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the honour of not having done aught conspicuously foul; the honour

of the inert: that was what remained to you。  We are not all

expected to be Damiens; a man may conceive his duty more narrowly;

he may love his comforts better; and none will cast a stone at him

for that。  But will a gentleman of your reverend profession allow

me an example from the fields of gallantry?  When two gentlemen

compete for the favour of a lady; and the one succeeds and the

other is rejected; and (as will sometimes happen) matter damaging

to the successful rival's credit reaches the ear of the defeated;

it is held by plain men of no pretensions that his mouth is; in the

circumstance; almost necessarily closed。  Your Church and Damien's

were in Hawaii upon a rivalry to do well: to help; to edify; to set

divine examples。  You having (in one huge instance) failed; and

Damien succeeded; I marvel it should not have occurred to you that

you were doomed to silence; that when you had been outstripped in

that high rivalry; and sat inglorious in the midst of your well…

being; in your pleasant room … and Damien; crowned with glories and

horrors; toiled and rotted in that pigsty of his under the cliffs

of Kalawao … you; the elect who would not; were the last man on

earth to collect and propagate gossip on the volunteer who would

and did。



I think I see you … for I try to see you in the flesh as I write

these sentences … I think I see you leap at the word pigsty; a

hyperbolical expression at the best。  〃He had no hand in the

reforms;〃 he was 〃a coarse; dirty man〃; these were your own words;

and you may think it possible that I am come to support you with

fresh evidence。  In a sense; it is even so。  Damien has been too

much depicted with a conventional halo and conventional features;

so drawn by men who perhaps had not the eye to remark or the pen to

express the individual; or who perhaps were only blinded and

silenced by generous admiration; such as I partly envy for myself …

such as you; if your soul were enlightened; would envy on your

bended knees。  It is the least defect of such a method of

portraiture that it makes the path easy for the devil's advocate;

and leaves the misuse of the slanderer a considerable field of

truth。  For the truth that is suppressed by friends is the readiest

weapon of the enemy。  The world; in your despite; may perhaps owe

you something; if your letter be the means of substituting once for

all a credible likeness for a wax abstraction。  For; if that world

at all remember you; on the day when Damien of Molokai shall be

named a Saint; it will be in virtue of one work: your letter to the

Reverend H。 B。 Gage。



You may ask on what authority I speak。  It was my inclement destiny

to become acquainted; not with Damien; but with Dr。 Hyde。  When I

visited the lazaretto; Damien was already in his resting grave。

But such information as I have; I gathered on the spot in

conversation with those who knew him well and long: some indeed who

revered his memory; but others who had sparred and wrangled with

him; who beheld him with no halo; who perhaps regarded him with

small respect; and through whose unprepared and scarcely partial

communications the plain; human features of the man shone on me

convincingly。  These gave me what knowledge I possess; and I learnt

it in that scene where it could be most completely and sensitively

understood … Kalawao; which you have never visited; about which you

have never so much as endeavoured to inform yourself; for; brief as

your letter is; you have found the means to stumble into that

confession。  〃LESS THAN ONE…HALF of the island;〃 you say; 〃is

devoted to the lepers。〃  Molokai … 〃MOLOKAI AHINA;〃 the 〃grey;〃

lofty; and most desolate island … along all its northern side

plunges a front of precipice into a sea of unusual profundity。

This range of cliff is; from east to west; the true end and

frontier of the island。  Only in one spot there projects into the

ocean a certain triangular and rugged down; grassy; stony; windy;

and rising in the midst into a hill with a dead crater: the whole

bearing to the cliff that overhangs it somewhat the same relation

as a bracket to a wall。  With this hint you will now be able to

pick out the leper station on a map; you will be able to judge how

much of Molokai is thus cut off between the surf and precipice;

whether less than a half; or less than a quarter; or a fifth; or a

tenth … or; say a twentieth; and the next time you burst into print

you will be in a position to share with us the issue of your

calculations。



I imagine you to be one of those persons who talk with cheerfulness

of that place which oxen and wain…ropes could not drag you to

behold。  You; who do not even know its situation on the map;

probably denounce sensational descriptions; stretching your limbs

the while in your pleasant parlour on Beretania Street。  When I was

pulled ashore there one early morning; there sat with me in the

boat two sisters; bidding farewell (in humble imitation of Damien)

to the lights and joys of human life。  One of these wept silently;

I could not withhold myself from joining her。  Had you been there;

it is my belief that nature would have triumphed even in you; and

as the boat drew but a little nearer; and you beheld the stairs

crowded with abominable deformations of our common manhood; and saw

yourself landing in the midst of such a population as only now and

then surrounds us in the horror of a nightmare … what a haggard eye

you would have rolled over your reluctant shoulder towards the

house on Beretania Street!  Had you gone on; had you found every

fourth face a blot upon the landscape; had you visited the hospital

and seen the butt…ends of human beings lying there almost

unrecognisable; but still breathing; still thinking; still

remembering; you would have understood that life in the lazaretto

is an ordeal from which the nerves of a man's spirit shrink; even

as his eye quails under the brightness of the sun; you would have

felt it was (even today) a pitiful place to visit and a hell to

dwell in。  It is not the fear of possible infection。  That seems a

little thing when compared with the pain; the pity; and the disgust

of the visitor's surroundings; and the atmosphere of affliction;

disease; and physical disgrace in which he breathes。  I do not

think I am a man more than usually timid; but I never recall the

days and nights I spent upon that island promontory (eight days and

seven nights); without heartfelt thankfulness that I am somewhere

else。  I find in my diary that I speak of my stay as a 〃grinding

experience〃: I have once jotted in the margin; 〃HARROWING is the

word〃; and when the MOKOLII bore me at last towards the outer

world; I kept repeating to myself; with a new conception of their

pregnancy; those simple words of the song …



〃 'Tis the most distressful country that ever yet was seen。〃



And observe: that which I saw and suffered from was a settlement

purged; bettered; beautified; the new village built; the hospital

and the Bishop…Home excellently arranged; the sisters; the poctor;

and the missionaries; all indefatigable in their noble tasks。  It

was a different place when Damien came there and made this great

renunciation; and slept that first night under a tree amidst his

rotting brethren: alone with pestilence; and looking forward (with

what courage; with what pitiful sinkings of dread; God only knows)

to a lifetime of dressing sores and stumps。



You will say; perhaps; I am too sensitive; that sights as painful

abound in cancer hospitals and are confronted daily by doctors and

nurses。  I have long learned to admire and envy the doctors and the

nurses。  But there is no cancer hospital so large and populous as

Kalawao and Kalaupapa; and in such a matter every fresh case; like

every inch of length in the pipe of an organ; deepens the note of

the impression; for what daunts the onlooker is that monstrous

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