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第33章

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think only the more。  It was a European peasant:  dirty; bigoted; 

untruthful; unwise; tricky; but superb with generosity; residual 

candour and fundamental good…humour:  convince him he had done 

wrong (it might take hours of insult) and he would undo what he had 

done and like his corrector better。  A man; with all the grime and 

paltriness of mankind; but a saint and hero all the more for that。  

The place as regards scenery is grand; gloomy; and bleak。  Mighty 

mountain walls descending sheer along the whole face of the island 

into a sea unusually deep; the front of the mountain ivied and 

furred with clinging forest; one viridescent cliff:  about half…way 

from east to west; the low; bare; stony promontory edged in between 

the cliff and the ocean; the two little towns (Kalawao and 

Kalaupapa) seated on either side of it; as bare almost as bathing 

machines upon a beach; and the population … gorgons and chimaeras 

dire。  All this tear of the nerves I bore admirably; and the day 

after I got away; rode twenty miles along the opposite coast and up 

into the mountains:  they call it twenty; I am doubtful of the 

figures:  I should guess it nearer twelve; but let me take credit 

for what residents allege; and I was riding again the day after; so 

I need say no more about health。  Honolulu does not agree with me 

at all:  I am always out of sorts there; with slight headache; 

blood to the head; etc。  I had a good deal of work to do and did it 

with miserable difficulty; and yet all the time I have been gaining 

strength; as you see; which is highly encouraging。  By the time I 

am done with this cruise I shall have the material for a very 

singular book of travels:  names of strange stories and characters; 

cannibals; pirates; ancient legends; old Polynesian poetry; … never 

was so generous a farrago。  I am going down now to get the story of 

a shipwrecked family; who were fifteen months on an island with a 

murderer:  there is a specimen。  The Pacific is a strange place; 

the nineteenth century only exists there in spots:  all round; it 

is a no man's land of the ages; a stir…about of epochs and races; 

barbarisms and civilisations; virtues and crimes。



It is good of you to let me stay longer; but if I had known how ill 

you were; I should be now on my way home。  I had chartered my 

schooner and made all arrangements before (at last) we got definite 

news。  I feel highly guilty; I should be back to insult and worry 

you a little。  Our address till further notice is to be c/o R。 

Towns and Co。; Sydney。  That is final:  I only got the arrangement 

made yesterday; but you may now publish it abroad。 … Yours ever;



R。 L。 S。







Letter:  TO JAMES PAYN







HONOLULU; H。I。; JUNE 13TH; 1889。



MY DEAR JAMES PAYN; … I get sad news of you here at my offsetting 

for further voyages:  I wish I could say what I feel。  Sure there 

was never any man less deserved this calamity; for I have heard you 

speak time and again; and I remember nothing that was unkind; 

nothing that was untrue; nothing that was not helpful; from your 

lips。  It is the ill…talkers that should hear no more。  God knows; 

I know no word of consolation; but I do feel your trouble。  You are 

the more open to letters now; let me talk to you for two pages。  I 

have nothing but happiness to tell; and you may bless God you are a 

man so sound…hearted that (even in the freshness of your calamity) 

I can come to you with my own good fortune unashamed and secure of 

sympathy。  It is a good thing to be a good man; whether deaf or 

whether dumb; and of all our fellow…craftsmen (whom yet they count 

a jealous race); I never knew one but gave you the name of honesty 

and kindness:  come to think of it gravely; this is better than the 

finest hearing。  We are all on the march to deafness; blindness; 

and all conceivable and fatal disabilities; we shall not all get 

there with a report so good。  My good news is a health 

astonishingly reinstated。  This climate; these voyagings; these 

landfalls at dawn; new islands peaking from the morning bank; new 

forested harbours; new passing alarms of squalls and surf; new 

interests of gentle natives; … the whole tale of my life is better 

to me than any poem。



I am fresh just now from the leper settlement of Molokai; playing 

croquet with seven leper girls; sitting and yarning with old; 

blind; leper beachcombers in the hospital; sickened with the 

spectacle of abhorrent suffering and deformation amongst the 

patients; touched to the heart by the sight of lovely and effective 

virtues in their helpers:  no stranger time have I ever had; nor 

any so moving。  I do not think it a little thing to be deaf; God 

knows; and God defend me from the same! … but to be a leper; of one 

of the self…condemned; how much more awful! and yet there's a way 

there also。  'There are Molokais everywhere;' said Mr。 Dutton; 

Father Damien's dresser; you are but new landed in yours; and my 

dear and kind adviser; I wish you; with all my soul; that patience 

and courage which you will require。  Think of me meanwhile on a 

trading schooner; bound for the Gilbert Islands; thereafter for the 

Marshalls; with a diet of fish and cocoanut before me; bound on a 

cruise of … well; of investigation to what islands we can reach; 

and to get (some day or other) to Sydney; where a letter addressed 

to the care of R。 Towns & Co。 will find me sooner or later; and if 

it contain any good news; whether of your welfare or the courage 

with which you bear the contrary; will do me good。 … Yours 

affectionately (although so near a stranger);



ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。







Letter:  TO SIDNEY COLVIN







SCHOONER 'EQUATOR;' APAIANG LAGOON; AUGUST 22ND; 1889。



MY DEAR COLVIN; … The missionary ship is outside the reef trying 

(vainly) to get in; so I may have a chance to get a line off。  I am 

glad to say I shall be home by June next for the summer; or we 

shall know the reason why。  For God's sake be well and jolly for 

the meeting。  I shall be; I believe; a different character from 

what you have seen this long while。  This cruise is up to now a 

huge success; being interesting; pleasant; and profitable。  The 

beachcomber is perhaps the most interesting character here; the 

natives are very different; on the whole; from Polynesians:  they 

are moral; stand…offish (for good reasons); and protected by a dark 

tongue。  It is delightful to meet the few Hawaiians (mostly 

missionaries) that are dotted about; with their Italian BRIO and 

their ready friendliness。  The whites are a strange lot; many of 

them good; kind; pleasant fellows; others quite the lowest I have 

ever seen even in the slums of cities。  I wish I had time to 

narrate to you the doings and character of three white murderers 

(more or less proven) I have met。  One; the only undoubted assassin 

of the lot; quite gained my affection in his big home out of a 

wreck; with his New Hebrides wife in her savage turban of hair and 

yet a perfect lady; and his three adorable little girls in Rob Roy 

Macgregor dresses; dancing to the hand organ; performing circus on 

the floor with startling effects of nudity; and curling up together 

on a mat to sleep; three sizes; three attitudes; three Rob Roy 

dresses; and six little clenched fists:  the murderer meanwhile 

brooding and gloating over his chicks; till your whole heart went 

out to him; and yet his crime on the face of it was dark:  

disembowelling; in his own house; an old man of seventy; and him 

drunk。



It is lunch…time; I see; and I must close up with my warmest love 

to you。  I wish you were here to sit upon me when required。  Ah! if 

you were but a good sailor!  I will never leave the sea; I think; 

it is only there that a Briton lives:  my poor grandfather; it is 

from him I inherit the taste; I fancy; and he was round many 

islands in his day; but I; please God; shall beat him

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