; was reached; and a crowd of people carried the canoe into the hotel。  A telegram was soon received from the superintendent of the railroad at Newbern; inviting me to a free ride to the city in the first train of the following morning。

The reader who has followed me since I left the chilly regions of the St。 Lawrence must not have his patience taxed by too much detail; lest he should weary of my story and desert my company。 Were it not for this fear; it would give me pleasure to tell how a week was passed in Newbern; how the people came even from interior towns to see the paper canoe; how some; doubting my veracity; slyly stuck the blades of their pocket…knives through the thin sides of the canoe; forgetting that it had yet to traverse many dangerous inlets; and that its owner preferred a tight; dry boat to one  punctured by knives。  Even old men became  enthusiastic; and when I was absent from my little craft; an uncontrollable ambition seized them; and they got into the frail shell as it rested upon the floor of a hall; and threatened its  destruction。  It seemed impossible to make one  gentleman of Newbern understand that when the boat was in the water she was resting upon all her bearings; but when out of water only upon a thin strip of wood。

〃By George;〃 said this stout gentleman in a whisper to a friend; 〃I told my wife I would get into that boat if I smashed it。〃

〃And what did the lady say; old fellow?〃 asked the friend。 〃O;〃 he replied; '〃she said; 'Now don't make a fool of yourself; Fatness; or your ambition may get you into the papers;'〃 and the speaker fairly shook with laughter。

While at Newbern; Judge West and his brother organized a grand hunt; and the railroad  company sent us down the road eighteen miles to a wild district; where deer; coons; and wild…fowl were plentiful; and where we hunted all night for coons and ducks; and all day for deer。  Under these genial influences the practical study of geography for the first time seemed dull; and I became aware that; under the efforts of the  citizens of Newbern to remind me of the charms of civilized society; I was; as a travelling  geographer; fast becoming demoralized。

Could I; after the many pleasures I was daily enjoying; settle down to a steady pull and one meal a day with a lunch of dry crackers; or sleep on the floor of fishermen's cabins; with fleas and other little annoyances attendant  thereon?  Having realized my position; I tore myself away from my many new friends and retraced my steps to Morehead City; leaving it on  Tuesday; January 5th; and rowing down the little sound called Bogue towards Cape Fear。

As night came on I discovered on the shore a grass cabin; which was on the plantation of Dr。 Emmett; and had been left tenantless by some fisherman。  This served for shelter during the night though the struggles and squealings of a drove of hogs attempting to enter through the rickety door did not contribute much to my repose。

The watercourses now became more  intricate; growing narrower as I rowed southward。 The open waters of the sound were left behind; and I entered a labyrinth of creeks and small sheets of water; which form a network in the marshes between the sandy beach…islands and the mainland all the way to Cape Fear River。 The Core Sound sheet of the United States Coast Survey ended at Cape Lookout; there  being no charts of the route to Masonboro。  I was therefore now travelling upon local knowledge; which proves usually a very uncertain guide。

In a cold rain the canoe reached the little  village of Swansboro; where the chief personage of the place of two hundred inhabitants; Mr。 McLain; removed me from my temporary  camping…plac

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