the golden chersonese and the way thither-第66章
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in changing guard； from a dream that the Sikhs had mutinied and were
about to massacre the Europeans； myself included！ We had bananas and
chocolate； and just at daybreak walked down the hill； where I got into
a little trap drawn by a fiery little Sumatra pony； and driven by Mr。
Gibbons； a worthy Australian miner who is here road…making； and was
taken five miles to a place where the road becomes a quagmire not to be
crossed。 Elephants had been telegraphed for to meet me there； but the
telegraph was found to be broken。 Mr。 Maxwell； who accompanied us on
horseback； had sent a messenger on here for elephants； and was dismayed
on getting to the quagmire to meet the news that they had gone to the
jungle； so there was no means of conveyance but the small pachyderm
which was bringing my bag； and which was more than two hours behind。
There was nothing for it but to walk； and we tramped for four miles。 I
could not have done the half of it had I not had my 〃mountain dress〃
on； the identical mud…colored tweed； in which I waded through the mud
of Northern Japan。 The sun had risen splendidly among crimson clouds；
which； having turned gray； were a slight screen； and the air is so
comparatively dry that； though within 5 degrees of the equator； it was
not oppressively hot。
The drive had brought us out of the Chinese country into a region very
thinly peopled by Malays only； here and there along the roadside；
living in houses of all Malay styles； from the little attap cabin with
its gridiron floor supported on stilts； to the large picturesque house
with steep brown roofs； deep eaves and porches； and walls of matting or
bamboo basket work in squares； light and dark alternately； reached by
ladders with rungs eighteen inches apart； so difficult for shod feet。
The trees and plants of the jungle were very exciting。 Ah！ what a
delight it is to see trees and plants at home which one has only seen
as the exotics of a hothouse； or read of in books！ In the day's journey
I counted one hundred and twenty…six differing trees and shrubs；
fifty…three trailers； seventeen epiphytes； and twenty…eight ferns。 I
saw more of the shrubs and epiphytes than I have yet done from the
altitude of an elephant's back。 There was one Asplenium nidus ＇bird's
nest fern＇ which had thirty…seven perfect fronds radiating from a
centre； each frond from three and a quarter to five and a half feet
long； and varying from myrtle to the freshest tint of pea…green！
There was an orchid with hardly visible leaves； which bore six crowded
clusters of flowers close to the branch of the tree on which it grew；
each cluster composed of a number of spikes of red coral tipped with
pale green。 In the openings there were small trees with gorgeous
erythrina…like flowers； glowing begonias； red lilies； a trailer with
trumpet…shaped blossoms of canary yellow； and a smaller trailer； which
climbs over everything that is not high； entwining itself with the blue
Thunbergia； and bearing on single stalks single blossoms；
primrose…shaped； of a salmon orange color with a velvety black centre。
In some places one came upon three varieties of nepenthes or 〃monkey
cups；〃 some of their pitchers holding （I should think） a pint of fluid；
and most of them packed with the skeletons of betrayed guests； then in
moist places upon steel blue aspleniums and luxuriant selaginellas； and
then came caelogynes with white blossoms； white flowered dendrobiums
（crumentatum？）； all growing on or clinging to trees； with
scarlet…veined bauhinias； caladiums； ginger worts； and aroids；
inclining one to make incessant exclamations of wonder and delight。 You
cannot imagine how crowded together this tropical vegetation is。 There
is not room for half of it on the ground； so it seeks and finds its
home high up on the strong； majestic trees which bear it up into the
sunshine； where； indeed one has to look for most of the flowers。
It is glorious to see the vegetation of eternal summer and the lavish
prodigality of nature； and one revels among hothouse plants 〃at home；〃
and all the splendor of gigantic leaves； and the beauty and grace of
palms； bamboos； and tree…ferns； the great； gaudy flowers are as
marvelous as the gaudy plumaged birds； and I feel that no words can
convey an idea of the beauty and magnificence of an equatorial jungle；
but the very permanence of the beauty is almost a fault。 I should soon
come to long for the burst of spring with its general tenderness of
green； and its great broad splashes of sociable flowers； its masses of
buttercups； or ox…eye daisies； or dandelions； and for the glories of
autumn with its red and gold； and leagues of purple heather。 These
splendid orchids and other epiphytes grow singly。 One sees one and not
another； there are no broad masses of color to blaze in the distance；
the scents are heavy and overpowering； the wealth is embarrassing。 I
revel in it all and rejoice in it all； it is intoxicating； yet I am
haunted with visions of mossy banks starred with primroses and
anemones； of stream sides blue with gentian； of meadows golden with
buttercups； and fields scarlet with poppies； and in spite of my
enjoyment and tropical enthusiasm； I agree with Mr。 Wallace and others
that the flowers of a temperate climate would give one more lasting
pleasure。
On either side of the road the ground is densely carpeted with the
sensitive plant； whose lovely tripartite leaves are green above and
brown below。 It is a fascinating plant； and at first one feels guilty
of cruelty if one does more than look at it； but I have already
learned； as all people do here； to take delight in wounding its
sensibilities。 Touch any part of a leaf ever so lightly； and as quick
as thought it folds up。 Touch the centre of the three ever so lightly；
and leaf and stalk fall smitten。 Touch a branch and every leaf closes；
and every stalk falls as if weighted with lead。 Walk over it； and you
seem to have blasted the earth with a fiery tread； leaving desolation
behind。 Every trailing plant falls； the leaves closing； show only their
red…brown backs； and all the beauty has vanished； but the burned and
withered…looking earth is as fair as ever the next morning。
After walking for four miles we came upon a glorious sight at a turn of
the road； a small lake behind which the mountains rise forest…covered；
with a slope at their feet on which stand the cocoa…nut groves； and the
beautiful Malay house of the exiled Mentri of Larut。 I have written of
a lake； but no water was visible； for it was concealed by thousands and
thousands of the peltate leaves of the lotus； nearly round； attaining a
diameter of eighteen inches； cool and dewy…looking under the torrid
sun； with a blue bloom upon their intense green。 Above them rose
thousands of lotus flowers； buds； and seed…vessels； each one a thing of
perfect beauty； and not a withered blossom was to be seen。 The immense
corollas varied in color from a deep rose crimson to a pink as pale as
that of a blush rose。 Some were just opening； others were half open；
and others wide open； showing the crowded golden stamens and the golden
disk in the centre。 From far off the deep rose pink of the glorious
blossoms is to be seen； and their beauty carried me back to the castle
moats of Yedo； and to many a gilded shrine in Japan； on which the lotus
blooms as an emblem of purity； righteousness； and immortality。 Even
here； where no such symbolism attaches to it； it looks a sacred thing。
It was delightful to see such a sociable flower rejoicing in a crowd。
Beyond is the picturesque kampong of Matang； with many good houses and
a mosque。 Passing through a gateway with brick posts； we entered a
large walled inclosure containing a cocoa…grove； some fine trees； and
the beautiful dwellings of the Malay whom we have deported to the
Seychelles。 This is one of the largest Malay houses on the peninsula。
It is built of wood painted green and white； with bold floral designs
on a white ground round some of the circular windows； and a very large
porch for followers to wait in； up a ladder of course。 In a shed there
were three gharries； and behind the house several small houses for
slaves and others。 A number of girls and chi
