a little tour in france-第14章
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opposite side from Tours； and to go to it you will spend half an hour in the train。 You pass on the way the Chateau de Luynes； which； with its round towers catching the afternoon light； looks uncommonly well on a hill at a distance； you pass also the ruins of the castle of Cinq…Mars； the ancestral dwelling of the young favorite of Louis XIII。； the victim； of Richelieu； the hero of Alfred de Vigny's novel； which is usually re… commended to young ladies engaged in the study of French。 Langeais is very imposing and decidedly sombre； it marks the transition from the architecture of defence to that of elegance。 It rises； massive and perpendicular； out of the centre of the village to which it gives its name； and which it entirely domi… nates； so that； as you stand before it； in the crooked and empty street； there is no resource for you but to stare up at its heavy overhanging cornice and at the huge towers surmounted with extinguishers of slate。 If you follow this street to the end； however； you encounter in abundance the usual embellishments of a French village： little ponds or tanks； with women on their knees on the brink； pounding and thumping a lump of saturated linen； brown old crones； the tone of whose facial hide makes their nightcaps （worn by day） look dazzling； little alleys perforating the thick… ness of a row of cottages； and showing you behind； as a glimpse； the vividness of a green garden。 In the rear of the castle rises a hill which must formerly have been occupied by some of its appurtenances； and which indeed is still partly enclosed within its court。 You may walk round this eminence； which； with the small houses of the village at its base； shuts in the castle from behind。 The enclosure is not defiantly guarded； however； for a small； rough path； which you presently reach； leads up to an open gate。 This gate admits you to a vague and rather limited _parc_； which covers the crest of the hill； and through which you may walk into the gardens of castle。 These gardens； of small extent； confront the dark walls with their brilliant parterres； and； covering the gradual slope of the hill； form； as it were； the fourth side of the court。 This is the stateliest view of the chateau； which looks to you sufficiently grim and gray as； after asking leave of a neat young woman who sallies out to learn your errand； you sit there on a garden bench and take the measure of the three tall towers attached to this inner front and forming sever… ally the cage of a staircase。 The huge bracketed cor… nice （one of the features of Langeais） which is merely ornamental； as it is not machicolated； though it looks so； is continued on the inner face as well。 The whole thing has a fine feudal air； though it was erected on the rains of feudalism。
The main event in the history of the castle is the marriage of Anne of Brittany to her first husband； Charles VIII。； which took place in its great hall in 1491。 Into this great hall we were introduced by the neat young woman； … into this great hall and into sundry other halls； winding staircases； galleries； chambers。 The cicerone of Langeais is in too great a hurry； the fact is pointed out in the excellent Guide… Joanne。 This ill…dissimulated vice； however； is to be observed； in the country of the Loire； in every one who carries a key。 It is true that at Langeais there is no great occasion to indulge in the tourist's weak… ness of dawdling； for the apartments； though they contain many curious odds and ends of； antiquity； are not of first…rate interest。 They are cold and musty； indeed； with that touching smell of old furniture； as all apartments should be through which the insatiate American wanders in the rear of a bored domestic； pausing to stare at a faded tapestry or to read the name on the frame of some simpering portrait。
To return to Tours my companion and I had counted on a train which （as is not uncommon in France） existed only in the 〃Indicateur des Chemins de Fer；〃 and instead of waiting for another we engaged a vehicle to take us home。 A sorry _carriole_ or _patache_ it proved to be； with the accessories of a lumbering white mare and a little wizened； ancient peasant； who had put on； in honor of the occasion； a new blouse of extraordinary stiffness and blueness。 We hired the trap of an energetic woman who put it 〃to〃 with her own hands； women in Touraine and the B1esois appearing to have the best of it in the business of letting vehicles； as well as in many other industries。 There is； in fact； no branch of human activity in which one is not liable； in France； to find a woman engaged。 Women； indeed； are not priests； but priests are； more or less； women。 They are not in the army； it may be said； but then they _are_ the army。 They are very formidable。 In France one must count with the women。 The drive back from Langeais to Tours was long； slow； cold； we had an occasional spatter of rain。 But the road passes most of the way close to the Loire； and there was some… thing in our jog…trot through the darkening land； beside the flowing； river； which it was very possible to enjoy。
X。
The consequence of my leaving to the last my little mention of Loches is that space and opportunity fail me； and yet a brief and hurried account of that extra… ordinary spot would after all be in best agreement with my visit。 We snatched a fearful joy； my companion and I； the afternoon we took the train for Loches。 The weather this time had been terribly against us： again and again a day that promised fair became hope… lessly foul after lunch。 At last we determined that if we could not make this excursion in the sunshine； we would make it with the aid of our umbrellas。 We grasped them firmly and started for the station； where we were detained an unconscionable time by the evolu… tions； outside； of certain trains laden with liberated （and exhilarated） conscripts； who； their term of service ended； were about to be restored to civil life。 The trains in Touraine are provoking； they serve as little as possible for excursions。 If they convey you one way at the right hour； it is on the condition of bring… ing you back at the wrong； they either allow you far too little time to examine the castle or the ruin； or they leave you planted in front of it for periods that outlast curiosity。 They are perverse； capricious； ex… asperating。 It was a question of our having but an hour or two at Loches； and we could ill afford to sacri… fice to accidents。 One of the accidents； however； was that the rain stopped before we got there； leaving be… hind it a moist mildness of temperature and a cool and lowering sky； which were in perfect agreement with the gray old city。 Loches is certainly one of the greatest impressions of the traveller in central France； … the largest cluster of curious things that presents itself to his sight。 It rises above the valley of the Indre； the charming stream set in meadows and sedges； which wanders through the province of Berry and through many of the novels of Madame George Sand； lifting from the summit of a hill； which it covers to the base； a confusion of terraces； ramparts； towers； and spires。 Having but little time； as I say； we scaled the hill amain； and wandered briskly through this labyrinth of antiquities。 The rain had decidedly stopped； and save that we had our train on our minds； we saw Loches to the best advantage。 We enjoyed that sensation with which the conscientious tourist is … or ought to be … well acquainted； and for which； at any rate； he has a formula in his rough…and…ready language。 We 〃experienced；〃 as they say； （most odious of verbs！） an 〃agreeable disappointment。〃 We were surprised and delighted； we had not suspected that Loches was so good。
I hardly know what is best there： the strange and impressive little collegial church； with its romanesque atrium or narthex； its doorways covered with primitive sculpture of the richest kind； its treasure of a so…called pagan altar； embossed with fighting warriors； its three pyramidal domes； so unexpected； so sinister； which I have not met elsewhere； in church architecture； or the huge square keep； of the eleventh century； … the most cliff…like tower I remember； whose immeasurable thick… ness I did not penetrate； or
