voyage of the paper canoe-第32章
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I found Mr。 W。 R。 Jennett and his first assistant light…keeper； Mr。 A。 W。 Simpson； intelligent gentlemen。 The assistant has devoted his time； when off duty； to the study of the habits of food…fishes of the sound； and has furnished the United States Commission of Fisheries with several papers on that interesting subject。
Here also was Mr。 George Onslow； of the United States Signal Service； who had completed his work of constructing a telegraph line from Norfolk along the beach southward to this point； its present terminus。 With a fine telescope he could frequently identify vessels a few miles from the cape； and telegraph their position to New York。 He had lately saved a vessel by telegraphing to Norfolk its dangerous location on Hatteras beach； where it had grounded。 By this timely notice a wrecking…steamer had arrived and hauled the schooner off in good condition。
A low range of hills commences at Cape Hatteras； in the rear of the light…house； and extends nearly to Hatteras Inlet。 This range is heavily wooded with live…oaks； yellow pines； yaupons； cedars； and bayonet…plants。 The fishermen and wreckers live in rudely constructed houses； sheltered by this thicket； which is dense enough to
protect them from the strong winds that blow from the ocean and the sound。
I walked twelve miles through this pretty； green retreat； and spent Sunday with Mr。 Homer W。 Styron； who keeps a small store about two miles from the inlet。 He is a self…taught astronomer； and used an ingeniously constructed telescope of his own manufacture for studying the heavens。
I found at the post…office in his store a letter from a yachting party which had left Newbern； North Carolina； to capture the paper canoe and to force upon its captain the hospitality of the people of that city； on the Neuse River； one hundred miles from the cape。 Judge I。E。 West； the owner of the yacht 〃Julia；〃 and his friends； had been cruising since the eleventh day of the month from Ocracoke Inlet to Roanoke Island in search of me。 Judge West； in his letter； expressed a strong desire to have me take my Christmas dinner with his family。 This generous treatment from a stranger was fully appreciated； and I determined to push on to Morehead City； from which place it would be convenient to reach Newbern by rail without changing my established route southward； as I would be compelled to do if the regular water route of the Neuse River from Pamlico Sound were followed。
On this Saturday night； spent at Hatteras Inlet； there broke upon us one of the fiercest tempests I ever witnessed； even in the tropics。 My pedestrian tramp down the shore had scarcely ended when it commenced in reality。 For miles along the beach thousands of acres of land were soon submerged by the sea and by the torrents of water which fell from the clouds。 While for a moment the night was dark as Erebus； again the vivid flash of lightning exposed to view the swaying forests and the gloomy sound。 The sea pounded on the beach as if asking for admission to old Pamplico。 It seemed to say； I demand a new inlet； and； as though trying to carry out its desire； sent great waves rolling up the shingle and over into the hollows among the hills； washing down the low sand dunes as if they also were in collusion with it to remove this frail barrier； this narrow strip of low land which separated the Atlantic from the wide interior sheet of water。
The phosphorescent sea； covered with its tens of millions of animalcula； each one a miniature light…house； changed in color from inky blackness to silver sheen。 Will the ocean take to itself this frail foothold？ we queried。 Will it ingulf us in its insatiable maw； as the whale did Jonah？ There was no subsidence； no pause in the storm。 It howled； bellowed； and screeched like a legion of demons； so that the crashing of falling trees； and the twisting of the sturdy live oak's toughest limbs； could hardly be heard in the din。 Yet during this wild night my storm…hardened companion sat with his pretty wife by the open fireplace； as unmoved as though we were in the shelter of a mountain side； while he calmly discoursed of storms； shipwrecks； and terrible struggles for life that this lonely coast had witnessed； which sent thrills of horror to my heart。
While traversing the beach during the afternoon； as wreck after wreck； the gravestones of departed ships； projected their timbers from the sands； I had made a calculation of the number of vessels which had left their hulls to rot on Hatteras beach since the ships of Sir Walter Raleigh had anchored above the cape； and it resulted in making one continuous line of vessels； wreck touching wreck； along the coast for many； many miles。 Hundreds of miles of the Atlantic coast beaches would have been walled in by the wrecks could they have come on to the strand at one time； and all the dwellers along the coast； outside of the towns； would have been placed in independent circumstances by wrecking their cargoes。
During this wild night； while the paper canoe was safely stowed in the rushes of the marsh at the cape； and its owner was enjoying the warmth of the young astronomer's fire at the inlet； less than twenty miles from us； on the dangerous edge of Ocracoke shoals； the searching party of the yacht Julia were in momentary expectation of going to the bottom of the sound。 For hours the gallant craft hung to her anchors； which were heavily backed by all the iron ballast that could be attached to the cables。 Wave after wave swept over her； and not a man could put his head above the hatches。 Then； as she rolled in the sea； her cabin…windows went under； and streams of water were forced through the ports into the confined space which was occupied by the little party。 For a time they were in imminent danger； for the vessel dragged anchor to the edge of the shoal； and with a heavy thud the yacht struck on the bottom。 All hopes of ever returning to Newbern were lost； when the changing tide swung the boat off into deeper water； where she rode out the storm in safety。
Before morning the wind shifted； and by nine o'clock I retraced my steps to the cape； and on Tuesday rowed down to Hatteras Inlet； which was reached a little past noon。 Before attempting to cross this dangerous tidal gate…way of the ocean I hugged the shore close to its edge； and paused to make myself familiar with the sandhills of the opposite side； a mile away； which were to serve as the guiding…beacons in the passage。 How often had I； lying awake at night； thought of and dreaded the crossing of this ill…omened inlet！ It had given me much mental suffering。 Now it was before me。 Here on my right was the great sound； on my left the narrow beach island； and out through the portal of the open inlet surged and moaned under a leaden sky that old ocean which now seemed to frown at me； and to say： 〃Wait； my boy； until the inlet's waves deliver you to me； and I will put you among my other victims for your temerity。〃
As I gazed across the current I remarked that it did not seem very rough； though a strong ebb was running out to the sea； and if crossed immediately； before the wind arose； there could be no unreasonable risk。 My canvas deck…cover was carefully pulled close about my waist； and a rigid inspection of oars and row…locks was made； then； with a desire to reserve my strength for any great demand that might be made upon it a little later； I rowed with a steady stroke out into Hatteras Inlet。 There was no help nearer than Styron's； two miles away on the upper shore； while the beach I was approaching on the other side was uninhabited for nearly sixteen miles； to the village at its southern end； near Ocracoke Inlet。 Upon entering the swash I thought of the sharks which the Hatteras fishermen had told me frequently seized their oars； snapping the thin blades in pieces； assuring me； at the same time； that mine would prove very attractive； being so white and glimmering in the water； and offering the same glittering fascination as a silver…spoon bait does to a blue…fish。 These cheerful suggestions caused a peculiar creeping sensation to come over me； but I tried to quiet myself with the belief that the sharks had followed the blue…fish into deepe
