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第9章

itinerary of archibishop-第9章

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; all of whom; dedicated from their youth to religious observances; happily ended their lives in sanctity。  There are many churches in Wales distinguished by their names; one of which; situated on the summit of a hill; near Brecheinoc; and not far from the castle of Aberhodni; is called the church of St。 Almedda; {49} after the name of the holy virgin; who; refusing there the hand of an earthly spouse; married the Eternal King; and triumphed in a happy martyrdom; to whose honour a solemn feast is annually held in the beginning of August; and attended by a large concourse of people from a considerable distance; when those persons who labour under various diseases; through the merits of the Blessed Virgin; received their wished…for health。  The circumstances which occur at every anniversary appear to me remarkable。  You may see men or girls; now in the church; now in the churchyard; now in the dance; which is led round the churchyard with a song; on a sudden falling on the ground as in a trance; then jumping up as in a frenzy; and representing with their hands and feet; before the people; whatever work they have unlawfully done on feast days; you may see one man put his hand to the plough; and another; as it were; goad on the oxen; mitigating their sense of labour; by the usual rude song:  {50} one man imitating the profession of a shoemaker; another; that of a tanner。  Now you may see a girl with a distaff; drawing out the thread; and winding it again on the spindle; another walking; and arranging the threads for the web; another; as it were; throwing the shuttle; and seeming to weave。  On being brought into the church; and led up to the altar with their oblations; you will be astonished to see them suddenly awakened; and coming to themselves。  Thus; by the divine mercy; which rejoices in the conversion; not in the death; of sinners; many persons from the conviction of their senses; are on these feast days corrected and mended。

This country sufficiently abounds with grain; and if there is any deficiency; it is amply supplied from the neighbouring parts of England; it is well stored with pastures; woods; and wild and domestic animals。  River…fish are plentiful; supplied by the Usk on one side; and by the Wye on the other; each of them produces salmon and trout; but the Wye abounds most with the former; the Usk with the latter。  The salmon of the Wye are in season during the winter; those of the Usk in summer; but the Wye alone produces the fish called umber; {51} the praise of which is celebrated in the works of Ambrosius; as being found in great numbers in the rivers near Milan; 〃What;〃 says he; 〃is more beautiful to behold; more agreeable to smell; or more pleasant to taste?〃  The famous lake of Brecheinoc supplies the country with pike; perch; excellent trout; tench; and eels。  A circumstance concerning this lake; which happened a short time before our days; must not be passed over in silence。  〃In the reign of king Henry I。; Gruffydd; {52} son of Rhys ap Tewdwr; held under the king one comot; namely; the fourth part of the cantred of Caoc; {53} in the cantref Mawr; which; in title and dignity; was esteemed by the Welsh equal to the southern part of Wales; called Deheubarth; that is; the right…hand side of Wales。  When Gruffydd; on his return from the king's court; passed near this lake; which at that cold season of the year was covered with water…fowl of various sorts; being accompanied by Milo; earl of Hereford; and lord of Brecheinoc; and Payn Fitz…John; lord of Ewyas; who were at that time secretaries and privy counsellors to the king; earl Milo; wishing to draw forth from Gruffydd some discourse concerning his innate nobility; rather jocularly than seriously thus addressed him:  〃It is an ancient saying in Wales; that if the natural prince of the country; coming to this lake; shall order the birds to sing; they will immediately obey him。〃  To which Gruffydd; richer in mind than in gold; (for though his inheritance was diminished; his ambition and dignity still remained); answered; 〃Do you therefore; who now hold the dominion of this land; first give the command;〃 but he and Payn having in vain commanded; and Gruffydd; perceiving that it was necessary for him to do so in his turn; dismounted from his horse; and falling on his knees towards the east; as if he had been about to engage in battle; prostrate on the ground; with his eyes and hands uplifted to heaven; poured forth devout prayers to the Lord: at length; rising up; and signing his face and forehead with the figure of the cross; he thus openly spake:  〃Almighty God; and Lord Jesus Christ; who knowest all things; declare here this day thy power。  If thou hast caused me to descend lineally from the natural princes of Wales; I command these birds in thy name to declare it;〃 and immediately the birds; beating the water with their wings; began to cry aloud; and proclaim him。  The spectators were astonished and confounded; and earl Milo hastily returning with Payn Fitz…John to court; related this singular occurrence to the king; who is said to have replied; 〃By the death of Christ (an oath he was accustomed to use); it is not a matter of so much wonder; for although by our great authority we commit acts of violence and wrong against these people; yet they are known to be the rightful inheritors of this land。〃

The lake also {54} (according to the testimony of the inhabitants) is celebrated for its miracles; for; as we have before observed; it sometimes assumed a greenish hue; so in our days it has appeared to be tinged with red; not universally; but as if blood flowed partially through certain veins and small channels。  Moreover it is sometimes seen by the inhabitants covered and adorned with buildings; pastures; gardens; and orchards。  In the winter; when it is frozen over; and the surface of the water is converted into a shell of ice; it emits a horrible sound resembling the moans of many animals collected together; but this; perhaps; may be occasioned by the sudden bursting of the shell; and the gradual ebullition of the air through imperceptible channels。  This country is well sheltered on every side (except the northern) by high mountains; on the western by those of cantref Bychan; {55} on the southern; by that range; of which the principal is Cadair Arthur; {56} or the chair of Arthur; so called from two peaks rising up in the form of a chair; and which; from its lofty situation; is vulgarly ascribed to Arthur; the most distinguished king of the Britons。  A spring of water rises on the summit of this mountain; deep; but of a square shape; like a well; and although no stream runs from it; trout are said to be sometimes found in it。

Being thus sheltered on the south by high mountains; the cooler breezes protect this district from the heat of the sun; and; by their natural salubrity; render the climate most temperate。  Towards the east are the mountains of Talgarth and Ewyas。 {57}  The natives of these parts; actuated by continual enmities and implacable hatred; are perpetually engaged in bloody contests。  But we leave to others to describe the great and enormous excesses; which in our time have been here committed; with regard to marriages; divorces; and many other circumstances of cruelty and oppression。



CHAPTER III



Ewyas and Llanthoni


In the deep vale of Ewyas; {58} which is about an arrow…shot broad; encircled on all sides by lofty mountains; stands the church of Saint John the Baptist; covered with lead; and built of wrought stone; and; considering the nature of the place; not unhandsomely constructed; on the very spot where the humble chapel of David; the archbishop; had formerly stood decorated only with moss and ivy。  A situation truly calculated for religion; and more adapted to canonical discipline; than all the monasteries of the British isle。 It was founded by two hermits; in honour of the retired life; far removed from the bustle of mankind; in a solitary vale watered by the river Hodeni。  From Hodeni it was called Lanhodeni; for Lan signifies an ecclesiastical place。  This derivation may appear far… fetched; for the name of the place; in Welsh; is Nanthodeni。  Nant signifies a running stream; from whence this place is still called by t

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