voyage of the paper canoe-第25章
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that my craft drew only five inches of water。
Cat Creek took me quite down to the beach； where； through an inlet； the dark…blue ocean； sparkling in its white caps； came pleasantly into view。 Another inlet was to be crossed； and again I was favored with smooth water。 This was Assawaman Inlet； which divided the beach into two islands Wallops on the north； and Assawaman on the south。
It seemed a singular fact that the two Assawaman bays are forty…five miles to the north of an inlet of the same name。 In following the creeks through the marshes between Assawaman Island and the mainland； I crossed another shoal bay； and another inlet opened in the beach； through which the ocean was again seen。 This last was Gargathy Inlet。 Before reaching it； as night was coming on； I turned up a thoroughfare and rowed some distance to the mainland； where I found lodgings with a hospitable farmer； Mr。 Martin R。 Kelly。 At daybreak I crossed Gargathy Inlet。
It was now Saturday； November 28； and being encouraged by the successful crossing of the inlets in my tiny craft； I pushed on to try the less inviting one at the end of Matomkin Island。 Fine weather favored me； and I pushed across the strong tide that swept through this inlet without shipping a sea。 Assawaman and Gargathy are constantly shifting their channels。 At times there will be six feet of water； and again they will shoal to two feet。 Matomkin； also； is not to be relied on。 Every northeaster will shift a buoy placed in the channels of these three inlets； so they are not buoyed。
Watchapreague Inlet； to the south of the three last named； is less changeable in character； and is also a much more dangerous inlet to cross in rough weather。 From Matoinkin Inlet the interior thoroughfares were followed inside of Cedar Island； when darkness forced me to seek shelter with Captain William F。 Burton； whose comfortable home was on the shore of the mainland； about five miles from Watchapreague Inlet。 Here I was kindly invited to spend Sunday。 Captain Burton told me much of interest； and among other things mentioned the fact that during one August； a few years before my visit； a large lobster was taken on a fish…hook in Watchapreague Inlet； and that a smaller one was captured in the same manner during the summer of 1874。
Monday was a gusty day。 My canoe scraped its keel upon the shoals as I dodged the broken oyster reefs； called here 〃oyster rocks；〃 while on the passage down to Watchapreague Inlet。 The tide was very low； but the water deepened as the beach was approached。 A northeaster was blowing freshly； and I was looking for a lee under the beach； when suddenly the canoe shot around a sandy point； and was tugging for life in the rough waters of the inlet。 The tide was running in from the sea with the force of a rapid； and the short； quick puffs of wind tossed the waves wildly。 It was useless to attempt to turn the canoe back to the beach in such rough water； but； intent on keeping the boat above the caps； I gave her all the momentum that muscular power could exert； as she was headed for the southern point of the beach； across the dangerous inlet。
Though it was only half a mile across； the passage of Watchapreague taxed me severely。 Waves washed over my canoe； but the gallant little craft after each rebuff rose like a bird to the surface of the water； answering the slightest touch of my oar better than the best…trained steed。 After entering the south…side swash； the wind struck me on the back； and seas came tumbling over and around the boat； fairly forcing me on to the beach。 As we flew along； the tumultuous waters made my head swim； so； to prevent mental confusion； I kept my eyes only upon the oars； which； strange to say； never betrayed me into a false stroke。
As a heavy blast beat down the raging sea for a moment； I looked over my shoulder and beheld the low； sandy dunes of the southern shore of the inlet close at hand； and with a severe jolt the canoe grounded high on the strand。 I leaped out and drew my precious craft away from the tide； breathing a prayer of thankfulness for my escape from danger； and mentally vowing that the canoe should cross all other treacherous inlets in a fisherman's sloop。 I went into camp in a hollow of the beach； where the sand…hills protected me from the piercing wind。 All that afternoon I watched from my burrow in the ground the raging of the elements； and towards evening was pleased to note a general subsidence of wind and sea。
The canoe was again put into the water and the thoroughfare followed southward for a mile or two； when the short day ended； leaving me beside a marshy island； which was fringed with an oyster…bed of sharp…beaked bivalves。 Stepping overboard in the mud and water； the oars and paddle were laid upon the shell reef to protect the canoe； which was dragged on to the marsh。 It grew colder as the wind died out。 The marsh was wet； and no fire…wood could be found。 The canvas cover was removed； the cargo was piled up on a platform of oars and shells to secure it from the next tide； and then I slowly and laboriously packed myself away in the narrow shell for the night。 The canvas deck…cover was buttoned in its place； a rubber blanket covered the cockpit； and I tried to sleep and dream that I was not a sardine； nor securely confined in some inhospitable vault。 It was impossible to turn over without unbuttoning one side of the deck…cover and going through contortions that would have done credit to a first…class acrobat。 For the first time in my life I found it necessary to get out of bed in order to turn over in it。
At midnight； mallards （Anas boschas） came close to the marsh。 The soft whagh of the drake； which is not in this species blessed with the loud quack of the female bird； sufficiently established the identity of the duck。 Then muskrats； and the oyster…eating coon； came round； no doubt scenting my provisions。 Brisk raps from my knuckles on the inside shell of the canoe astonished these animals and aroused their curiosity； for they annoyed me until daybreak。
When I emerged from my narrow bed； the frosty air struck my cheeks； and the cold； wet marsh chilled my feet。 It was the delay at Watchapreague Inlet that had lodged me on this inhospitable marsh； so； trying to exercise my poor stock of patience； I completed my toilet； shaking in my wet shoes。 The icy water； into which I stepped ankle…deep in order to launch my canoe； reminded me that this wintry morning was in fact the first day of December； and that stormy Hatteras； south of which was to be found a milder climate； was still a long way off。
The brisk row along Paramore's Island （called Palmer's by the natives） to the wide； bay…like entrance of Little Machipongo Inlet； restored warmth to my benumbed limbs。 This wide doorway of the ocean permitted me to cross its west portal in peace； for the day was calm。 From Little to Great Machipongo Inlet the beach is called Hog Island。 The inside thoroughfare is bounded on the west by Rogue's Island； out of the flats of which rose a solitary house。 At the southern end of Hog Island there is a small store on a creek； and near the beach a light…house； while a little inland is located； within a forest of pines； a small settlement。
At noon； Great Machipongo Inlet was crossed without danger； and Cobb's Island was skirted several miles to Sand Shoal Inlet； near which the hotel of the three Cobb brothers rose cheerfully out of the dreary waste of sands and marshes。 The father of the present proprietors came to this island more than thirty years ago； and took possession of this domain； which had been thrown up by the action of the ocean's waves。 He refused an offer of one hundred thousand dollars for the island。 The locality is one of the best on this coast for wild…fowl shooting。 Sand Shoal Inlet； at the southern end of Cobb's Island； has a depth of twelve feet of water on its bar at low tide。
In company with the regular row…boat ferry I crossed； the next day； the broad bay to the mainland eight miles distant； where the canoe was put upon a cart and taken across the peninsula five miles to Cherrystone； the only point near Cape Charles at which a Norfolk steamer stopped for passengers。
