voyage of the paper canoe-第19章
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hich seemed to grow broader as I advanced。 The bay was still bordered by extensive marshes； with here and there the habitation of man located upon some slight elevation of the surface。 Having rowed twenty…six miles； and being off the mouth of Murderkill Creek； a squall struck the canoe and forced it on to an oyster reef； upon the sharp shells of which she was rocked for several minutes by the shallow breakers。 Fearing that the paper shell was badly cut； though it was still early in the afternoon； I ascended the creek of ominous name and associations to the landing of an inn kept by Jacob Lavey； where I expected to overhaul my injured craft。 To my surprise and great relief of mind there were found only a few superficial scratches upon the horn…like shellacked surface of the paper shell。 To apply shellac with a heated iron to the wounds made by the oyster…shells was the work of a few minutes； and my craft was as sound as ever。 The gunner's resort； 〃Bower's Beach Hotel；〃 furnished an excellent supper of oyster fritters； panfish； and fried pork…scrapple。 Mine host； before a blazing wood fire； told me of the origin of the name of Murderkill Creek。
〃In the early settlement of the country；〃 began the innkeeper； 〃the white settlers did all they could to civilize the Indians； but the cussed savages wouldn't take to it kindly； but worried the life out of the new…comers。 At last a great landed proprietor； who held a big grant of land in these parts； thought he'd settle the troubles。 So he planted a brass cannon near the creek； and invited all the Indians of the neighborhood to come and hear the white man's Great Spirit talk。 The crafty man got the savages before the mouth of the cannon； and said； 'Now look into the hole there； for it is the mouth of the white man's Great Spirit； which will soon speak in tones of thunder。' The fellow then touched off the gun； and knocked half the devils into splinters。 The others were so skeerd at the big voice they had heard that they were afraid to move； and were soon all killed by one charge after another from the cannon： so the creek has been called Murderkill ever since。〃
I afterwards discovered that there were other places on the coast which had the same legend as the one told me by the innkeeper。 Holders of small farms lived in the vicinity of this tavern； but the post…office was at Frederica； five miles inland。 Embarking the next day； I felt sure of ending my cruise on Delaware Bay before night； as the quiet morning exhibited no signs of rising winds。 The little pilot town of Lewes； near Cape Delaware； and behind the Breakwater； is a port of refuge for storm…bound vessels。 From this village I expected to make a portage of six miles to Love Creek； a tributary of Rehoboth Sound。 The frosty nights were now exerting a sanitary influence over the malarial districts which I had entered； and the unacclimated canoeist of northern birth could safely pursue his journey； and sleep at night in the swamps along the fresh…water streams if protected from the dews by a rubber or canvas covering。 My hopes of reaching the open sea that night were to be drowned； and in cold water too； for that day； which opened so calmly and with such smiling promises； was destined to prove a season of trial； and before its evening shadows closed around me； to witness a severe struggle for life in the cold waters of Delaware Bay。
An hour after leaving Murderkill Creek the wind came from the north in strong squalls。 My little boat taking the blasts on her quarter； kept herself free of the swashy seas hour after hour。 I kept as close to the sandy beach of the great marshes as possible； so as to be near the land in case an accident should happen。 Mispillion Creek and a light…house on the north of its mouth were passed； when the wind and seas struck my boat on the port beam； and continually crowded her ashore。 The water breaking on the hard； sandy beach of the marshy coast made it too much of a risk to attempt a landing； as the canoe would be smothered in the swashy seas if her head way was checked for a moment。 Amidships the canoe was only a few inches out of water； but her great sheer； full bow； and smoothness of hull； with watchful management； kept her from swamping。 I had struggled along for fourteen miles since morning； and was fatigued by the strain consequent upon the continued manoeuvring of my boat through the rough waves。 I reached a point on Slaughter Beach； where the bay has a width of nearly nineteen miles； when the tempest rose to such a pitch that the great raging seas threatened every moment to wash over my canoe； and to force me by their violence close into the beach。 To my alarm； as the boat rose and fell upon the waves； the heads of sharp…pointed stakes appeared and disappeared in the broken waters。 They were the stakes of fishermen to which they attach their nets in the season of trout…fishing。 The danger of being impaled on one of these forced me off shore again。
There was no undertow； the seas being driven over shoals were irregular and broken。 At last my sea came。 It rolled up without a crest； square and formidable。 I could not calculate where it would break； but I pulled for life away from it towards the beach upon which the sea was breaking with deafening sound。 It was only for a moment that I beheld the great brown wave； which bore with it the mud of the shoal； bearing down upon me； for the next； it broke astern； sweeping completely over the canoe from stern to stem； filling it through the opening of the canvas round my body。 Then for a while the watery area was almost smooth； so completely had the great wave levelled it。 The canoe being water…logged； settled below the surface； the high points of the ends occasionally emerging from the water。 Other heavy seas followed the first； one of which striking me as high as my head and shoulders； turned both the canoe and canoeist upside…down。
A Capsize in Delaware Bay （100K）
Kicking myself free of the canvas deck； I struck out from under the shell； and quickly rose to the surface。 It was then that the words of an author of a European Canoe Manual came to my mind： 〃When you capsize； first right the canoe and get astride it over one end； keeping your legs in the water； when you have crawled to the well or cockpit； bale out the boat with your hat。〃 Comforting as these instructions from an experienced canoe traveller seemed when reading them in my hermitage ashore； the present application of them （so important a principle in Captain Jack Bunsby's log of life） was in this emergency an impossibility； for my hat had disappeared with the seat…cushion and one iron outrigger； while the oars were floating to leeward with the canoe。
The boat having turned keel up； her great sheer would have righted her had it not been for the cargo； which settled itself on the canvas deck…cloth； and ballasted the craft in that position。 So smooth were her polished sides that it was impossible to hold on to her； for she rolled about like a slippery porpoise in a tideway。 having tested and proved futile the kind suggestions of writers on marine disasters； and feeling very stiff in the icy water； I struck out in an almost exhausted condition for the shore。 Now a new experience taught me an interesting lesson。 The seas rolled over my head and shoulders in such rapid succession； that I found I could not get my head above water to breathe； while the sharp sand kept in suspension by the agitated water scratched my face； and filled my eyes； nostrils； and ears。 While I felt this pressing down and burying tendency of the seas； as they broke upon my head and shoulders； I understood the reason why so many good swimmers are drowned in attempting to reach the shore from a wreck on a shoal； when the wind； though blowing heavily； is in the victim's favor。 The land was not over an eighth of a mile away； and from it came the sullen roar of the breakers； pounding their heavy weight upon the sandy shingle。 As its booming thunders or its angry； swashing sound increased； I knew I was rapidly nearing it； but； blinded by the boiling waters； I could see nothing。
At such a moment do not stop to make vows as to how you will treat your neighbor in future i
