the golden chersonese and the way thither-第14章
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hours of day and night flying over the water； plying for hire at the
landings； and ferrying goods and passengers； as strong as men； and
clean； comely； and pleasant…looking； one at the stern and one at the
bow； sending the floating home along with skilled and sturdy strokes。
They are splendid boat…women； and not vociferous。 These women don't
bandage their feet。
Their dress is dark brown or blue cotton； and consists of wide trousers
and a short； loose； sleeved upper garment up to the throat。 The feet
are big and bare； the hair is neat and drawn back from the face into a
stiff roll or chignon； and they all wear jade…stone earrings。 You see a
woman cooking or sewing in most housewifely style in one of these
〃slipper boats；〃 but if you hail it； she is plying the heavy oar in one
moment； and as likely as not with a wise…looking baby on her back；
supported by a square piece of scarlet cloth embroidered in gold and
blue silks。 Not one of this river population has yet received
Christianity。 Very little indeed is known about them and their
customs； but it is said that their morals are low； and that when
infanticide was less discouraged than it is now； the river was the
convenient grave of many of their newly…born female children。 I spent
most of one afternoon alone in one of these boats； diving into all
canals and traversing water streets； hanging on to junks and 〃passage
boats；〃 and enjoying the variety of river life to the full。
On another day I was carried eighteen miles through Canton on a chair
by four coolies； Mr。 Smith and his brother walking the whole
distancea great testimony to the invigorating influences of the
winter climate。 As to locomotion； one must either walk or be carried。 A
human being is not a heavy weight for the coolies； but it is
distressing to see that the shoulders of very many of them are
suffering from bony tumors； arising from the pressure of the poles。 We
lunched in the open air upon a stone table under a banyan…tree at the
〃Five…storied Pagoda〃 which forms the north…east corner of the great
wall of Canton； from which we looked down upon the singular vestiges of
the nearly forgotten Tartar conquest； the walled inner city of the
Tartar conquerors； containing the Tartar garrison； the Yamun （official
residence） of the Tartar governor； the houses of the foreign consuls；
and the unmixed Tartar population。 The streets of this foreign kernel
of Canton are narrow and dirty； with mean； low houses with tiled roofs
nearly flat； and small courtyards； more like the houses of Western than
Eastern Asia。 These Tartars do not differ much in physiognomy from the
Chinese。 They are somewhat uglier； their stature is shorter； and the
women always wear three rings in their ears。 I saw more women in a
single street in one day in the Tartar city than I have seen altogether
in the rest of Canton。
The view from that corner of the wall （to my thinking） is beautiful；
the flaming red pagoda with its many roofs； the singularly picturesque
ancient gray wall； all ups and downs； watch…towers； and strongholds；
the Tartar city below； with the 〃flowery pagoda；〃 the mosques； the
bright foliage of the banyan； and the feathery grace of the bamboo；
outside the wall the White…Cloud hills； and nearer ranges burrowed
everywhere for the dead； their red and pink and orange hues harmonized
by a thin blue veil； softening without obscuring； all lying in the
glory of the tropic winter noon…light without heat； color without
glare。 Vanish all memories of grays and pale greens before this
vividness； this wealth of light and color！ Color is at once music and
vitality； and after long deprivation I revel in it。 This wall is a fine
old structure； about twenty feet wide and as many high； with a broad
pavement on which to walk； and a high platform on the outside； with a
battlement pierced for marksmen。 It is hardly ever level for ten yards；
but follows the inequalities of the ground； and has picturesque towers
which occur frequently。 It is everywhere draped with ferns； which do
not help to keep it in repair。 The 〃Five…storied Pagoda〃 which flames
in red at one of its angles； is a striking feature in the view。 As we
sat on stone seats by stone tables in what might be called its shadow；
under the cloudless heaven； with the pure Orientalism of the Tartar
city spread out at our feet； that unimaginable Orientalism which takes
one captive at once； and； like the first sight of a palm or a banana；
satisfies a longing of which one had not previously been conscious； a
mundane disappointment was severely felt。 We had been； as the Americans
say； 〃exercising〃 for five hours in the bracing air； and I had long
been conscious of a craving for solid food which no Orientalism could
satisfy； and our dismay was great not only to find that the cook had
put up lunch for two when there were three hungry persons； but that the
chicken was so underdone that we could not eat it； and as we were not
starving enough to go and feed at a cat and dog or any other Chinese
restaurant； my hosts at least； who had not learned that bananas are
sustenance for men as well as 〃food for gods；〃 were famished。 As we ate
〃clem pie〃 or 〃dined with Duke Humphrey；〃 two water buffaloes； dark
gray ungainly forms； with little more hair than elephants； recurved
horns； and muzzles like deer； watched us closely； until a Tartar drove
them off。 Such beasts； which stand in the water and plaster themselves
with mud like elephants； are the cows and draught oxen of China。 Two
nice Chinese boys sat by us； and Mr。 Smith practiced Chinese upon them；
till a man came out angrily and took them away； using many words； of
which we only understood 〃Barbarian Devils。〃 The Cantonese are not
rude； however。 A foreign lady can walk alone without being actually
molested； though as a rule Chinese women are not seen in the streets。 I
have certainly seen half a million men； and not more than ninety women；
and those only of the poorest class。 The middle and upper class women
never go out except in closed palanquins with screened windows； and are
nearly as much secluded as the women of India。
Passing through the Tartar city and some streets of aristocratic
dullness； inhabited by wealthy merchants； we spent some hours in the
mercantile quarter； which is practically one vast market or bazaar；
thronged with masculine humanity from morning till night。 Eight feet is
the width of the widest street but one； and between the passers…by； the
loungers； the people standing at stalls eating； or drinking tea； and
the itinerant venders of goods； it is one long push。 Then； as you are
elbowing your feeble self among the big men； who are made truly
monstrous by their many wadded garments of silk and brocade； you are
terrified by a loud yell； and being ignominiously hustled out of the
way； you become aware that the crowd has yielded place to a procession；
consisting of several men in red； followed by a handsome closed
palanquin； borne by four； six； or eight bearers in red liveries； in
which reclines a stout； magnificently dressed mandarin； utterly
oblivious of his inferiors； the representative of high caste feeling
all the world over； either reading or absorbed； never taking any notice
of the crowds and glitter which I find so fascinating。 More men in red；
and then the crowd closes up again； to be again divided by a plebeian
chair like mine； or by pariahs running with a coffin fifteen feet long；
shaped like the trunk of a tree； or by coolies carrying burdens slung
on bamboo poles； uttering deafening cries； or by a marriage procession
with songs and music； or by a funeral procession with weeping and
wailing； succeeding each other incessantly。 All the people in the
streets are shouting at the top of their voices； the chair and baggage
coolies are yelling； and to complete the bewildering din the beggars at
every corner are demanding charity by striking two gongs together。
Color riots in these narrow streets； with their high houses with
projecting upper stories； much carved and gilded； their deeply
projecting roofs or eaves tiled with shells cut into panes； which let
the light softly through； while a sky of deep bright blue fills up the
narrow s
