early australian voyages-第21章
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r else here was a tide unknown to us that deceived us; though we had found very little of any tide on this coast hitherto; as to our winds in the coasting thus far; as we had been within the verge of the general trade (though interrupted by the storm I mentioned); from the latitude of 28 degrees; when we first fell in with the coast; and by that time we were in the latitude of 25 degrees; we had usually the regular trade wind (which is here south…south…east) when we were at any distance from shore; but we had often sea and land breezes; especially when near shore and when in Shark's Bay; and had a particular north…west wind or storm that set us in thither。 On this 18th of August we coasted with a brisk gale of the true trade wind at south…south…east; very fair and clear weather; but hauling off in the evening to sea; were next morning out of sight of land; and the land now trending away north…easterly; and we being to the northward of it; and the wind also shrinking from the south…south…east to the east…south…east (that is; from the true trade wind to the sea breeze; as the land now lay); we could not get in with the land again yet awhile so as to see it; though we trimmed sharp and kept close on a wind。 We were this 19th day in latitude 21 degrees 42 minutes。 The 20th we were in latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes; and kept close on a wind to get sight of the land again; but could not yet see it。 We had very fair weather; and though we were so far from the land as to be out of sight of it; yet we had the sea and land breezes。 In the night we had the land breeze at south…south… east; a small gentle gale; which in the morning about sun…rising would shift about gradually (and withal increasing in strength) till about noon we should have it at east…south…east; which is the true sea breeze here。 Then it would blow a brisk gale so that we could scarce carry our top…sails double…reefed; and it would continue thus till three in the afternoon; when it would decrease again。 The weather was fair all the while; not a cloud to be seen; but very hazy; especially nigh the horizon。 We sounded several times this 20th day; and at first had no ground; but had afterwards from fifty… two to forty…five fathom; coarse brown sand; mixed with small brown and white stones; with dints besides in the tallow。
The 21st day also we had small land breezes in the night; and sea breezes in the day; and as we saw some sea…snakes every day; so this day we saw a great many; of two different sorts or shapes。 One sort was yellow; and about the bigness of a man's wrist; about four feet long; having a flat tail about four fingers broad。 The other sort was much smaller and shorter; round; and spotted black and yellow。 This day we sounded several times; and had forty…five fathom; sand。 We did not make the land till noon; and then saw it first from our topmast head; it bore south…east by east about nine leagues distance; and it appeared like a cape or head of land。 The sea breeze this day was not so strong as the day before; and it veered out more; so that we had a fair wind to run in with to the shore; and at sunset anchored in twenty fathom; clean sand; about five leagues from the Bluff point; which was not a cape (as it appeared at a great distance); but the easternmost end of an island about five or six leagues in length; and one in breadth。 There were three or four rocky islands about a league from us; between us and the Bluff point; and we saw many other islands both to the east and west of it; as far as we could see either way from our topmast…head; and all within them to the south there was nothing but islands of a pretty height; that may be seen eight or nine leagues off; by what we saw of them they must have been a range of islands of about twenty leagues in length; stretching from east…north…east to west… south…west; and; for aught I know; as far as to those of Shark's Bay; and to a considerable breadth also; for we could see nine or ten leagues in among them; towards the continent or mainland of New Holland; if there be any such thing hereabouts; and by the great tides I met with awhile afterwards; more to the north…east; I had a strong suspicion that here might be a kind of archipelago of islands; and a passage possibly to the south of New Holland and New Guinea into the great South Sea eastward; which I had thoughts also of attempting in my return from New Guinea; had circumstances permitted; and told my officers so; but I would not attempt it at this time; because we wanted water; and could not depend upon finding it there。 This place is in the latitude of 20 degrees 21 minutes; but in the draught that I had of this coast; which was Tasman's; it was laid down in 19 degrees 50 minutes; and the shore is laid down as all along joining in one body or continent; with some openings appearing like rivers; and not like islands as really they are。 This place lies more northerly by 40 minutes than is laid down in Mr。 Tasman's draught; and besides its being made a firm continued land; only with some openings like the mouths of rivers; I found the soundings also different from what the pricked line of his course shows them; and generally shallower than he makes them; which inclines me to think that he came not so near the shore as his line shows; and so had deeper soundings; and could not so well distinguish the islands。 His meridian or difference of longitude from Shark's Bay agrees well enough with my account; which is two hundred and thirty…two leagues; though we differ in latitude; and to confirm my conjecture that the line of his course is made too near the shore; at least not far to the east of this place; the water is there so shallow that he could not come there so nigh。
But to proceed。 In the night we had a small land breeze; and in the morning I weighed anchor; designing to run in among the islands; for they had large channels between them of a league wide at least; and some two or three leagues wide。 I sent in my boat before to sound; and if they found shoal water to return again; but if they found water enough to go ashore on one of the islands and stay till the ship came in; where they might in the meantime search for water。 So we followed after with the ship; sounding as we went in; and had twenty fathom till within two leagues of the Bluff head; and then we had shoal water and very uncertain soundings; yet we ran in still with an easy sail; sounding and looking out well; for this was dangerous work。 When we came abreast of the Bluff head; and about two miles from it; we had but seven fathom; then we edged away from it; but had no more water; and running in a little farther we had but four fathoms; so we anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out a third of a cable; we had seven fathom water again; so uncertain was the water。 My boat came immediately on board; and told me that the island was very rocky and dry; and they had little hopes of finding water there。 I sent them to sound; and bade them; if they found a channel of eight or ten fathom water; to keep on; and we would follow with the ship。 We were now about four leagues within the outer small rocky islands; but still could see nothing but islands within us; some five or six leagues long; others not above a mile round。 The large islands were pretty high; but all appeared dry; and mostly rocky and barren。 The rocks looked of a rusty yellow colour; and therefore I despaired of getting water on any of them; but was in some hopes of finding a channel to run in beyond all these islands; could I have spent time here; and either got to the main of New Holland or find out some other islands that might afford us water and other refreshments; besides that among so many islands we might have found some sort of rich mineral; or ambergris; it being a good latitude for both these。 But we had not sailed above a league farther before our water grew shoaler again; and then we anchored in six fathom; hard sand。
We were now on the inner side of the island; on whose outside is the Bluff point。 We rode a league from the island; and I presently went ashore and carried shovels to dig for water; but found none。 There grow here two or three sorts of shrubs; one just like rosemary; and ther