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第15章

essays on life, art and science-第15章

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positively that it is either good or bad。  There is a good bust of a
man; matching the one in the Birth of the Virgin chapel; which is
said to be a portrait of Giovanni d'Enrico; but it is not known whom
it represents。

Outside the church; in three contiguous cells that form part of the
foundations; are:…


1。  A dead Christ; the head of which is very impressive while the
rest of the figure is poor。  I examined the treatment of the hair;
which is terra…cotta; and compared it with all other like hair in
the chapels above described; I could find nothing like it; and think
it most likely that Giacomo Ferro did the figure; and got Tabachetti
to do the head; or that they brought the head from some unused
figure by Tabachetti at Varallo; for I know no other artist of the
time and neighbourhood who could have done it。

2。  A Magdalene in the desert。  The desert is a little coal…cellar
of an arch; containing a skull and a profusion of pink and white
paper bouquets; the two largest of which the Magdalene is hugging
while she is saying her prayers。  She is a very self…sufficient
lady; who we may be sure will not stay in the desert a day longer
than she can help; and while there will flirt even with the skull if
she can find nothing better to flirt with。  I cannot think that her
repentance is as yet genuine; and as for her praying there is no
object in her doing so; for she does not want anything。

3。  In the next desert there is a very beautiful figure of St。 John
the Baptist kneeling and looking upwards。  This figure puzzles me
more than any other at Montrigone; it appears to be of the fifteenth
rather than the sixteenth century; it hardly reminds me of
Gaudenzio; and still less of any other Valsesian artist。  It is a
work of unusual beauty; but I can form no idea as to its authorship。


I wrote the foregoing pages in the church at Montrigone itself;
having brought my camp…stool with me。  It was Sunday; the church was
open all day; but there was no mass said; and hardly any one came。
The sacristan was a kind; gentle; little old man; who let me do
whatever I wanted。  He sat on the doorstep of the main door; mending
vestments; and to this end was cutting up a fine piece of figured
silk from one to two hundred years old; which; if I could have got
it; for half its value; I should much like to have bought。  I sat in
the cool of the church while he sat in the doorway; which was still
in shadow; snipping and snipping; and then sewing; I am sure with
admirable neatness。  He made a charming picture; with the arched
portico over his head; the green grass and low church wall behind
him; and then a lovely landscape of wood and pasture and valleys and
hillside。  Every now and then he would come and chirrup about
Joachim; for he was pained and shocked at my having said that his
Joachim was some one else and not Joachim at all。  I said I was very
sorry; but I was afraid the figure was a woman。  He asked me what he
was to do。  He had known it; man and boy; this sixty years; and had
always shown it as St。 Joachim; he had never heard any one but
myself question his ascription; and could not suddenly change his
mind about it at the bidding of a stranger。  At the same time he
felt it was a very serious thing to continue showing it as the
Virgin's father if it was really her grandmother。  I told him I
thought this was a case for his spiritual director; and that if he
felt uncomfortable about it he should consult his parish priest and
do as he was told。

On leaving Montrigone; with a pleasant sense of having made
acquaintance with a new and; in many respects; interesting work; I
could not get the sacristan and our difference of opinion out of my
head。  What; I asked myself; are the differences that unhappily
divide Christendom; and what are those that divide Christendom from
modern schools of thought; but a seeing of Joachims as the Virgin's
grandmothers on a larger scale?  True; we cannot call figures
Joachim when we know perfectly well that they are nothing of the
kind; but I registered a vow that henceforward when I called
Joachims the Virgin's grandmothers I would bear more in mind than I
have perhaps always hitherto done; how hard it is for those who have
been taught to see them as Joachims to think of them as something
different。  I trust that I have not been unfaithful to this vow in
the preceding article。  If the reader differs from me; let me ask
him to remember how hard it is for one who has got a figure well
into his head as the Virgin's grandmother to see it as Joachim。



A MEDIEVAL GIRL SCHOOL {8}



This last summer I revisited Oropa; near Biella; to see what
connection I could find between the Oropa chapels and those at
Varallo。  I will take this opportunity of describing the chapels at
Oropa; and more especially the remarkable fossil; or petrified girl
school; commonly known as the Dimora; or Sojourn of the Virgin Mary
in the Temple。

If I do not take these works so seriously as the reader may expect;
let me beg him; before he blames me; to go to Oropa and see the
originals for himself。  Have the good people of Oropa themselves
taken them very seriously?  Are we in an atmosphere where we need be
at much pains to speak with bated breath?  We; as is well known;
love to take even our pleasures sadly; the Italians take even their
sadness allegramente; and combine devotion with amusement in a
manner that we shall do well to study if not imitate。  For this best
agrees with what we gather to have been the custom of Christ
himself; who; indeed; never speaks of austerity but to condemn it。
If Christianity is to be a living faith; it must penetrate a man's
whole life; so that he can no more rid himself of it than he can of
his flesh and bones or of his breathing。  The Christianity that can
be taken up and laid down as if it were a watch or a book is
Christianity in name only。  The true Christian can no more part from
Christ in mirth than in sorrow。  And; after all; what is the essence
of Christianity?  What is the kernel of the nut?  Surely common
sense and cheerfulness; with unflinching opposition to the
charlatanisms and Pharisaisms of a man's own times。  The essence of
Christianity lies neither in dogma; nor yet in abnormally holy life;
but in faith in an unseen world; in doing one's duty; in speaking
the truth; in finding the true life rather in others than in
oneself; and in the certain hope that he who loses his life on these
behalfs finds more than he has lost。  What can Agnosticism do
against such Christianity as this?  I should be shocked if anything
I had ever written or shall ever write should seem to make light of
these things。  I should be shocked also if I did not know how to be
amused with things that amiable people obviously intended to be
amusing。

The reader may need to be reminded that Oropa is among the somewhat
infrequent sanctuaries at which the Madonna and infant Christ are
not white; but black。  I shall return to this peculiarity of Oropa
later on; but will leave it for the present。  For the general
characteristics of the place I must refer the reader to my book;
〃Alps and Sanctuaries。〃 {9}  I propose to confine myself here to the
ten or a dozen chapels containing life…sized terra…cotta figures;
painted up to nature; that form one of the main features of the
place。  At a first glance; perhaps; all these chapels will seem
uninteresting; I venture to think; however; that some; if not most
of them; though falling a good deal short of the best work at
Varallo and Crea; are still in their own way of considerable
importance。  The first chapel with which we need concern ourselves
is numbered 4; and shows the Conception of the Virgin Mary。  It
represents St。 Anne as kneeling before a terrific dragon or; as the
Italians call it; 〃insect;〃 about the size of a Crystal Palace
pleiosaur。  This 〃insect〃 is supposed to have just had its head
badly crushed by St。 Anne; who seems to be begging its pardon。  The
text 〃Ipsa conteret caput tuum〃 is written outside the chapel。  The
figures have no artistic interest。  As regards dragons being called
insects; the reader may perhaps remember that the island of S。
Giu

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