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voyage of the paper canoe-第31章

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 concerning Kitty Midget。  She must; however; have lived somewhere on Clark's Beach long before the present proprietor was born。  We spent the next day fishing with nets in the surf for blue…fish; it being about the last day of their stay in that vicinity。  They go south as far as Cape Hatteras; and then disappear in deep water; while the great flocks of gulls; that  accompany them to gather the remnants of fish they scatter in their savage meals; rise in the air and fly rapidly away in search of other dainties。

On Thursday I set out for Cape Hatteras。 The old sailor's song; that …


                〃Hatteras has a blow in store                 For those who pass her howling door;〃


has far more truth than poetry in it。  Before  proceeding far the wind blew a tempest; when a young fisherman in his sailboat bore down upon me; and begged me to come on board。  We  attempted to tow the canoe astern; but she filled with water; which obliged us to take her on board。  As we flew along before the wind; dashing over the shoals with mad…cap temerity; I discovered that my new acquaintance; Burnett; was a most daring as well as reckless sailor。 He told me how he had capsized his father's schooner by carrying sail too long。  〃This 'ere slow way of doing things〃 he detested。  His recital was characteristic of the man。

〃You see; sir; we was bound for Newbern up the Neuse River; and as we were well into the sound with all sail set; and travelling along lively; daddy says;  'Lorenzo; I reckon a little yaupon wouldn't hurt me; so I'll go below and start a firs under the kittle。'  Do as you likes; daddy;' sez I。  So down below he goes; and I takes command of the schooner。  A big black squall soon come over Cape Hatteras from the Gulf Stream; and it did look like a screecher。 Now; I thought; old woman; I'll make your sides ache; so I pinted her at it; and afore I could luff her up in the wind; the squall kreened her on to her beam…ends。 You'd a laughed to have split yourself; mister; if you could have seen daddy a…crawling out of the companion…way while the water was a…running down stairs like a crick。 Says he; ruther hurriedly; 'Sonny; what's up?' It isn't what's up; daddy; but what's down;' sez I; it sort o' looks as if we had capsized。' Sure 'nuff;' answered dad; as the ballast shifted and the schooner rolled over keel uppermost。 We floundered about like porpoises; but managed to get astride her backbone; when dad looked kind of scornfully at me; and burst out with; 'Sonny; do you call yourself a keerful sailor?' 'Keerful enough; dad;' sez I; 'for a smart one。 It's more credit to a man to drive his vessel like a sailor; than to be crawling and bobbing along like a diamond…backed terrapin。'  Now; stranger; if you'll believe me; that keerful old father of mine would never let me take the helum again; so I sticks to my aunt at the cape。〃

I found that the boat in which we were sailing was a dug…out; made from two immense cypress logs。  Larger boats than this are made of three logs; and smaller ones are dug out of one。

Burnett told me that frame boats were so easily pounded to pieces on the shoals; that dug…outs were preferred  being very durable。  We soon passed the hamlet of North Kinnakeet; then Scarsborough with its low houses; then South Kinnakeet with its two wind…mills; and after these arose a sterile; bald beach with Hatteras light…tower piercing the sky; and west of it  Hatteras woods and marshes。  We approached the low shore and ascended a little creek; where we left our boats; and repaired to the cottage of Burnett's aunt。

After the barren shores I had passed; this little house; imbedded in living green; was like a bright star in a dark night。  It was hidden away in a heavy thicket of live…oaks and cedars; and surrounded by yaupons; the bright red  berries of which glistened against the light green leaves。  An old woman stood in the doorway with a kindly greeting for her 〃wild boy;〃  rejoicing the while that he had 〃got back to his old aunty once more。〃

〃Yes; aunty;〃 said my friend Lorenzo; 〃I am back again like a bad penny; but not  empty…handed; for as soon as our season's catch of blue…fish is sold; old aunty will have sixty or seventy dollars。〃

〃He has a good heart; if he is so head…strong;〃 whispered the motherly woman; as she wiped a tear from her eyes; and gazed with pride upon the manly…looking young fellow; and  invited us in to tea  YAUPON。




CHAPTER X。  FROM CAPE HATTERAS TO CAPE FEAR; NORTH CAROLINA。



CAPE HATTERAS LIGHT。  HABITS OF BIRDS。  STORM AT  HATTERAS INLET  MILES OF WRECKS。  THE  YACHT JULIA SEARCHING FOR THE PAPER CANOE。  CHASED BY PORPOISES。  MARSH TACKIES。  OCRACOKE INLET。  A GRAVE…YARD  BEING SWALLOWED UP BY THE SEA。  CORE SOUND。  THREE WEDDINGS AT HUNTING QUARTERS。  MOREHEAD CITY。  NEWBERN。  SWANSBORO。  A PEA…NUT PLANTATION。  THE ROUTE TO CAPE FEAR。


Cape Hatteras is the apex of a  triangle。  It is the easternmost part of the state of North Carolina; and it extends farther into the ocean than any Atlantic cape of the United States。  It presents a low; broad; sandy point to the sea; and for several miles beyond it; in the ocean; are the dangerous Diamond Shoals; the dread of the mariner。

The Gulf Stream; with its river…like current of water flowing northward from the Gulf of Mexico; in its oscillations from east to west  frequently approaches to within eighteen or twenty miles of the cape; filling a large area of  atmosphere with its warmth; and causing frequent local disturbances。  The weather never remains long in a settled state。  As most vessels try to make Hatteras Light; to ascertain their true  position; &c。; and because it juts out so far into the Atlantic; the locality has become the scene of many wrecks; and the beach; from the cape down to Hatteras Inlet; fourteen miles; is strewn with the fragments of vessels。

The coast runs north and south above; and east and west south of the cape。  The old light house had been replaced by the finest light…tower I had ever examined; which was completed in 1870。  It is one hundred and ninety feet in height; and shows a white; revolving light。

Body Island Light; though forty feet less in elevation; is frequently seen by the Hatteras light…keeper; while the splendid Hatteras Light had been seen but once by Captain Hatzel; of Body Island。  One nautical mile south of  Hatteras Light is a small beacon light…tower; which is of great service to the coasting…vessels that pass it in following the eighteen…feet curve of the cape two miles from the land inside of  Diamond Shoals。

While speaking of light…houses; it may be interesting to naturalists who live far inland to know that while (as they are well aware)  thousands of birds are killed annually during their flights by striking against telegraphic wires; many wild…fowls are also destroyed by dashing against the lanterns of the light… towers during the night。  While at Body Island Beach; Captain Hatzel remarked to me that; during the first winter after the new light…tower was completed; the snow…geese; which winter on the island; would frequently at night strike the thick glass panes of the chamber; and fall senseless upon the floor of the gallery。  The second season they did not in a single instance repeat the mistake; but had seemingly become educated to the character of the danger。

I have seen one lantern damaged to the amount of five hundred dollars; by a goose breaking a pane of glass and striking heavily upon the costly lens which surrounds the lamp。 Light…keepers sometimes sit upon the gallery; and; looking along the pathway of light which shoots into the outer darkness over their heads; will see a few dark specks approaching them in this beam of radiance。  These specks are birds; confused by the bright rays; and ready to fall an easy prey to the eager keeper; who; quickly  levelling his double…barrelled gun; brings it to bear upon the opaque; moving cloud; and with the discharge of the weapon there goes whirling through space to the earth below his next  morning's breakfast of wild…fowl。

I found Mr。 W。 R。 Jennett and his first  assistant light…keeper; Mr。 A。 W。 Simpson; intelligent gentlemen。  The assistant has devoted his time; when off duty; to the study of the

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