voyage of the paper canoe-第24章
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of a farm tenant to obtain food。 These two birds nested in the garden close to the house； and reared a fine brood of young； but the whole covey wandered away； and were afterwards heard from but once。 They had crossed to the opposite side of Newport Creek； and were probably shot by gunners。
The prairie…chickens adapted themselves to their new home in a satisfactory manner； and became very tame。 Their nests； well filled with eggs； were found along the rail…fences of the fields in the close vicinity of the marshes； for which level tracts they seemed to have strong attachment。 They multiplied rapidly； and visited the cattle…pens and barn…yards of the plantation。
The Maryland legislature passed a law to protect all grouse introduced into the state； but a new danger threatened these unfortunate birds。 A crew of New Jersey terrapin…hunters entered Chincoteague Inlet； and searched the ditches and little creeks of the salt…marshes for the 〃diamondbacks。〃 While thus engaged； the gentle grouse； feeding quietly in the vicinity； attracted their attention； and they at once bagged most of them。 A tenant on the estate informed me that he had seen eighteen birds in a cornfield a few days before the remnant of the stock。
The Ruffled Grouse （Bonasa umbellas）； so abundant in New Jersey； is not a resident of the peninsula。 Dr。 Purnell's first experiment with the Pinnated Grouse （Cupidonia cupido） has encouraged others to bring the ruffled grouse to the eastern shore of Maryland。 That unapproachable songster of the south； the American Mocking…bird （Mimus polyglottus）； is becoming scarce in this region； from the inroads made by bird…catchers who ship the young to northern cities。 This delightful chorister is only an accidental visitor in the New England states。 Indeed as far south as Ocean County； New Jersey； I saw but one of these birds； in a residence of nine years on my cranberry plantations； though I have heard that their nests are occasionally found about Cape May； at the extreme southern end of New Jersey。
My time being limited； I could enjoy the doctor's hospitality for but one night。 The next morning the whole family； with tenants both black and white； assisted me to embark。 By dusk I had crossed the division line of two states； and had entered Virginia near the head of Chincoteague Island； a locality of peculiar interest to the student of American character。 The ebb…tide had left but little water around the rough pier abreast of the town； and heaps of oyster…shells rose from the mud flats and threatened the safety of my canoe。 I looked up through the darkness to the light pier…head above me； and called for assistance。 Two men leaned over to inquire； 〃What's the row now； stranger？ 〃 To which I replied； 〃I wish to land a light boat on your pier； and as it is made of paper； it should be carefully handled。〃 For a moment the oystermen observed a silence； and then； without one word of explanation； disappeared。 I heard their heavy boots tramping up the quay towards the tavern。 Soon a low murmur arose on the night air； then hoarse shouts； and there came thundering down the wharf an army of men and boys。 〃Pass her up； stranger！〃 they cried。 〃Here； give us your bow and starn painters； and jest step overboard yourself； and we'll hist her up。〃 Some of the motley crew caught me by the shoulders； others 〃histed away；〃 and the canoe and its captain were laid roughly upon the ground。
There was a rush to feel of the paper shell。 Many were convinced that there was no humbug about it； so； with a great shout； some of the men tossed it upon their shoulders； while the rest seized upon the miscellaneous cargo； and a rush was made for the hotel； leaving me to follow at discretion and alone。 The procession burst open the doors of the tavern； and poured through the entrance to a court…yard； where they laid the boat upon a long table under a shed； and thought they had earned 〃drinks。〃 This was the spontaneous way in which the Chincoteague people welcomed me。 〃If you don't drink； stranger； up your way； what on airth keeps your buddies and soulds together？〃 queried a tall oysterman。 A lady had kindly presented me with a peck of fine apples that very morning； so； in lieu of 〃drinks；〃 I distributed the fruit among them。 They joked and questioned me； and all were merry save one bilious…looking individual； not dressed； like the others； in an oysterman's garb； but wearing； to use a term of the place； 〃store clothes。〃
After the crowd had settled in the bar…room； at cards； &c。； this doubting Thomas remained beside the boat； carefully examining her。 Soon he was scraping her hull below the gunwale； where the muddy water of the bay had left a thin coat of sediment which was now dry。 The man's countenance lighted up as he pulled the bartender aside and said； 〃Look ahere； I tell you that boat looked as if she was made to carry on a deck of a vessel； and to be a…shoved off into the water at night jest abreast of a town to make fools of folks； and git them to believe that that fellow had a…rowed all the way ahere？ Now see； here is dust； dry dust on her hull。 She ahain't ben in the water mor'n ten minutes； I sware；〃 It required but a moment's investigation of my Chincoteague audience to discover that the dust was mud from the tide； and the doubter brought down the ridicule of his more discriminating neighbors upon him； and slunk away amid their jeers。
Of all this community of watermen but one could be found that night who had threaded the interior watercourses as far as Cape Charles； and he was the youngest of the lot。 Taking out my note…book； I jotted down his amusing directions。 〃Look out for Cat Creek below Four Mouths；〃 he said； 〃you'll catch it round there。〃 〃Yes；〃 broke in several voices； 〃Cat Creek's an awful place unless you run through on a full ebb…tide。 Oyster boats always has a time a…shoving through Cat Creek；〃 &c。
After the council with my Chincoteague friends had ended； the route to be travelled the next day was in my mental vision 〃as clear as mud。〃 The inhabitants of this island are not all oystermen； for many find occupation and profit in raising ponies upon the beach of Assateague； where the wild； coarse grass furnishes them a livelihood。 These hardy little animals are called 〃Marsh Tackies；〃 and are found at intervals along the beaches down to the sea…islands of the Carolinas。 They hold at Chincoteague an annual fair； to which all the 〃pony…penners；〃 as they are called； bring their surplus animals to sell。 The average price is about ninety dollars for a good beast； though some have sold for two hundred and fifty dollars。 All these horses are sold in a semi…wild and unbroken state。
The following morning Mr。 J。 L。 Caulk； ex…collector of the oyster port； and about fifty persons； escorted me to the landing； and sent me away with a hearty 〃Good luck to ye。〃
It was three miles and three quarters to the southern end of the island； which has an inlet from the ocean upon each side of that end the northern one being Assateague； the southern one Chincoteague Inlet。 Fortunately； I crossed the latter in smooth water to Ballast Narrows in the marshes； and soon reached Four Mouths； where I found five mouths of thoroughfares； and became perplexed； for had not the pilots of Chincoteague called this interesting display of mouths 〃Four Mouths〃？ I clung to the authority of local knowledge； however； and was soon in a labyrinth of creeks which ended in the marshes near the beach。
Returning over the course； I once more faced the four； or five mouths rather； and taking a new departure by entering the next mouth to the one I had so unsatisfactorily explored； soon entered Rogue's Bay； across which could be seen the entrance to Cat Creek； where I was to experience the difficulties predicted by my Chincoteague friends。 Cat Creek furnished at half tide sufficient water for my canoe； and not the slightest difficulty was experienced in getting through it。 The oystermen had in their minds their own sloop…rigged oyster…boats when they discoursed to me about the hard passage of Cat Creek。 They had not considered the fact that my craft drew only five inches of water。
Cat Creek took me quite down to the beach； where； t
