a little tour in france-第4章
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h a diminutive doorway； in which； as I passed； an old woman stood cleaning a pot； and a little dark window decorated with homely flowers； would be appreciated by a painter in search of 〃bits。〃 The present shrine of Saint Martin is enclosed （provisionally； I suppose） in a very modem structure of timber； where in a dusky cellar； to which you descend by a wooden staircase adorned with votive tablets and paper roses； is placed a tabernacle surrounded by twinkling tapers and pros… trate worshippers。 Even this crepuscular vault； how… ever； fails； I think； to attain solemnity； for the whole place is strangely vulgar and garish。 The Catholic church； as churches go to…day； is certainly the most spectacular； but it must feel that it has a great fund of impressiveness to draw upon when it opens such sordid little shops of sanctity as this。 It is impos… sible not to be struck with the grotesqueness of such an establishment； as the last link in the chain of a great ecclesiastical tradition。
In the same street； on the other side； a little below； is something better worth your visit than the shrine of Saint Martin。 Knock at a high door in a white wall （there is a cross above it）； and a fresh…faced sister of the convent of the Petit Saint Martin will let you into the charming little cloister； or rather fragment of a cloister。 Only one side of this exqui… site structure remains； but the whole place is effective。 In front of the beautiful arcade； which is terribly bruised and obliterated； is one of those walks of inter… laced _tilleuls_ which are so frequent in Touraine； and into which the green light filters so softly through a lattice of clipped twigs。 Beyond this is a garden； and beyond the garden are the other buildings of the Convent； … where the placid sisters keep a school； … a test； doubtless； of placidity。 The imperfect arcade； which dates from the beginning of the sixteenth cen… tury （I know nothing of it but what is related in Mrs。 Pattison's 〃Rennaissance in France〃） is a truly en… chanting piece of work； the cornice and the angles of the arches； being covered with the daintiest sculpture of arabesques； flowers； fruit； medallions； cherubs； griffins； all in the finest and most attenuated relief。 It is like the chasing of a bracelet in stone。 The taste； the fancy； the elegance； the refinement； are of those things which revive our standard of the exquisite。 Such a piece of work is the purest flower of the French Renaissance； there is nothing more delicate in all Touraine。
There is another fine thing at Tours which is not particularly delicate； but which makes a great impres… sion； … the… very interesting old church of Saint Julian； lurking in a crooked corner at the right of the Rue Royale； near the point at which this indifferent thorough… fare emerges； with its little cry of admiration； on the bank of the Loire。 Saint Julian stands to…day in a kind of neglected hollow； where it is much shut in by houses； but in the year 1225； when the edifice was begun； the site was doubtless； as the architects say； more eligible。 At present； indeed； when once you have caught a glimpse of the stout； serious Romanesque tower； … which is not high； but strong； … you feel that the building has something to say； and that you must stop to listen to it。 Within； it has a vast and splendid nave； of immense height； … the nave of a cathedral； … with a shallow choir and transepts； and some admir… able old glass。 I spent half an hour there one morn… ing； listening to what the church had to say； in perfect solitude。 Not a worshipper entered； … not even an old man with a broom。 I have always thought there is a sex in fine buildings； and Saint Julian； with its noble nave； is of the gender of the name of its patron。
It was that same morning； I think； that I went in search of the old houses of Tours； for the town con… tains several goodly specimens of the domestic archi… tecture of the past。 The dwelling to which the average Anglo…Saxon will most promptly direct his steps； and the only one I have space to mention； is the so…called Maison de Tristan l'Hermite； … a gentleman whom the readers of 〃Quentin Durward〃 will not have forgotten； … the hangman…in…ordinary to the great King Louis XI。 Unfortunately the house of Tristan is not the house of Tristan at all； this illusion has been cruelly dispelled。 There are no illusions left； at all； in the good city of Tours； with regard to Louis XI。 His terrible castle of Plessis； the picture of which sends a shiver through the youthful reader of Scott； has been reduced to sub… urban insignificance； and the residence of his _triste compere；_ on the front of which a festooned rope figures as a motive for decoration； is observed to have been erected in the succeeding century。 The Maison de Tristan may be visited for itself； however； if not for Walter Scott； it is an exceedingly picturesque old facade； to which you pick your way through a narrow and tortuous street； … a street terminating； a little be… yond it； in the walk beside the river。 An elegant Gothic doorway is let into the rusty…red brick…work； and strange little beasts crouch at the angles of the windows； which are surmounted by a tall graduated gable； pierced with a small orifice； where the large surface of brick； lifted out of the shadow of the street； looks yellow and faded。 The whole thing is disfigured and decayed； but it is a capital subject for a sketch in colors。 Only I must wish the sketcher better luck … or a better temper … than my own。 If he ring the bell to be admitted to see the court； which I believe is more sketchable still； let him have patience to wait till the bell is answered。 He can do the outside while they are coming。
The Maison de Tristan； I say； may be visited for itself； but I hardly know what the remnants of Plessis… les…Tours may be visited for。 To reach them you wander through crooked suburban lanes； down the course of the Loire； to a rough； undesirable； incon… gruous spot； where a small； crude building of red brick is pointed out to you by your cabman （if you happen to drive） as the romantic abode of a super… stitious king； and where a strong odor of pigsties and other unclean things so prostrates you for the moment that you have no energy to protest against the obvious fiction。 You enter a yard encumbered with rubbish and a defiant dog； and an old woman emerges from a shabby lodge and assures you that you are indeed in an historic place。 The red brick building； which looks like a small factory； rises on the ruins of the favorite residence of the dreadful Louis。 It is now occupied by a company of night…scavengers； whose huge carts are drawn up in a row before it。 I know not whether this be what is called the irony of fate； at any rate； the effect of it is to accentuate strongly the fact （and through the most susceptible of our senses） that there is no honor for the authors of great wrongs。 The dreadful Louis is reduced simply to an offence to the nostrils。 The old woman shows you a few fragments； … several dark； damp； much…encumbered vaults； de… nominated dungeons； and an old tower staircase； in good condition。 There are the outlines of the old moat； there is also the outline of the old guard…room； which is now a stable； and there are other vague out… lines and inconsequent lumps； which I have forgotten。 You need all your imagination； and even then you cannot make out that Plessis was a castle of large ex… tent； though the old woman； as your eye wanders over the neighboring _potagers；_ talks a good deal about the gardens and the park。 The place looks mean and flat； and as you drive away you scarcely know whether to be glad or sorry that all those bristling horrors have been reduced to the commonplace。
A certain flatness of impression awaits you also； I think； at Marmoutier； which is the other indisuensable excursion in the near neighborhood of Tours。 The remains of this famous abbey lie on the other bank of the stream； about a mile and a half from the town。 You follow the edge of the big brown river； of a fine afternoon you will be glad to go further still。 The abbey has gone the way of most abbeys； but the place is a restoration as well as a ruin； inasmuch as the sisters of the Sacred Heart have erect
