voyage of the paper canoe-第17章
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ng of Spain； in times gone by； was wont to walk and sadly ponder on his exile from la belle France。
The Rev。 John H。 Barkeley； proprietor as well as principal of the Bordentown Female Seminary； took me to his ancient mansion； where Thomas Paine； of old Revolutionary war times； had lodged。 Not the least attraction in the home of my friend was the group of fifty young ladies； who were kind enough to gather upon a high bluff when I left the town； and wave graceful farewell to the paper canoe as she entered the tidal current of the river Delaware en route for the Quaker city。
During my short stay in Bordentown Mr。 Isaac Gabel kindly acted as my guide and we explored the Bonaparte Park； which is on the outskirts of the town。 The grounds are beautifully laid out。 Some of the old houses of the ex…king's friends and attendants still remain in a fair state of preservation。 The elegant residence of Joseph Bonaparte； or the Count de Surveilliers； which was always open to American visitors of all classes； was torn down by Mr。 Hairy Beckon； an Englishman in the diplomatic service of the British government； who purchased this property some years after the Count returned to Europe； and erected a more elaborate mansion near the old site。 The old citizens of Bordentown hold in grateful remembrance the favors showered upon them by Joseph Bonaparte and his family； who seem to have lived a democratic life in the grand old park。 The Count returned to France in 1838； and never visited the United States again。 New Jersey had welcomed the exiled monarch； and had given him certain legal privileges in property rights which New York had refused him； so he settled upon the lovely shores of the fair Delaware； and lavished his wealth upon the people of the state that had so kindly received him。 The citizens of neighboring states becoming somewhat jealous of the good luck that had befallen New Jersey in her capture of the Spanish king； applied to the state the cognomen of 〃New Spain；〃 and called the inhabitants thereof 〃Spaniards。〃
The Delaware River； the Makeriskitton of the savage； upon whose noble waters my paper canoe was now to carry me southward； has its sources in the western declivity of the Catskill Mountains； in the state of New York。 It is fed by two tributary streams； the Oquago （or Coquago） and the Popacton； which unite their waters at the boundary line of Pennsylvania； at the northeast end of the state； from which it flows southward seventy miles； separating the Empire and Keystone states。 When near Port Jervis； which town is connected with Rondout on the Hudson River； by the Hudson and Delaware Canal； the Delaware turns sharply to the southwest； and becomes the boundary line between the states of New Jersey and Pennsylvania。 Below Easton the river again takes a Southeasterly course； and flowing past Trenton； Bristol； Bordentown； Burlington； Philadelphia； Camden； Newcastle； and Delaware City； empties its waters into Delaware Bay about forty miles below Philadelphia。
This river has about the same length as the Hudson three hundred miles。 The tide reaches one hundred and thirty…two miles from the sea at Cape May and Cape Henlopen。 Philadelphia is the head of navigation for vessels of the heaviest tonnage； Trenton for light…draught steamboats。 At Bordentown the river is less than half a mile wide； at Philadelphia it is three…fourths of a mile in width； while at Delaware City it widens to two miles and a half。 Delaware Bay is twenty…six miles across in the widest part； which is some miles within the entrance of the Capes。
October 31st was cool and gusty。 The river route to Philadelphia is twenty…nine statute miles。 The passage was made against a strong head…wind； with swashy waves； which made me again regret that I did not have my canoe…decking made at Troy； instead of at Philadelphia。 The highly cultivated farms and beautiful country…seats along both the Pennsylvania and New Jersey sides of the river spoke highly of the rich character of the soil and the thrift of the inhabitants。 These river counties of two states may be called a land of plenty； blessed with bountiful harvests。
Quaker industry and wise economy in managing the agricultural affairs of this section in the early epochs of our country's settlement have borne good fruit。 All praise to the memory of William Penn of Pennsylvania and his worthy descendants。 The old towns of Bristol on the right； and Burlington on the left bank； embowered in vernal shades； have a most comfortable and home…like appearance。
At five o'clock P。 M。 I arrived at the city pier opposite the warehouse of Messrs。 C。 P。 Knight & Brother； No。 114 South Delaware Avenue； where； after a struggle with wind and wave for eight hours； the canoe was landed and deposited with the above firm； the gentlemen of which kindly offered to care for it while I tarried in the 〃City of Brotherly Love。〃
Among the many interesting spots hallowed by memories of the past in which Philadelphia abounds； and which are rarely sought out by visitors； two especially claim the attention of the naturalist。 One is the old home of William Bartram； on the banks of the Schuylkill at Grey's Ferry； the other； the grave of Alexander Wilson； friends and co…laborers in nature's extended field； the first a botanist； the second the father of American ornithology。
William Bartram； son of the John Bartram who was the founder of the Botanic Garden on the west bank of the Schuylkill； was born at that interesting spot in 1739。 All botanists are familiar with the results of his patient labors and his pioneer travels in those early days； through the wilderness of what now constitutes the southeastern states。 One who visited him at his home says： 〃Arrived at the botanist's garden； we approached an old man who； with a rake in his hand； was breaking the clods of earth in a tulip…bed。 His hat was old； and flapped over his Etee； his coarse shirt was seen near his neck； as he wore no cravat nor kerchief； his waistcoat and breeches were both of leather； and his shoes were tied with leather strings。 We approached and accosted him。 He ceased his work； and entered into conversation with the ease and politeness of nature's nobleman。 His countenance was expressive of benignity and happiness。 This was the botanist； traveller and philosopher we had come to see。〃
William Bartram gave important assistance and encouragement to the friendless Scotch pedagogue； Alexander Wilson； while the latter was preparing his American Ornithology for the press。 This industrious and peaceable botanist died within the walls of his dearly…loved home a few minutes after he had penned a description of a plant。 He died in 1823； in the eighty…fifth year of his age。 The old house of John and William Bartram remains nearly the same as when the last Bartram died； but the grounds have been occupied and improved by the present proprietor； whose fine mansion is near the old residence of the two botanists。
Without ample funds to enable him to carry out his bold design； Alexander Wilson labored and suffered in body and mind for several years； until his patient and persistent efforts achieved the success they so richly merited。 All but the last volume of his American Ornithology were completed when the overworked naturalist died。
The old Swedes' Church is the most ancient religious edifice in Philadelphia； and is located near the wharves in the vicinity of Christian and Swanson streets； in the old district of Southwark。 The Swedes had settlements on the Delaware before Penn visited America。 They built a wooden edifice for worship in 1677； on the spot where the brick 〃Swedes' Church〃 now stands； and which was erected in 1700。 Threading narrow streets； with the stenographic reporter of the courts； Mr。 R。 A。 West； for my guide； we came into a quiet locality where the ancient landmark reared its steeple； like the finger of faith pointing heavenward。 Few indeed must be the fashionable Christians who worship under its unpretentious roof； but there is an air of antiquity surrounding it which interests every visitor who enters its venerable doorway。
The church…yard is very contracted in area yet there is room for trees to grow wit
