an autobiography-第66章
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o trust to correspondence； but to see the directors on the spot。 We found that there were several riskful conditions attached to the proposed contract； which we considered it imprudent to agree to。 We had afterwards good reason to feel satisfied that we had not yielded to the very tempting commercial blandishments that were offered to us； but that we refrained from undertaking an order that required so many important modifications。
Nevertheless； I was exceedingly delighted with the appearance of the city of Nuremberg。 It carries one back to the mediaeval times！ The architecture； even of the ordinary houses； is excellent。 St。 Lawrence； St。 Sebald's； and the Frauenkirche； are splendid specimens of Gothic design。 The city is surrounded by old walls and turrets； by ramparts and bastions； enclosed by a ditch faced with masonry。 Very few cities have so well escaped the storm of war and sieges in the Middle Ages； and even in modern times。 Everything has been carefully preserved； and many of the best houses are still inhabited by the families whose forefathers originally constructed them。 But 〃progress〃 is beginning to affect Nuremberg。 It is the centre of railways； buildings are extending in all directions； tram…cars are running in the streets； and before long； I fear； the ditch will be filled up； the surrounding picturesque walls and towers demolished； and the city thrown open to the surrounding country。
I visited the house of Albert Durer； one of the greatest artists who ever lived。 He was a man of universal geniusa painter； sculptor； engraver； mathematician； and engineer。 He was to Germany what Leonardo da Vinci was to Italy。 His house is wonderfully preserved。 You see his entrance hall； his exhibition room； his bedroom； his studio； and the opening into which his wifethat veritable Xantippe thrust the food that was to sustain him during his solitary hours of labour。 I saw his grave； too； in the old churchyard beyond the Thiergarten gate。 I saw the bronze plate commemorating the day of his death。 〃Emigravit 8 idus Aprilis 1528。〃 〃Emigravit〃 only； for the true artist never dies。 Hans Sachs's grave is there toothe great Reformation poet of Luther's time。
Adam Krafft must have been a great sculptor； though his name is little known out of Nuremberg。 Perhaps his finest work is in St。 Lawrence Cathedralthe Sacramentshauslein； or the repository for the sacred wafera graceful tapering stone spire of florid Gothic open work； more than sixty feet high； which stands at the opening of the right transept。 Its construction and decoration occupied the sculptor and his two apprentices no less than five years； and all that he received for his hard labour and skilful work was 770 gulden； or about #80 sterling。 No wonder that he died in the deepest distress。 St。 Sebald's and the Frauenkirche also contain numerous specimens of his admirable work。
In the course of the following year （1843） it was necessary for me to make a journey to St。 Petersburg。 My object was to endeavour to obtain an order for a portion of the locomotives required for working the line between that city and Moscow。 The railway had been constructed under the engineership of Major Whistler； father of the well…known artist； and it was shortly about to be opened。 It appeared that the Emperor Nicholas was desirous of securing a home supply of locomotives； and that； like a wise monarch； he wished to employ his own subjects rather than foreigners in producing them。 No one could object to this。
The English locomotive manufacturers were not aware of the Emperor's intention。 When I arrived in the city I expected an order for locomotives。 The representatives of the principal English firms were there like myself； they； too； expected a share of the order。 It so happened that at the table d'hote dinner I sat near a very intelligent American； with whom I soon became intimate。 He told me that he was very well acquainted with Major Whistler； and offered to introduce me to him。 By all means！ There is no thing like friendly feelings in matters of business。
The Major gave me a frank and cordial reception； and informed me of the position of affairs。 The Emperor； he said； was desirous of training a class of Russian mechanics to supply not only the locomotives but to keep them constantly in repair。 He could not solely depend upon foreign artisans for the latter purpose。 The locomotives must be made in Russia。 The Emperor had given up the extensive premises of the Imperial China Manufactory； which were to be devoted to the manufacture of engines。
The Major appointed Messrs。 Eastwick； Harrison； and Wynants； to supply the entire mechanical plant of the railway。 I saw that it would be of no use to apply for any order for locomotives； but I offered to do all that I could to supply the necessary details。 In the course of a few days I was introduced to Joseph Harrison； the chief mechanic of the firm； and I then entered into a friendship which proved long and lasting。 He gave me a large order for boilers； and for detail parts of the Moscow enginesall of which helped him forward in the completion of the locomotives。 We also supplied many of our special machine tools； without which engines could not then be very satisfactorily made or kept in repair。 In this way I was in all respects highly remunerated for my journey。
The enjoyment of my visit to St。 Petersburg was much enhanced by frequent visits to my much valued friend General Alexander Wilson。 He was a native of Edinburgh； and delighted to enjoy cracks with me upon subjects of mutual interest。 His sister； who kept house for him； joined in our conversation。 She had been married to the Emperor Paul's physician； who was also a Scotsman； and was able to narrate many terrible events in relation to Russian Court affairs。 The General had worked his way upwards； like the rest of us。 During the principal part of his life he had superintended the great mechanical establishments at Alexandrosky and Colpenha； where about 3000 operatives were employed。 These establishments were originally founded by the Empress Catherine for the purpose of creating a native manufacturing population capable of carrying on textile and mechanical works of all kinds。 The sail…cloth for the Russian navy was manufactured at Alexandrosky by excellent machinery。 Cotton fabrics were also manufactured； as well as playing cards； which were a Crown monopoly。 The great establishment at Colpenha consisted of a foundry； a machine manufactory； and a mint where the copper money of the empire was coined。 General Wilson was the directing chief officer of all these establishments。
Through him I had the happiness of being introduced to General Greg； son of the great admiral who shed such honour on the Russian flag during the reign of the Empress Catherine。 He was then well advanced in years； but full of keen intelligence and devoted to astronomical pursuits。 He was in a great measure the founder of the Imperial Observatory at Pulkowa； situated on an appropriate eminence about eight miles from St。 Petersburg。 The observatory was furnished under his directions with the most magnificent astronomical instruments。 I had the honour to be introduced by him to the elder Struve； whose astronomical labours procured him a well…earned reputation throughout Europe。 I had the rare happiness of spending some nights with Struve； when he showed me the wonderful capabilities of his fine instruments。 The observatory is quite imperial in its arrangement and management； and was supported in the most liberal manner by the Emperor Nicholas。 Indeed； it is a perfect example of what so noble an establishment should be。
Struve most kindly invited me to come whenever the state of the weather permitted him to show forth the wonderful perfection of his instruments；a rare chance； which I seized every opportunity of enjoying。 It was quite a picture to see the keen interest and intense enjoyment with which the profound astronomer would seat himself at his instrument and pick out some exquisite test objects； such as the double stars in Virgo； Cygnus； or Ursa Major。 The beautiful order and neatness with which the instruments were kept in their magnificent appropriate apartmen
