a little tour in france-第18章
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
h turrets and arcades； with several beautiful windows； and with sculptures inserted in the walls； representing the various sources of the great fortune of the owner。 M。 Pierre Clement describes this part of the house as having been of an 〃incomparable richesse；〃 … an estimate of its charms which seems slightly exaggerated to…day。 There is； however； something delicate and familiar in the bas…reliefs of which I have spoken； little scenes of agriculture and industry； which show； that the pro… prietor was not ashamed of calling attention to his harvests and enterprises。 To…day we should question the taste of such allusions； even in plastic form； in the house of a 〃merchant prince〃 （say in the Fifth Avenue）。 Why is it； therefore； that these quaint little panels at Bourges do not displease us？ It is perhaps because things very ancient never； for some mysterious reason； appear vulgar。 This fifteenth…century million… naire； with his palace； his egotistical sculptures； may have produced that impression on some critical spirits of his own day。
The portress who showed me into the building was a dear litte old woman； with the gentlest； sweetest； saddest face … a little white； aged face； with dark； pretty eyes … and the most considerate manner。 She took me up into an upper hall； where there were a couple of curious chimney…pieces and a fine old oaken roof； the latter representing the hollow of a long boat。 There is a certain oddity in a native of Bourges … an inland town if there ever was one； without even a river （to call a river） to encourage nautical ambitions … hav… ing found his end as admiral of a fleet； but this boat… shaped roof； which is extremely graceful and is re… peated in another apartment； would suggest that the imagination of Jacques Coeur was fond of riding the waves。 Indeed； as he trafficked in Oriental products and owned many galleons； it is probable that he was personally as much at home in certain Mediterranean ports as in the capital of the pastoral Berry。 If； when he looked at the ceilings of his mansion； he saw his boats upside down； this was only a suggestion of the shortest way of emptying them of their treasures。 He is presented in person above one of the great stone chimney…pieces； in company with his wife； Macee de Leodepart； … I like to write such an extraordinary name。 Carved in white stone； the two sit playing at chess at an open window； through which they appear to give their attention much more to the passers…by than to the game。 They are also exhibited in other attitudes； though I do not recognize them in the composition on top of one of the fireplaces which represents the battle… ments of a castle； with the defenders （little figures be… tween the crenellations） hurling down missiles with a great deal of fury and expression。 It would have been hard to believe that the man who surrounded himself with these friendly and humorous devices had been guilty of such wrong…doing as to call down the heavy hand of justice。
It is a curious fact； however； that Bourges contains legal associations of a purer kind than the prosecution of Jacques Coeur； which； in spite of the rehabilitations of history； can hardly be said yet to have terminated； inasmuch as the law…courts of the city are installed in his quondam residence。 At a short distance from it stands the Hotel Cujas； one of the curiosities of Bourges and the habitation for many years of the great juris… consult who revived in the sixteenth century the study of the Roman law； and professed it during the close of his life in the university of the capital of Berry。 The learned Cujas had； in spite of his sedentary pur… suits； led a very wandering life； he died at Bourges in the year 1590。 Sedentary pursuits is perhaps not exactly what I should call them； having read in the 〃Biographie Universelle〃 （sole source of my knowledge of the renowned Cujacius） that his usual manner of study was to spread himself on his belly on the floor。 He did not sit down； he lay down； and the 〃Biographie Universelle〃 has （for so grave a work） an amusing pic… ture of the short； fat； untidy scholar dragging himself _a plat ventre_ across his room； from one pile of books to the other。 The house in which these singular gym… nastics took place； and which is now the headquarters of the gendarmerie； is one of the most picturesque at Bourges。 Dilapidated and discolored； it has a charm… ing Renaissance front。 A high wall separates it from the street； and on this wall； which is divided by a large open gateway； are perched two overhanging turrets。 The open gateway admits you to the court； beyond which the melancholy mansion erects itself； decorated also with turrets； with fine old windows； and with a beautiful tone of faded red brick and rusty stone。 It is a charming encounter for a provincial by… street； one of those accidents in the hope of which the traveller with a propensity for sketching （whether on a little paper block or on the tablets of his brain） decides to turn a corner at a venture。 A brawny gen… darme； in his shirt…sleeves； was polishing his boots in the court； an ancient； knotted vine； forlorn of its clusters； hung itself over a doorway； and dropped its shadow on the rough grain of the wall。 The place was very sketchable。 I am sorry to say； however； that it was almost the only 〃bit。〃 Various other curious old houses are supposed to exist at Bourges； and I wandered vaguely about in search of them。 But I had little success； and I ended by becoming sceptical。 Bourges is a _ville de province_ in the full force of the term； especially as applied invidiously。 The streets； narrow； tortuous； and dirty； have very wide cobble… stones； the houses for the most part are shabby； with… out local color。 The look of things is neither modern nor antique； … a kind of mediocrity of middle age。 There is an enormous number of blank walls； … walls of gardens； of courts； of private houses … that avert themselves from the street； as if in natural chagrin at there being so little to see。 Round about is a dull； flat； featureless country； on which the magnificent cathedral looks down。 There is a peculiar dulness and ugliness in a French town of this type； which； I must immediately add； is not the most frequent one。 In Italy； everything has a charm； a color； a grace； even desolation and _ennui_。 In England a cathedral city may be sleepy； but it is pretty sure to be mellow。 In the course of six weeks spent _en province_； however； I saw few places that had not more expression than Bourges。
I went back to the cathedral； that； after all； was a feature。 Then I returned to my hotel； where it was time to dine； and sat down； as usual； with the _commis… voyageurs_； who cut their bread on their thumb and partook of every course； and after this repast I re… paired for a while to the cafe； which occupied a part of the basement of the inn and opened into its court。 This cafe was a friendly； homely； sociable spot； where it seemed the habit of the master of the establishment to _tutoyer_ his customers； and the practice of the cus… tomers to _tutoyer_ the waiter。 Under these circum… stances the waiter of course felt justified in sitting down at the same table with a gentleman who had come in and asked him for writing materials。 He served this gentleman with a horrible little portfolio； covered with shiny black cloth and accompanied with two sheets of thin paper； three wafers； and one of those instruments of torture which pass in France for pens； … these being the utensils invariably evoked by such a request； and then； finding himself at leisure； he placed himself opposite and began to write a letter of his own。 This trifling incident reminded me afresh that France is a democratic country。 I think I re… ceived an admonition to the same effect from the free； familiar way in which the game of whist was going on just behind me。 It was attended with a great deal of noisy pleasantry； flavored every now and then with a dash of irritation。 There was a young man of whom I made a note； he was such a beautiful specimen of his class。 Sometimes he was very facetious； chatter… ing； joking； punning； showing off； then； as the game went on and he lost； and had to pay the _consomma… tion_； he dropped his amia
