voyage of the paper canoe-第33章
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blue…fish into deeper water； to escape cold weather。
The canoe crossed the upper ebb； and entered an area where the ebb from the opposite side of the inlet struck the first one。 While crossing the union of the two currents； a wind came in at the opening through the beach； and though not a strong one； it created a great agitation of the water。 The dangerous experience at Watchapreague Inlet had taught me that when in such a sea one must pull with all his strength； and that the increased momentum would give greater buoyancy to the shell； for while under this treatment she bounced from one irregular wave to another with a climbing action which greatly relieved my anxiety。 The danger seemed to be decreasing； and I stole a furtive glance over my shoulder at the low dunes of the beach shore which I was approaching； to see how far into the inlet the tide had dragged me。 The white water to leeward warned me of a shoal； and forced me to pull hard for the sound to escape being drawn into the breakers。 This danger was hardly passed； when suddenly the waters around me seethed and foamed； and the short waves parted and closed； as great creatures rose from the deep into the air several feet； and then fell heavily into the sea。 My tiny shell rocked and pitched about wildly as these animals appeared and disappeared； leaping from the waves all around me； diving under the boat and reappearing on the opposite side。 They lashed the current with their strong tails； and snorted or blowed most dismally。 For an instant surprise and alarm took such possession of me that not a muscle of my arms obeyed my will； and the canoe commenced to drift in the driving stream towards the open sea。 This confusion was only momentary； for as soon as I discovered that my companions were porpoises and only old acquaintances； I determined to avoid them as soon as possible。
With a quick glance at my stern range； a sandhill on the shore of the inlet； and another look over my shoulder for the sand dunes of the other side； I exerted every muscle to reach the beach； but my frisky friends were in no mood to leave me； but continued their fun with increased energy as reinforcements came up from all directions。 The faster I rowed the more they multiplied； ploughing the sea in erratic courses。 They were from five to seven feet in length； and must have weighed from two hundred to four hundred pounds each。 Though their attentions were kindly meant； their brusqueness on such an unsteady footing was unpardonable。 I most feared the strong； shooting movements of their tails in the sudden dives under my canoe； for one sportive touch of such a caudality would have rolled me over； and furnished material for a tale the very anticipation of which was unpleasant。
Crossing Hatteras Inlet （112K）
The aquatic gambols of the porpoises lasted but a few minutes after they had called in all their neighbors； and had chased me into three feet depth of water。 They then spouted a nasal farewell； which sounded more catarrhal than guitaral； and left me for the more profitable occupation of fishing in the tide…way of the inlet； while I rowed into a shallow cove； out of the ebb； to rest； and to recover from the effects of my fright。
As I pulled along the beach the tide receded so rapidly that the canoe was constantly grounding； and wading became necessary； for I could not get within several feet of the shore。 When five miles from Hatteras Inlet I espied an empty grass cabin； which the fishermen used in February while catching shad； and； as a southerly wind was now blowing from the sea； and rain was falling； it offered a night's shelter for the traveller。 This Robinson Crusoe looking structure was located upon the low land near the sound； while bleak； sharp…pointed； treeless and grassless sandhills； blown into shape by the winds； arose in the background； and cut off a view of the ocean； which； judging from the low； melancholy moaning coming over the dunes； was in a sad mood。
The canoe was hauled into the bushes and tied securely for fear a deceptive tide might bear it away。 The provisions； blankets； &c。； were moved into the grass hut； which needed repairing。 The holes in the south wall were soon thatched； and a bed easily prepared from the rushes of the marsh。 It mattered not that they were wet； for a piece of painted canvas was spread over them； and the inviting couch finished。
As fresh water can usually be obtained on all these low beaches by digging two or three feet into the sand； I looked for a large clam…shell； and my search being rewarded； I was soon engaged in digging a well near the cabin。
Upon looking up from my work a curious sight met my gaze。 In some mysterious way every sharp…pointed sand…hill had been covered by a black object； which swayed about and nodded up and down in a strange manner。 As I watched the development of this startling phenomenon； the nodding； black objects grew in size until the head； body； and four legs of a horse were clearly cut against the sky。 A little later every crest was surmounted by the comical figure of a marsh…tacky。 Then a few sheep came out of the hollows among the hills and browsed on the coarse grass near the cabin； as though they felt the loneliness of their situation so far removed from mankind。 With the marsh…ponies； the sheep； the wild…fowls of the sound； and the sighing sea for companions； the night passed away。
The bright moonlight roused me at five o'clock in the morning； and I pushed off again in shoal water on an ebb…tide； experiencing much difficulty in dragging the canoe over shallow places until deep water was entered； when the row to Ocracoke became an agreeable one。 The landing…place at Ocracoke； not far from the lighthouse； was reached at noon； and the people gathered to see the paper boat； having been notified of my proximity by fishermen。
The women here can pull a pretty good stroke； and frequently assist their husbands in the fisheries。 These old dames ridiculed the idea of having a boat so small and light as the canoe。 One old lady laid aside her pipe and snuff…paddle （snuff…rubbing is a time…honored institution in the south）； and roughly grasping the bow of the craft； lifted it high in the air； then； glancing at the fine model； she lowered it slowly to the ground； exclaiming； 〃I reckon I wouldn't risk my life acrossing a creek in her。〃
These people told me that the yacht Julia had stopped there to make inquiries for me； and had departed for Newbern。
It was more than a mile from the landing to Ocracoke Inlet； and a mile and three quarters across it to the beach。 A straight course from the landing to the village of Portsmouth； on the lower side of the inlet； was a distance of five miles； and not one of the hardy watermen； who thumped the sides of my boat with their hard fists to ascertain its strength； believed that I could cross the sound to the other village without rolling over。 One kind…hearted oysterman offered to carry myself and boat to Portsmouth； but as the day was calm； I rowed away on the five…mile stretch amid doleful prognostications； such as： 〃That feller will make a coffin for hisself out of that yere gimcrack of an egg…shell。 It's all a man's life is wurth to go in her；〃 &c。
While approaching the low Portsmouth shore of the sound； flocks of Canada geese flew within pistol…shot of my head。 A man in a dug…out canoe told me that the gunners of the village had reared from the egg a flock of wild geese which now aggregated some seven or eight hundred birds； and that these now flying about were used to decoy their wild relatives。
Near the beach a sandy hill had been the place of sepulture for the inhabitants of other generations； but for years past the tidal current had been cutting the shore away until coffin after coffin with its contents had been washed into the sound。 Captain Isaac S。 Jennings； of Ocean County； New Jersey； had described this spot to me as follows：
〃I landed at Portsmouth and examined this curious burial…ground。 Here by the water were the remains of the fathers； mothers； brothers； and sisters of the people of the village so near at hand； yet these dismal relics of their ancestors were allowed to be stolen away piecemeal by th
