voyage of the paper canoe-第29章
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The beach from Nag's Head to Oregon Inlet is destitute of trees； and the wind sweeps across it； from the ocean to the sound； with great violence； forcing the shallow waters to retire； and leaving the bottom dry as far out as three miles。
The next day was very windy； and the long； finger…like； sandy shoals； which extended one or two miles out into the sound； were covered with only from three to eight inches of water。 I could not hug the beach for protection； but was forced to keep far out in the sound。 Frequently it became necessary to get overboard and wade； pushing my boat before me。 Then a deep channel between the shoals would be crossed； so； by walking and rowing in Roanoke Sound； with the wind blowing the water over the canoe and drenching its captain； the roundabout twelve miles' passage to Oregon Inlet was at last accomplished； and a most trying one it was。
Body Island Lighthouse was erected in 1872； on the north side of Oregon Inlet； to take the place of the old tower on the south shore。 It is in latitude 35 deg 48'； and longitude 75 deg 33'。 Captain William F。 Hatzel； a loyal North Carolinian； is the principal keeper； and a most efficient one he is。
The temperature was falling rapidly when I crawled into the high rushes of the wet marsh near the light…house to seek shelter from the strong wind that was blowing。 As this treeless beach was destitute of fire…wood； or natural shelter of any kind； necessity compelled me to have recourse to other means for procuring them。 I carried in my pocket a talisman which must open any light…keeper's door； from Maine to the Rio Grande； from Southern California to Alaska； even to the vicinity of the Arctic Circle； the Lighthouse Establishment of the United States has planted a tower or erected a light。 While shivering in wet clothes on this desolate beach； most thankfully did I remember that kind and thoughtful friend； who through his potent influence had supplied me with this open sesame to lightkeepers。
There resides in Washington； when not engaged elsewhere in the important duties of the Commission of Fisheries； a genial gentleman； an ardent naturalist； a great scientist。 To him the young naturalists of America turn for information and advice； and to the humblest applicant Professor Spencer F。 Baird never turns a deaf ear。 How this distinguished author can attend to so many and such varied duties with his laborious investigations； and can so successfully keep up a large correspondence with perhaps one thousand scientific associations of nearly every nation of the universe； is a difficult thing to imagine； but the popular and much beloved Assistant Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution； seemingly ubiquitous in his busy life； does all this and much more。 America may well feel proud of this man of noble nature； shedding light and truth wheresoever he moves； encouraging alike old and young with his kindly sympathy； now taking his precious moments to answer with his own busy hand the question in the letter of some boy naturalist about beasts； birds； reptiles； or fishes； with which epistles his desk is always covered； now stimulating to further effort the old man of science as he struggles with the cares of this world； striving； sometimes vainly； save for this ever ready aid； to work out patiently theories which are soon to blaze forth as substantial facts。 The young generation of naturalists； which is soon to fill the place of their predecessors； have in this man the type of all they need ever strive to attain。 How many； alas； will fall far short of it！
Since boyhood the counsels of this friend had guided me on many a journey of exploration。 He had not deserted me even in this experiment； which my friends called 〃your wildest and most foolish undertaking。〃 He had obtained from the Light House Board a general letter to the lightkeepers of the United States； signed by the naval secretary； Mr。 Walker； in which the keepers were authorized to grant me shelter； &c。； when necessary。 I did not have occasion to use this letter more than twice during my journey。 Having secreted my canoe in the coarse grass of the lowland； I trudged； with my letter in hand； over the sands to the house of the light…keeper； Captain Hatzel； who received me cordially； and after recording in his log…book the circumstances and date of my arrival； conducted me into a comfortable room； which was warmed by a cheerful fire； and lighted up by the smiles of his most orderly wife。 Everything showed discipline and neatness； both in the house and the light…tower。 The whitest of cloths was spread upon the table； and covered with a well…cooked meal； then the father； mother； and two sons； with the stranger within their gates； thanked the Giver of good gifts for his mercies。
Joining the night…watch of the chief lightkeeper； I also joined in the good man's enthusiasm for his wonderful 〃fixed white light；〃 the bright beams of which poured out upon the surrounding waters a flood if brilliancy； gladdening hearts far out at sea； even though twenty miles away； and plainly saying； 〃This is Body Island Beach： keep off！〃 How grand it was to walk out on this gallery in the sky！ Looking eastward； a limitless expanse of ocean； gazing westward； the waters of the great sound； the shores of which were low marshes miles away。 Below me could be heard the soft cackle of the snow…goose （Anser hyperboreus）； which had left its nesting…place on the barren grounds of arctic America； and was now feeding contentedly in its winter home in the shallow salt…ponds； which the gentle shur…r…r… of the waves softly broke on the strand。 Above； the star…lit heavens； whose tender beauty seemed almost within my grasp。 Perched thus upon a single shaft； on a narrow strip of sand far out in the great water； the many thoughts born of solitude crowded my mind； when my reverie was abruptly broken by an exclamation from Captain Hatzel； who threw open the door； and exclaimed； with beaming eyes peering into the darkness as he spoke； 〃I see it！ Yes； it is！ Hatteras Light； thirty…five miles away。 This night； December 13th； is the first time I have caught its flash。 Tell it to the Hatteras keeper when you visit the cape。〃
From Captain Hatzel I gleaned some facts of deep interest in regard to the inhabitants of the sound。 Some of them； he told me； had Indian blood in their veins； and to prove the truth of his assertion he handed me a well…worn copy of the 〃History of North Carolina；〃 by Dr。 Francis L。 Hawks； D。 D。 From this I obtained facts which might serve for the intricate mazes of a romance。 It had been a pet scheme with Sir Walter Raleigh to colonize the coast of North Carolina； then known as Virginia； and though several expeditions had been sent out for that object； each had failed of successful issue。 One of these expeditions sent by Sir Walter to Roanoke Island consisted of one hundred and twenty…one persons； of whom seventeen were women and six children。 Of all these souls only two men returned to the old country； the fate of the remainder being unknown； and shrouded in the gloom which always attends mystery。 England did not； however； leave her children to perish on a barren shore in the new land without at least an effort to succor them。
On March 20； in the year 1590； there sailed from Plymouth three ships； the Hopewell； John Evangelist； and Little John； taking in tow two shallops which were afterwards lost at sea。 In these days the largest vessels of a fleet did not exceed one hundred to one hundred and forty tons burden。 This expedition was under the charge of Admiral John White； governor of the colony of Sir Walter Raleigh on Roanoke Island； and who had left the feeble band on the island in 1587。 In thirty…six days and eight hours these small vessels arrived off 〃Hatorask〃 Hatteras Beach。 The fleet dropped anchor three leagues off the beach； and sent a well…manned boat through an inlet to Pamplico Sound。
There existed in those days passages from the ocean through the beaches into the sounds； which have since been filled up by the action of the sea。 Old Roanoke Inlet； now closed； which was about four miles north of the modern Oregon Inlet； is supposed to be the one used by Sir Walter Rale
