voyage of the paper canoe-第22章
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ls and fever are the bane of the southern and middle states； as this disease affects the health and elastic vigor of the constitution； and also produces great mental depression。 Yet those who suffer； even on every alternate day； from chills； seem to accept the malaria as nothing of much importance； though it is a well…known fact that this form of intermittent fever so reduces the strength； that the system is unable to cope with other and more dangerous diseases for which it paves the way。
Upon a little creek； tributary to St。 Martin's River； and near its confluence with the Isle of Wight Bay； a long day's pull from the swamp of Love Creek； was the old plantation home of a friend of my boyhood； Mr。 Taylor； who about this time was looking out for the arrival of the paper canoe。 It was a question whether I could descend Love Creek three miles； cross Rehoboth and Indian River sounds； ascend White's Creek； make a portage to Little Assawaman Bay； thread the thoroughfare west of Fenwick's Island Light； cross the Isle of Wight Bay； ascend and cross St。 Martin's River to Turval's Creek； and reach the home of my friend； all in one day。 But I determined to attempt the task。 Mr。 Webb roused his family at an early hour； and I rowed down Love Creek and crossed the shallow waters of Rehoboth Bay in the early part of the day。
From Cape Henlopen； following the general contour of the coast； to Cape Charles at the northern entrance of Chesapeake Bay； is a distance of one hundred and thirty…six miles； from Cape Charles across the mouth of Chesapeake Bay to Cape Henry is thirteen miles； from Henlopen south； the state of Delaware occupies about twenty miles of the coast； the eastern shore of Maryland holds between thirty and forty miles； while the eastern shore of Virginia； represented by the counties of Accomac and Northampton； covers the peninsula to Cape Charles。
Commencing at Rehoboth Bay； a small boat may follow the interior waters to the Chesapeake Bay。 The watercourses of this coast are protected from the rough waves of the ocean by long； narrow； sandy islands； known as beaches； between which the tides enter。 These passages from the sea to the interior waters are called inlets； and most of them are navigable for coasting vessels of light draught。 These inlets are so influenced by the action of storms； and their shores and locations are so changed by them； that the cattle may graze to…day in tranquil happiness where only a generation ago the old skipper navigated his craft。 During June of the year 1821 a fierce gale opened Sandy Point Inlet with a foot depth of water； but it closed in 1831。 Green Point Inlet was cut through the beach during a gale in 1837； and was closed up seven years later。 Old Sinepuxent Inlet； which was forced open by the sea more than sixty years ago； closed in 1831。 These three inlets were within a space of three miles； and were all north of Chincoteague village。 Green Run Inlet； which had a depth of about six feet of water for nearly ten years； also closed after shifting half a mile to the south of its original location。 The tendency of inlets on this coast is to shift to the southward； as do the inlets on the coast of New Jersey。
Oystermen； fishermen； and farmers live along the upland； and in some cases on the island beaches。 From these bays； timber； firewood； grain； and oysters are shipped to northern ports。 The people are everywhere kind and hospitable to strangers。 A mild climate； cheap and easily worked soils； wild…fowl shooting； fine oysters and fishing privileges； offer inducements to Northerners and Europeans to settle in this country； the mild form of ague which exists in most of its localities being the only objection。 While debating this point with a native； he attacked my argument by saying：
〃Law sakes！ don't folks die of something； any way？ If you don't have fever 'n' ague round Massachusetts； you've got an awful lot of things we hain't got here a tarnashun sight wuss ones； too； sich as cumsempsun； brown…critters； mental spinageetis； lung…disease； and all sorts of brownkill disorders。 Besides； you have such awful cold winters that a farmer has to stay holed four months out of the year； while we folks in the south can work most of the time out of doors。 I'll be dog…goned if I hadn't ruther live here in poverty than die up north a…rolling in riches。 Now； stranger； as to what you said about sickness； why we aren't no circumstance to you fellows up north。 Why； your hull country is chuckfull of pizenous remedies。 When I was a…coasting along Yankeedom and went ashore； I found all the rocks along the road were jist kivered with quack…medicine notices； and all the farmers hired out the outsides of their barns to advertise doctor's stuff on。〃
In no portion of America do the people seem to feel the burden of earning a livelihood more lightly。 They get a great deal of social enjoyment out of life at very little cost； and place much less value on the 〃mighty dollar〃 than do their brother farmers of the northern section of the states。 The interesting inquiry of 〃Who was his father？〃 commences at Philadelphia； and its importance intensifies as you travel southward。 Old family associations have great weight among all classes。
It was six miles from the mouth of Love Creek across the little sound to Burton's marshy island at the entrance of Indian River Sound。 Indian River supplies its bay with much of its fresh water； and the small inlet in the beach of the same name with the salt water of the ocean。 Large flocks of geese and ducks were seen upon the quiet waters of the sound。 Pursuing my southward course across Indian River Sound three miles； I entered a small creek with a wide mouth； which flows north from the cedar swamp； known as White's Creek； which I ascended until the stream became so narrow that it seemed almost lost in the wilderness； when suddenly an opening in the forest showed me a clearing with the little buildings of a farm scattered around。 It was the home of a Methodist exhorter； Mr。 Silas J。 Betts。 I told him how anxious I was to make a quick portage to the nearest southern water； Little Assawaman Bay； not much more than three miles distant by road。
After calmly examining my boat； he said： 〃It is now half…past eleven o'clock。 Wife has dinner about ready。 I'll hurry her up a little； and while she is putting it on the table we will get the cart ready。〃 The cart was soon loaded with pine needles as a bed for the canoe。 We lashed her into a firm position with cords； and went in to dinner。
In a short time after； we were rattling over a level； wooded country diversified here and there by a little farm。 The shallow bay； the east side of which was separated from the ocean by sandy hills； was bounded by marshes。 We drove close to the water and put the Maria Theresa once more into her true element。 A friendly shake of the hand as I paid the conscientious man his charge of one dollar for his services； with many thanks for his hospitality； for which he would accept nothing and the canoe was off； threading the narrow and very shallow channel…way of this grassy…bottomed bay。
The tall tower of Fenwick's Island Light； located on the boundary line of Delaware and Maryland； was now my landmark。 It rises out of the low land that forms a barrier against which the sea breaks。 The people on the coast pronounce Fenwick 〃Phoenix。〃 Phoenix Island； they say； was once a part of the mainland； but a woman； wishing to keep her cattle from straying； gave a man a shirt for digging a narrow ditch between Little and Great Assawaman bays。 The tide ebbed and flowed so strongly through this new channel…way that it was worn to more than a hundred feet in width； and has at high tide a depth in places of from ten to fifteen feet of water。 The opening of this new thoroughfare so diminished the flow of water through the Little Assawaman Inlet to the sea； that it became closed。 The water was almost fresh here； as the nearest inlet which admits salt water at high tide is at Chincoteague Island； some fifty miles distant。
Passing to the west of the light…house through this passage； I thought of what a woman could do； and almost expected to hear from the rippling waters the 〃Song of
