the letters-2-第33章
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think only the more。 It was a European peasant: dirty; bigoted;
untruthful; unwise; tricky; but superb with generosity; residual
candour and fundamental good…humour: convince him he had done
wrong (it might take hours of insult) and he would undo what he had
done and like his corrector better。 A man; with all the grime and
paltriness of mankind; but a saint and hero all the more for that。
The place as regards scenery is grand; gloomy; and bleak。 Mighty
mountain walls descending sheer along the whole face of the island
into a sea unusually deep; the front of the mountain ivied and
furred with clinging forest; one viridescent cliff: about half…way
from east to west; the low; bare; stony promontory edged in between
the cliff and the ocean; the two little towns (Kalawao and
Kalaupapa) seated on either side of it; as bare almost as bathing
machines upon a beach; and the population … gorgons and chimaeras
dire。 All this tear of the nerves I bore admirably; and the day
after I got away; rode twenty miles along the opposite coast and up
into the mountains: they call it twenty; I am doubtful of the
figures: I should guess it nearer twelve; but let me take credit
for what residents allege; and I was riding again the day after; so
I need say no more about health。 Honolulu does not agree with me
at all: I am always out of sorts there; with slight headache;
blood to the head; etc。 I had a good deal of work to do and did it
with miserable difficulty; and yet all the time I have been gaining
strength; as you see; which is highly encouraging。 By the time I
am done with this cruise I shall have the material for a very
singular book of travels: names of strange stories and characters;
cannibals; pirates; ancient legends; old Polynesian poetry; … never
was so generous a farrago。 I am going down now to get the story of
a shipwrecked family; who were fifteen months on an island with a
murderer: there is a specimen。 The Pacific is a strange place;
the nineteenth century only exists there in spots: all round; it
is a no man's land of the ages; a stir…about of epochs and races;
barbarisms and civilisations; virtues and crimes。
It is good of you to let me stay longer; but if I had known how ill
you were; I should be now on my way home。 I had chartered my
schooner and made all arrangements before (at last) we got definite
news。 I feel highly guilty; I should be back to insult and worry
you a little。 Our address till further notice is to be c/o R。
Towns and Co。; Sydney。 That is final: I only got the arrangement
made yesterday; but you may now publish it abroad。 … Yours ever;
R。 L。 S。
Letter: TO JAMES PAYN
HONOLULU; H。I。; JUNE 13TH; 1889。
MY DEAR JAMES PAYN; … I get sad news of you here at my offsetting
for further voyages: I wish I could say what I feel。 Sure there
was never any man less deserved this calamity; for I have heard you
speak time and again; and I remember nothing that was unkind;
nothing that was untrue; nothing that was not helpful; from your
lips。 It is the ill…talkers that should hear no more。 God knows;
I know no word of consolation; but I do feel your trouble。 You are
the more open to letters now; let me talk to you for two pages。 I
have nothing but happiness to tell; and you may bless God you are a
man so sound…hearted that (even in the freshness of your calamity)
I can come to you with my own good fortune unashamed and secure of
sympathy。 It is a good thing to be a good man; whether deaf or
whether dumb; and of all our fellow…craftsmen (whom yet they count
a jealous race); I never knew one but gave you the name of honesty
and kindness: come to think of it gravely; this is better than the
finest hearing。 We are all on the march to deafness; blindness;
and all conceivable and fatal disabilities; we shall not all get
there with a report so good。 My good news is a health
astonishingly reinstated。 This climate; these voyagings; these
landfalls at dawn; new islands peaking from the morning bank; new
forested harbours; new passing alarms of squalls and surf; new
interests of gentle natives; … the whole tale of my life is better
to me than any poem。
I am fresh just now from the leper settlement of Molokai; playing
croquet with seven leper girls; sitting and yarning with old;
blind; leper beachcombers in the hospital; sickened with the
spectacle of abhorrent suffering and deformation amongst the
patients; touched to the heart by the sight of lovely and effective
virtues in their helpers: no stranger time have I ever had; nor
any so moving。 I do not think it a little thing to be deaf; God
knows; and God defend me from the same! … but to be a leper; of one
of the self…condemned; how much more awful! and yet there's a way
there also。 'There are Molokais everywhere;' said Mr。 Dutton;
Father Damien's dresser; you are but new landed in yours; and my
dear and kind adviser; I wish you; with all my soul; that patience
and courage which you will require。 Think of me meanwhile on a
trading schooner; bound for the Gilbert Islands; thereafter for the
Marshalls; with a diet of fish and cocoanut before me; bound on a
cruise of … well; of investigation to what islands we can reach;
and to get (some day or other) to Sydney; where a letter addressed
to the care of R。 Towns & Co。 will find me sooner or later; and if
it contain any good news; whether of your welfare or the courage
with which you bear the contrary; will do me good。 … Yours
affectionately (although so near a stranger);
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter: TO SIDNEY COLVIN
SCHOONER 'EQUATOR;' APAIANG LAGOON; AUGUST 22ND; 1889。
MY DEAR COLVIN; … The missionary ship is outside the reef trying
(vainly) to get in; so I may have a chance to get a line off。 I am
glad to say I shall be home by June next for the summer; or we
shall know the reason why。 For God's sake be well and jolly for
the meeting。 I shall be; I believe; a different character from
what you have seen this long while。 This cruise is up to now a
huge success; being interesting; pleasant; and profitable。 The
beachcomber is perhaps the most interesting character here; the
natives are very different; on the whole; from Polynesians: they
are moral; stand…offish (for good reasons); and protected by a dark
tongue。 It is delightful to meet the few Hawaiians (mostly
missionaries) that are dotted about; with their Italian BRIO and
their ready friendliness。 The whites are a strange lot; many of
them good; kind; pleasant fellows; others quite the lowest I have
ever seen even in the slums of cities。 I wish I had time to
narrate to you the doings and character of three white murderers
(more or less proven) I have met。 One; the only undoubted assassin
of the lot; quite gained my affection in his big home out of a
wreck; with his New Hebrides wife in her savage turban of hair and
yet a perfect lady; and his three adorable little girls in Rob Roy
Macgregor dresses; dancing to the hand organ; performing circus on
the floor with startling effects of nudity; and curling up together
on a mat to sleep; three sizes; three attitudes; three Rob Roy
dresses; and six little clenched fists: the murderer meanwhile
brooding and gloating over his chicks; till your whole heart went
out to him; and yet his crime on the face of it was dark:
disembowelling; in his own house; an old man of seventy; and him
drunk。
It is lunch…time; I see; and I must close up with my warmest love
to you。 I wish you were here to sit upon me when required。 Ah! if
you were but a good sailor! I will never leave the sea; I think;
it is only there that a Briton lives: my poor grandfather; it is
from him I inherit the taste; I fancy; and he was round many
islands in his day; but I; please God; shall beat him