returning home-第3章
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Spaniards was the leader； or chief man of the party； but the others
seemed to stand on an equal footing with each other； and indeed the
place of greatest care had been given to the Indian。
For the first four or five miles their route lay along the high road
which leads from San Jose to Punt' Arenas； and so far a group of
acquaintances followed them； all mounted on mules。 Here； where the
ways forked； their road leading through the great forests to the
Atlantic； they separated； and many tears were shed on each side。
What might be the future life of the Arkwrights had not been
absolutely fixed； but there was a strong hope on their part that
they might never be forced to return to Costa Rica。 Those from whom
they now parted had not seemed to be dear to them in any especial
degree while they all lived together in the same small town； seeing
each other day by day； but now；now that they might never meet
again； a certain love sprang up for the old familiar faces； and
women kissed each other who hitherto had hardly cared to enter each
other's houses。
And then the party of the Arkwrights again started； and its steady
work began。 In the whole of the first day the way beneath their
feet was tolerably good； and the weather continued fine。 It was one
long gradual ascent from the plain where the roads parted； but there
was no real labour in travelling。 Mrs。 Arkwright rode beside her
baby's mule； at the head of which the Indian always walked； and the
two men went together in front。 The husband had found that his wife
would prefer this； as long as the road allowed of such an
arrangement。 Her heart was too full to admit of much speaking； and
so they went on in silence。
The first night was passed in a hut by the roadside； which seemed to
be deserted；a hut or rancho as it is called in that country。
Their food they had； of course； brought with them； and here； by
common consent； they endeavoured in some sort to make themselves
merry。
〃Fanny；〃 Arkwright said to her； 〃it is not so bad after all； eh； my
darling？〃
〃No；〃 she answered； 〃only that the mule tires one so。 Will all the
days be as long as that？〃
He had not the heart to tell her that as regarded hours of work；
that first day must of necessity be the shortest。 They had risen to
a considerable altitude； and the night was very cold； but baby was
enveloped among a pile of coloured blankets； and things did not go
very badly with them； only this； that when Fanny Arkwright rose from
her hard bed； her limbs were more weary and much more stiff than
they had been when Arkwright had lifted her from her mule。
On the second morning they mounted before the day had quite broken；
in order that they might breakfast on the summit of the ridge which
separates the two oceans。 At this spot the good road comes to an
end； and the forest track begins； and here also； they would； in
truth； enter the forest； though their path had for some time been
among straggling trees and bushes。 And now； again； they rode two
and two； up to this place of halting； Arkwright and Ring well
knowing that from hence their labours would in truth commence。
Poor Mrs。 Arkwright； when she reached this resting…place； would fain
have remained there for the rest of the day。 One word； in her low；
plaintive voice； she said； asking whether they might not sleep in
the large shed which stands there。 But this was manifestly
impossible。 At such a pace they would never reach Greytown； and she
spoke no further word when he told her that they must go on。
At about noon that day the file of travellers formed itself into the
line which it afterwards kept during the whole of the journey； and
then started by the narrow path into the forest。 First walked the
leader of the guides； then another man following him； Abel Ring came
next； and behind him the maid…servant； then the baby's mule； with
the Indian ever at its head； close at his heels followed Mrs。
Arkwright； so that the mother's eye might be always on her child；
and after her her husband； then another guide on foot completed the
number of the travellers。 In this way they went on and on； day
after day； till they reached the banks of the Serapiqui； never once
varying their places in the procession。 As they started in the
morning； so they went on till their noon…day's rest； and so again
they made their evening march。 In that journey there was no idea of
variety； no searching after the pleasures of scenery； no attempts at
conversation with any object of interest or amusement。 What words
were spoken were those simply needful； or produced by sympathy for
suffering。 So they journeyed； always in the same places； with one
exception。 They began their work with two guides leading them； but
before the first day was over one of them had fallen back to the
side of Mrs。 Arkwright； for she was unable to sit on her mule
without support。
Their daily work was divided into two stages； so as to give some
hours for rest in the middle of the day。 It had been arranged that
the distance for each day should not be long；should be very short
as was thought by them all when they talked it over at San Jose； but
now the hours which they passed in the saddle seemed to be endless。
Their descent began from that ridge of which I have spoken； and they
had no sooner turned their faces down upon the mountain slopes
looking towards the Atlantic； than that passage of mud began to
which there was no cessation till they found themselves on the banks
of the Serapiqui river。 I doubt whether it be possible to convey in
words an adequate idea of the labour of riding over such a path。 It
is not that any active exertion is necessary；that there is
anything which requires doing。 The traveller has before him the
simple task of sitting on his mule from hour to hour； and of seeing
that his knees do not get themselves jammed against the trees； but
at every step the beast he rides has to drag his legs out from the
deep clinging mud； and the body of the rider never knows one moment
of ease。 Why the mules do not die on the road； I cannot say。 They
live through it； and do not appear to suffer。 They have their own
way in everything； for no exertion on the rider's part will make
them walk either faster or slower than is their wont。
On the day on which they entered the forest；that being the second
of their journey；Mrs。 Arkwright had asked for mercy； for
permission to escape that second stage。 On the next she allowed
herself to be lifted into her saddle after her mid…day rest without
a word。 She had tried to sleep； but in vain； and had sat within a
little hut； looking out upon the desolate scene before her； with her
baby in her lap。 She had this one comfort； that of all the
travellers； she； the baby； suffered the least。 They had now left
the high grounds； and the heat was becoming great； though not as yet
intense。 And then； the Indian guide； looking out slowly over the
forest； saw that the rain was not yet over。 He spoke a word or two
to one of his companions in a low voice and in a patois which Mrs。
Arkwright did not understand； and then going after the husband； told
him that the heavens were threatening。
〃We have only two leagues；〃 said Arkwright； 〃and it may perhaps hold
up。〃
〃It will begin in an hour；〃 said the Indian； 〃and the two leagues
are four hours。〃
〃And to…morrow；〃 asked Arkwright。
〃To…morrow； and to…morrow； and to…morrow it will still rain；〃 said
the guide； looking as he spoke up over the huge primeval forest。
〃Then we had better start at once；〃 said Arkwright； 〃before the
first falling drops frighten the women。〃 So the mules were brought
out； and he lifted his uncomplaining wife on to the blankets which
formed her pillion。 The file again formed itself； and slowly they
wound their way out from the small enclosure by which the hut was
surrounded；out from the enclosure on to a rough scrap of undrained
pasture ground from which the trees had been cleared。 In a few
minutes they were once more struggling through the mud。
The name of the spot which our travellers had just left is
Carablanco。 There they found a woman living all alone。 Her husband
was away； she told them； a
