voyage of the paper canoe-第34章
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r at hand; yet these dismal relics of their ancestors were allowed to be stolen away piecemeal by the encroaching ocean。 While I gazed sadly upon the strata of coffins protruding from the banks; shining objects like jewels seemed to be sparkling from between the cracks of their fractured sides; and as I tore away the rotten wood; rows of toads were discovered sitting in solemn council; their bright eyes peering from among the debris of bones and decomposed substances。〃
Portsmouth Island is nearly eight miles long。 Whalebone Inlet is at its lower end; but is too shallow to be of any service to commerce。 Hatteras and Ocracoke inlets admit sea…going vessels。 It is thirty…eight miles from Whalebone Inlet to Cape Lookout; which projects like a wedge into the sea nearly three miles from the mainland; and there is not another passage through the narrow beach in all that distance that is of any use to the mariner。 Following the trend of the coast for eleven miles from the point of Cape Lookout; there is an inlet; but; from the character of its channel and its shallowness; it is not of much value。
Leaving Portsmouth; the canoe entered Core Sound; which grew narrower as the shoals inside of Whalebone Inlet were crossed; partly by rowing and partly by wading on the sand…flats。 As night came on; a barren stretch of beach on my left hand was followed until I espied the only house within a distance of sixteen miles along the sea。 It was occupied by a coasting skipper; whose fine little schooner was anchored a long distance from the land on account of the shoalness of the water。 Dreary sand…hills protected the cottage from the bleak winds of the ocean。
While yet a long distance from the skipper's home; a black object could be seen crawling up the sides of a mound of white sand; and after it reached the apex it remained in one position; while I rowed; and waded; and pulled my canoe towards the shore。 When the goal was reached; and the boat was landed high up among the scrub growth; I shouldered my blankets and charts; and plodded through the soft soil towards the dark object; which I now recognized to be a man on a lookout post。 He did not move from his position until I reached the hillock; when he suddenly slid down the bank and landed at my feet; with a cheery
〃Well; now; I thought it was you。 Sez I to myself; That's him; sure; when I seed you four miles away。 Fust thinks I; It's only a log; or a piece of wrak…stuff afloating。 Pretty soon up comes your head and shoulders into sight; then sez I; It's a man; sure; but where is his boat? for you see; I couldn't see your boat; it was so low down in the water。 Then I reckoned it was a man afloating on a log; but arter a while the boat loomed up too; and I says; I'll be dog…goned if that isn't him。 I went up to Newbern; some time ago; in the schooner; and the people there said there was a man coming down the coast a…rowing a paper boat on a bet。 The boat weighed only fifty…eight pounds; and the man had a heft of only eighty pounds。 When pa and me went up to the city agin; the folks said the man was close on to us; and this time they said the man and his boat together weighed only eighty pounds。 Now I should think you weighed more than that yourself; letting alone the boat。〃
Having assured the young man that I was indeed myself; and that the Newbern people had played upon his credulity; we walked on to the house; where the family of Captain James Mason kindly welcomed me to a glowing wood…fire and hearty supper。 Though I had never heard of their existence till I entered Core Sound; the kindness of these people was like that of old friends。
Half a mile below Captain Mason's home; a short time before my visit; a new breach had been made by the ocean through the beach。 About twenty years before a similar breach had occurred in the same locality; and was known during its short life as 〃Pillintary Inlet。〃 The next day I crossed the sound; which is here four miles in width; and coasted along to the oystermen's village of Hunting Quarters; on the mainland。 The houses were very small; but the hearts of the poor folks were very large。 They came to the water's edge and carried the canoe into the only store in the neighborhood。 Its proprietor; Mr。 William H。 Stewart; insisted upon my sharing his bachelor's quarters in an unfinished room of the storehouse。 My young host was hardly out of his teens。 In his boyish way he kindly remarked:
〃I am here all alone。 Father told me; before he died; never to let a stranger pass my door but to make him share my lodgings; humble though they are; and now; any way; you're just in time for the fun; for we are to have three weddings to…night; and all the boys and girls of the neighborhood will be at Hunting Quarters。〃
I entered a mild protest against joining in the festivities; on the plea of not having received an invitation; at which the handsome youth laughed heartily。
〃Invitation!〃 he exclaimed; 〃why; no one ever gives out invitations in Hunting Quarters。 When there is to be a 'jolliflcation' of any sort; everybody goes to the house without being asked。 You see we are all neighbors here。 Up at Newbern and at Beaufort; and other great cities; people have their ways; but here all are friends。〃
So we went to the little house in the piny forest; where two hearts were to be made one。 The only room on the first floor was crowded with people。 The minister had not arrived; and the crowd was gazing at the young groom and his pretty bride…elect as they sat in two chairs in the middle of the company; with their arms around each other; never speaking a word to any one。 The heavy weight of people began to settle the floor; and as two joists gave way I struggled to escape through an open window; thinking we would be precipitated into the cellar below。 But the good…natured company took no notice of the snapping timbers; only ejaculating; 〃She'll soon touch bottom;〃 and to my inquiries about the inconvenience of being pitched through to the cellar; a rustic youth; with great merriment depicted upon his countenance; replied:
〃Sullers; captain; why; there ain't a suller to a buildin' within thirty miles of the Quarters。 We never uses sullers hereabouts。〃
By my side was a young fisherman; who had got home from a cruise; and was overflowing with affection towards every girl present。 〃O; gals;〃 he would cry; 〃you don't know how nice I feels to get back to you once more!〃 Throwing his arms around a bright…eyed girl; who vainly tried to escape him; he said; 〃O; weary mariner; here is thy rest! No more shall he wander from thee。〃
This sentimental strain was interrupted by an old lady; who reached her arm over my shoulder to administer a rebuke。 〃Sam; ye're a fool!〃 she cried; 〃ye're beside yourself to…night; and afore this paper…canoe captain; too。 Ef I was a gal I'd drap yere society; wid yere familiar ways right in company。〃
The blow and the admonition fell harmlessly upon the head and the heart of the sailor; who replied; 〃Aunty; I knows my advantages in Hunting Quarters women is plenty; and men is few。〃
The crowd roared with laughter at this truism; but were quieted by the shout of a boy that the preacher was a…coming; whereupon the reverend gentleman elbowed his way through the guests to the quiet couple; and requested them to stand up。 A few hurried words by the clergyman; a few bashful replies from the young people; and the two were made one。 The crowd rushed outside of the house; where a general scramble took place among the boys for their girls。 Then a procession was formed; headed by the clergyman; which marched along the sandy road to another house in the woods; where the second marriage was to be celebrated。
It was amusing to see the young men dash away from the procession; to run to the village store for candy at twenty…five cents per pound; containing as much terra alba (white clay) as sugar。 With well…filled pockets they would run back to the procession and fill the girls' aprons with the sweets; soon repeating the process; and showering upon the fair ones cakes; raisins; nuts; and oranges。 The only young man who seemed to find no favor in any woman's eyes invested more capital in sweetmeats