an autobiography-第61章
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sland of Capri。 But the most prominent object was Vesuvius in front； with its expanding cloud of white smoke over the landscape。 On landing； I took up my quarters at the Hotel Victoria。 I sallied forth to take my first hasty view of the Chiaia； the streets； and the principal buildings。 But； in accordance with my motto of 〃Duty first； pleasure second；〃 I proceeded to attend to the business respecting which I had visited Naples。 That； however； was soon disposed of。 In a few days I was able to attend to pleasure。 I made my way to the Museo Borbonico； now called the National Museum。 I found it a rich mine of precious treasures； consisting of Greek； Etruscan； and Roman antiquities of every description。 Not the least interesting part of the Museum is the collection of marbles； pictures； and articles of daily use； dug from the ruins of the buried city of Pompeii。 Every spare hour that I could command was occupied in visiting and revisiting this wonderful Museum。
Herculaneum and Pompeii were also visited； but； more than all； the crater of Vesuvius。 During my visit the mountain was in its normal state。 I mounted the volcanic ashes with which it is strewn； and got to the top。 There I could look down into the pit from which the clouds of steam are vomited forth。 I went down to the very edge of the crater； stood close to its mouth； and watched the intermittent up…rushing of the blasts of vapour and sulphureous gases。 To keep clear of these I stood to the windward side； and was thus out of harm's way。
What struck me most was the wonderfully brilliant colours of the rugged lava rocks forming the precipitous cliffs of the interior walls of the crater。 These brilliant colours were the result of the sublimation and condensation on their surfaces of the combinations of sulphur and chloride of iron； quite as bright as if they had been painted with bright red； chrome； and all the most brilliant tints。 Columns of all manner of chemical vapours ascended from the clefts and deep cracks； at the bottom of which I clearly saw the bright hot lava。
I rolled as big a mass of cool lava as I could to the edge of the crater and heaved it down； but I heard no sound。 Doubtless the depth was vast； or it might probably have fallen into the molten lava； and thus made no noise。 On leaving this horrible pit edge； I tied the card of the Bridgewater Foundry to a bit of lava and threw it in； as token of respectful civility to Vulcan； the head of our craft。
I had considerably more difficulty in clambering up to the top edge of the crater than I had in coming down。 Once or twice； indeed； I was half choked by the swirls of sulphureous and muriatic acid vapour that environed me before I could reach the upper edge。 I sat down in a nook； though it was a very hot one； and made a sketch or two of the appearance of the crater。 But I feel that it is quite beyond my power either by pen or pencil； to convey an idea of the weird unearthly aspect which the funnel…shaped crater of Vesuvius presented at that time。 An eruption of unusual violence had occurred shortly before I saw it。 Great rounded blocks of lava had been thrown high into the air again and again； and had fallen back into the terrible focus of volcanic violence。 Vast portions of the rugged and precipitous sides of the crater had fallen in； and were left in a state of the wildest confusion。 When I visited the place the eruption had comparatively subsided。 The throat of the crater was a rugged opening of more than forty feet diameter； leading down toWhere？ Echo answers； 〃Where？〃 And yet there is no doubt but that the great mass of materials which lay around me as I made my sketches； had been shot up from inconceivable depths beneath the solid crust of the earth。 There still remains an enormous mass of molten materials that has been shut up beneath that crust since the surface of the globe assumed its present condition。 The mineral matter that formed the globe had converged towards its centre of gravity； and the arrestment of the momentum of the coalescing particles resulted in intense heat。 Hence the molten condition of the globe in its primitive state。 The molten lava of volcanoes is the survival of that original cosmical heat。
This heat has played a great part in the physical history of the globe。 Volcanic action has been； as it were； the universal plough！ It has given us mountains； hills； and valleys。 It has given us picturesque scenery； gorges； precipices； waterfalls。 The up heaving agent has displayed the mineral treasures of the earth； and enabled man； by intelligent industry； to use them as mines of material blessings。 This is indeed a great and sublime subject。
I had remained near the mouth of the crater for about five hours。 Evening was approaching。 My drawings were finished； and I prepared to leave。 My descent from the summit of the crater edge was comparatively rapid； though every footstep went down some fifteen inches through the volcanic ashes。 I descended by the eastern side； and was soon at the base of the great cone。 I made my way by tortuous walking round the erupted masses of lava； and also by portions of the lava streams； which； on losing their original fluidity； had become piled up and contorted into gigantic masses。
At the extreme edges of the flow； where the lava had become viscid； these folds and contortions were very remarkable。 They were piled fold over fold；the result of the mighty pressure from behind。 It was sad to see so many olive gardens burnt and destroyed； the trees were as black as charcoal。 It is singular to see the numbers of orange and olive growers who choose to live so near to the 〃fiery element。〃 But the heat presses forward the growth of vegetation。 To be there is like living in a hothouse； and the soil is extraordinarily fertile。 Hence the number of vineyards quite close to the base of Vesuvius。 The cultivators endeavour to enclose their gardens with hard masses of lava； so as to turn off the flow of the molten streams in other directions； but the lava bursts through the walls again and again； and the gardens are often utterly burnt up and ruined。 Almost every field at the base of Vesuvius contains a neat little oratory； with a statue of the Virgin and Child； to which the cultivators repair in times of peril and calamity。 But chapel； statue； and gardens are alike swept away by the tremendous descent of the molten lava。
As the night was growing dark； I made my way from these riskful farms to Rosina； a little village on the way back to Naples。 As I had had nothing to eat or drink during this thirst…producing journey； I went into a wine shop and asked for some refreshment。 The wine shop was a sort of vault； with a door like that of a coach…house； but with a bench and narrow table。 The good woman brought me a great green glass bottle like a vitriol carboy！ It contained more than six gallons of wine； and she left me with a big glass to satisfy my wants。 The wine was the veritable Lachryma； Christia delightful light claretfor producing which the vineyards at the base of Vesuvius are famous。 After some most glorious swigs from this generous and jovial carboy； accompanied with some delightful fresh made bread； I felt myself up to anything。 After washing down the dust that I had swallowed during the day； I settled with my liberal landlady （indeed she was mightily pleased with only tenpence）； and started for Naples。
I had still an eight…mile walk before me； but that was nothing to my vigorous powers at that time。 The moon had risen during my stay in the wine house； and it shone with a bright clear light。 After a few miles' walking I felt a little tired； for the day's exercise had been rather toilsome。 A fine carriage passed me on the road with a most tempting platform behind。 I hailed the driver； and was allowed to mount。 I was soon bowling along the lava paved road； and in a short time I arrived at Naples。 I made another excursion to the crater of Vesuvius before I left； as well as visits to Herculaneum and Pompeii； which exceedingly interested me。 But these I need not attempt to relate。 I refer my readers to Murray's Guide Book； where both are admirably described。
After completing my business affairs at Naples； and s
