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第25章

itinerary of archibishop-第25章

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 a boat; and quitted the diocese of St。 David's; we entered the land of the sons of Conan; or Merionyth; the first province of Venedotia on that side of the country; and belonging to the bishopric of Bangor。 {146}  We slept that night at Towyn。  Early next morning; Gruffydd son of Conan {147} came to meet us; humbly and devoutly asking pardon for having so long delayed his attention to the archbishop。  On the same day; we ferried over the bifurcate river Maw; {148} where Malgo; son of Rhys; who had attached himself to the archbishop; as a companion to the king's court; discovered a ford near the sea。  That night we lay at Llanvair; {149} that is the church of St。 Mary; in the province of Ardudwy。 {150}  This territory of Conan; and particularly Merionyth; is the rudest and roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are very high and narrow; terminating in sharp peaks; and so irregularly jumbled together; that if the shepherds conversing or disputing with each other from their summits; should agree to meet; they could scarcely effect their purpose in the course of the whole day。  The lances of this country are very long; for as South Wales excels in the use of the bow; so North Wales is distinguished for its skill in the lance; insomuch that an iron coat of mail will not resist the stroke of a lance thrown at a small distance。  The next morning; the youngest son of Conan; named Meredyth; met us at the passage of a bridge; attended by his people; where many persons were signed with the cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of his suite; and one of his intimate friends; and Meredyth; observing that the cloak; on which the cross was to be sewed; appeared of too thin and of too common a texture; with a flood of tears; threw him down his own。



CHAPTER VI



Passage of Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan; and of Nevyn; Carnarvon; and Bangor


We continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr; {151} and Traeth Bachan; {152} that is; the greater and the smaller arm of the sea; where two stone castles have newly been erected; one called Deudraeth; belonging to the sons of Conan; situated in Evionyth; towards the northern mountains; the other named Carn Madryn; the property of the sons of Owen; built on the other side of the river towards the sea; on the head…land Lleyn。 {153}  Traeth; in the Welsh language; signifies a tract of sand flooded by the tides; and left bare when the sea ebbs。  We had before passed over the noted rivers; the Dissenith; {154} between the Maw and Traeth Mawr; and the Arthro; between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan。  We slept that night at Nevyn; on the eve of Palm Sunday; where the archdeacon; after long inquiry and research; is said to have found Merlin Sylvestris。 {155}

Beyond Lleyn; there is a small island inhabited by very religious monks; called Caelibes; or Colidei。  This island; either from the wholesomeness of its climate; owing to its vicinity to Ireland; or rather from some miracle obtained by the merits of the saints; has this wonderful peculiarity; that the oldest people die first; because diseases are uncommon; and scarcely any die except from extreme old age。  Its name is Enlli in the Welsh; and Berdesey {156} in the Saxon language; and very many bodies of saints are said to be buried there; and amongst them that of Daniel; bishop of Bangor。

The archbishop having; by his sermon the next day; induced many persons to take the cross; we proceeded towards Banchor; passing through Caernarvon; {157} that is; the castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon; the province opposite to Mon; because it is so situated with respect to the island of Mona。  Our road leading us to a steep valley; {158} with many broken ascents and descents; we dismounted from our horses; and proceeded on foot; rehearsing; as it were; by agreement; some experiments of our intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem。 Having traversed the valley; and reached the opposite side with considerable fatigue; the archbishop; to rest himself and recover his breath; sat down on an oak which had been torn up by the violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry highly laudable in a person of his approved gravity; thus addressed his attendants:  〃Who amongst you; in this company; can now delight our wearied ears by whistling?〃 which is not easily done by people out of breath。  He affirming that he could; if he thought fit; the sweet notes are heard; in an adjoining wood; of a bird; which some said was a woodpecker; and others; more correctly; an aureolus。  The woodpecker is called in French; spec; and with its strong bill; perforates oak trees; the other bird in called aureolus; from the golden tints of its feathers; and at certain seasons utters a sweet whistling note instead of a song。  Some persons having remarked; that the nightingale was never heard in this country; the archbishop; with a significant smile; replied; 〃The nightingale followed wise counsel; and never came into Wales; but we; unwise counsel; who have penetrated and gone through it。〃  We remained that night at Banchor; {159} the metropolitan see of North Wales; and were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese。 {160}  On the next day; mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high altar; the bishop of that see; at the instance of the archbishop and other persons; more importunate than persuasive; was compelled to take the cross; to the general concern of all his people of both sexes; who expressed their grief on this occasion by loud and lamentable vociferations。



CHAPTER VII



The island of Mona


From hence; we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of Mona; {161} distant from thence about two miles; where Roderic; the younger son of Owen; attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the island; and many others from the adjacent countries; came in a devout manner to meet us。  Confession having been made in a place near the shore; where the surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural theatre; {162} many persons were induced to take the cross; by the persuasive discourses of the archbishop; and Alexander; our interpreter; archdeacon of that place; and of Sisillus; abbot of Stratflur。  Many chosen youths of the family of Roderic were seated on an opposite rock; and not one of them could be prevailed upon to take the cross; although the archbishop and others most earnestly exhorted them; but in vain; by an address particularly directed to them。  It came to pass within three days; as if by divine vengeance; that these young men; with many others; pursued some robbers of that country。  Being discomfited and put to flight; some were slain; others mortally wounded; and the survivors voluntarily assumed that cross they had before despised。  Roderic; also; who a short time before had incestuously married the daughter of Rhys; related to him by blood in the third degree; in order; by the assistance of that prince; to be better able to defend himself against the sons of his brothers; whom he had disinherited; not paying attention to the wholesome admonitions of the archbishop on this subject; was a little while afterwards dispossessed of all his lands by their means; thus deservedly meeting with disappointment from the very source from which he expected support。  The island of Mona contains three hundred and forty…three vills; considered equal to three cantreds。  Cantred; a compound word from the British and Irish languages; is a portion of land equal to one hundred vills。  There are three islands contiguous to Britain; on its different sides; which are said to be nearly of an equal size … the Isle of Wight on the south; Mona on the west; and Mania (Man) on the north…west side。 The two first are separated from Britain by narrow channels; the third is much further removed; lying almost midway between the countries of Ulster in Ireland and Galloway in Scotland。  The island of Mona is an arid and stony land; rough and unpleasant in its appearance; similar in its exterior qualities to the land of Pebidion; {163} near St。 David's; but very different as to its interior value。  For this island is incomparably more fertile in corn than any other part of Wales; from whence arose the British proverb; 〃Mon mam Cymbry; Mona mother of Wales;〃 and when the

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