the golden chersonese and the way thither-第77章
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when the chaff is driven away by the wind。 It is husked by a pestle；
and it requires some skill to avoid crushing the grain。 All these
operations are performed by women。
The Perak Malays don't like working for other people； but some of them
cultivate sugar…cane and maize for sale。 Even for clearing jungle…land
foreign labor has to be resorted to。
Ah； that swamp is a doleful region！ One cannot tell where it ends and
where the jungle begins； and dark； heavy； ominous…looking clouds
generally concealed the forest…covered hills which are not far off。 I
almost felt the redundancy of vegetation to be oppressive； and the
redundancy of insect and reptile life certainly was so； swarms of
living creatures leaped in and out of the water； bigger ones hidden
from view splashed heavily； and a few blackish； slug…like looking
reptiles； which drew blood； and hung on for an hour or two； attached
themselves to my ankles。 I was amused when Captain Walker congratulated
himself on the absence of leeches； for these blood…suckers were at
least their next of kin。 I fell down into the water twice from the
submerged ridge that I tried to walk upon； but there is no risk of cold
from a hot bath in a stove。
Then we came to a smothered； reedy； ditch…like stream； in which was an
old 〃dug…out〃 half full of water； in which we managed to stow
ourselves； and by careful balancing contrived to keep its edges just
above the water。 Our impeded progress down this ditch startled myriads
of whirring； splashing creatures。 The ditch opened into a reedy swamp
where hideous pink water buffaloes were wallowing and enjoying
themselves； but on the report of a gun they all plunged into deep water
and swam away； except for their big horns； looking more like
hippopotami than bovine quadrupeds。 They are nearly as ugly as a
rhinoceros； all albino animals are ugly； and when these are wet their
hides are a bright salmon pink。
The swamp merged itself into a lotus lake； covered over much of its
extent with thousands of noble leaves and rose…pink blossoms。 It
seemed almost sacrilege to tear and bruise and break them and push
rudely through them in our canoe。 A sadder and lonelier scene could not
be。 I have seldom been more powerfully affected by nature。 The lake
lying in hot mist under dark clouds； with the swamp and jungle on one
side and an absolutely impenetrable wall of entangled trees and
trailers on the other； so dense and matted that before putting one's
feet on shore space would have to be cut for them with a parang； seemed
as if it must be a hundred miles from the abodes of men； and as if
nobody had ever been there before or ever would be there again。 The
heavy mist lifted； showing mountains； range beyond range；
forest…covered； extending back into the heart of the peninsula； and
though the highest may be under five thousand feet in height； yet from
their shape； and from rising so near the sea…level； and from the woolly
mists which hung round their bases； and from something in the gray； sad
atmosphere； they looked fully ten thousand feet high。
Captain Walker climbed into a low tree which overhung the lake to look
out for teal and widgeon； which were perfectly innumerable； while the
Malays； never uttering a word； silently poled the boat over the dreary
lake in the dreary evening to put up the birds。 There they went high
over our heads in long flights； and every time there was the report of
a gun there were screams and shrieks and squawks； and myriads of birds
rose out of their reedy covers； and fish splashed； and the smoke lay
heavily on the water； and then all was silent again。 Any place more
solitary and apparently isolated could not be imaginedit was a most
pathetic scene。 Hazy visions of the mere near which King Arthur lay
dying came before my eyes。 If I had seen the solemn boat with 〃the
three fair queens；〃 in 〃robes of samite； mystic； wonderful；〃 I should
not have been surprised； nor would it have been odd if the lake had
changed into the Styx； across which I was being ferried； a cold；
colorless shade。 To and fro； up and down； we poled over the tragic
waters till I actually felt a terror far beyond eeriness taking
possession of me。
It grew grayer and darker； and we went back for Captain Walker； who；
with the absorption of a true sportsman； had hardly noticed the falling
shadows。 It was a relief to hear the human voice once more。 It broke
the worst spell I was ever bound by。 As he came out on the branch to
get into the canoe it gave way； and he fell into the water up to his
chin。 Then the boat pole broke； so that when we got back to the padi it
was obvious that 〃the dark〃 was coming 〃at one stride；〃 and I suggested
that； as we had two miles to walk and a river to cross at night； and we
should certainly be very late for dinner； Mr。 Low might become uneasy
about us； as we were both strangers and unable to speak the language；
but Captain Walker thought differently。
There had been so much rain that it was heavy wading through the padi；
and it was quite dark when we reached the jungle； in which the rain had
made the footing very precarious； and in darkness we forded the swollen
stream； and stumbled along the shore of the Perak； where fireflies in
thousands were flashing among the bushesa beautiful sight。 When we
reached the bank of the river where we had left the canoe we found
several Malays； who laughed and seemed singularly pleased to see us；
and talked vociferously to our men； i。e。； vociferously for Malays； who
are in the habit of speaking quietly。 It was very difficult to get down
the steep； slippery bank； into a precarious canoe which I could not
see； and so thick was the darkness that I sat down in the water between
the two gridirons； and had to remain there during the crossing； which
took a long time； being against the stream。
When we landed； a Sikh sergeant met us； very much excited。 He spoke
Malayan； and I guessed from a few words that I knew that there was a
hue and cry at the Residency。 You know how all pleasure is at once
spoiled when； after you have been enjoying yourself very much； you find
that people at home have been restless and uneasy about you； and as it
is one of my traveling principles to avoid being a bother to people； I
was very sorry。 We found a general state of perturbation。 Major
Swinburne； who was leaning over the veranda； received us with some very
pungent objurgations； and told us that Mr。 Low was out and very
anxious。 I was covered with mire； and wet from head to foot； and
disappeared； but when we sat down to the long…delayed dinner I saw from
Mr。 Low's silence and gloomy manner that he had been really much
annoyed； however； he recovered himself； and we had a very lively
evening of conversation and discussion； though I had a good deal of
pain from the inflamed bites of the bloodsuckers in the swamp。 Malay
scouting parties had been sent in various directions。 Rajah Dris was
away with one； and the Sikh police were all ready to do nobody knows
what； as there were no dogs。 Major Swinburne said that his fears did
not travel farther than the river； which he thinks is dangerous to
cross at night in a 〃dug…out；〃 but Mr。 Low had before him the
possibility of our having been assailed by bad characters； or of our
having encountered a tiger in the jungle； and of my having been carried
off from my inability to climb a tree！
Eblis is surely dying。 He went to the roof； where the half…tamed
siamang was supporting him hour after hour as gently as a mother would
support a sick child。 This wild ape has been very gentle and good to
Eblis ever since he became ill。 I went out for a short time with Mr。
Low； and on returning he called Eblis； but the little thing was too
weak to come； and began to cry feebly； on which the wild ape took him
by one of his hands； put an arm round him； gently led him to a place
from which he could drop upon Mr。 Low's chair； and then darted away；
but while daylight lasted was looking anxiously at Eblis； and at 6 A。M。
had so far conquered his timidity that he sat on the window…sill behind
Mr。 Low； that he might watch his sick friend。 The little bewitching
thing； which is much emaciated； clings to its master now t
