an autobiography-第59章
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ss was with the smithy or atelier des forges； and the workshops or ateliers des machiness。 There I recognised many of the machine…tools manufactured at the Bridgewater Foundry； doing excellent work。
My next visit was to Brest； the chief naval arsenal of France。 It combines a dockyard； arsenal； and fortress of the first class。 Everything has been done to make the place impregnable。 The harbour is situated on the north side of one of the finest havens in the world； and is almost land…locked。 Around the harbour run quays of great extent； alongside of which the largest ships can liefive artificial basins being excavated out of the solid rock。 The whole of the harbour is defended by tier above tier of batteries。 Foreigners are not permitted to enter the dockyard without special permission； but as I was armed with my letter of introduction from the Minister of Marine； I was admitted and cordially received； as at Cherbourg。 I went through the Government foundry and steam…factory； for which I had supplied many of my machine tools。 I found the establishment to be the largest and most complete that I had seen。 From Brest I went to Rochefort； an excellent naval arsenal； though much smaller than those at Cherbourg and Brest。 Next to Indret on the Loire。 Here is the large factory where marine engines are made for the royal steamers。 The works were superintended by M。 Rosine； a most able man。* ＇footnote。。。 The only man I ever met； to whom I might compare Rosine； was my lamented friend Francis Humphries； engineer of the Great Western Steamship Company。 Both were men of the same type； though Rosine was several octaves…higher in the compass and vividness of his intellect。 。。。＇
I was so much pleased with him that I spent two days in his society。 I have rarely met with a more perfect union of the sound practical mechanic； of strong common…sense； and yet with a vivid imagination； which threw a light upon every subject that he touched。 It was delightful to see the perfect manner in which he had arranged all the details of the engine factory under his superintendence； and to observe the pride which he took in the accuracy of the work turned out by his excellent machinery。 It was a treat to see the magnificent and intricate iron castings produced there。
As M。 Rosine spoke English fluently； we had discussions on a vast variety of topics； not only relating to technical subjects； but on other matters relating to art and mechanical drawing。 He was one of the few men I have met who had in perfection the happy accomplishment of sketching with true artistic spirit any object that he desired to bring before you。 His pencil far outstripped language in conveying distinct ideas on constructive and material objects。 The time that I spent in the company of this most interesting man will ever remain vivid in my memory。 It grieved me greatly to hear of his premature death about two years after the date of my visit。 He must have been a sad loss to his deeply attached friends； as well as to the nation whom he so faith fully served。
On my way to Toulon I passed through Bordeaux； and by Avignon to Nismes。 At the latter city I was delighted with the sight of the exquisite Roman temple； the Maison Carree。 It is almost perfect。 But the most interesting of the Roman remains at Nismes is the magnificent Amphitheatre。 In viewing this grand specimen of architecture； as well as the old temples； cathedrals； and castles； I felt that we moderns are comparative pigmies。 Our architecture wants breadth； grandeur； sublimity。
It appears to me that one of the chief causes of the inferiority and defects of Modern Architecture is； that our designers are so anxious to display their taste in ornamentation。 They first design the exterior； and then fit into it the interior of their building。 The purpose of the building is thus regarded as a secondary consideration。 In short； they utilise ornament instead of ornamenting utilitytotal inversion； as it appears to me； of the fundamental principle which ought to govern all classes of architectural structures。 This is； unfortunately； too evident in most of our public buildings。 See； for instance； our new Law Courts。
One thing I was especially struck with at Nismesthe ease with which some thousands of people might issue； without hindrance； from the Amphitheatre。 The wedge…shaped passages radiate from the centre； and； widening outwards； would facilitate the egress of an immense crowd。 Contrast this with the difficulty of getting out of any modern theatre or church in case of alarm or fire。 Another thing is remarkablethe care with which the huge blocks of magnesian limestone* ＇footnote。。。 I believe Dolomite is the proper geological term。 This fine material abounds in this part of France； and has materially contributed to the durability of the Roman mason work。 。。。＇ have been selected。 Some of the stone slabs are eighteen feet long； they roof over the corridors； yet they still retain the marks of the Roman chisel。 Every individual chip is as crisp as on the day on which it was made； even the delicate 〃scribe〃 marks； by which the mason some 1900 years ago lined out his work on the blocks of stone he was about to chip into its required form； are still perfectly distinct。
This wonderfully durable stone is of the same material as that employed by lithographers。 Though magnesian； it is of a different quality from that employed in building our Houses of Parliament。 As this was carefully selected； the latter was carelessly unselected。 It was quarried at random； in the most ignorant way； some of it proved little better than chalk； and though all sorts of nostrums have been tried； nothing will cure the radical defect。 This； however； is a wide digression from my subject of the admirable mason work； and the wonderful skill and forethought employed in erecting that superb arena and the other Roman buildings at Nismes。
I proceeded to Marseilles； where I had some business to transact with Philip Taylor and Company； the engineering firm。 They were most kind and attentive to me while there； and greatly added to the enjoyment of my visit to that remarkable city。 From Marseilles I proceeded to Toulon； the last of the marine dockyards I had to visit。 There was no railway between the places at that time； and it was accordingly necessary that I should drive along the usual road。 In the course of my journey to Toulon I went through the Pass of Col d'Ollioulles。 It was awfully impressive。 The Pass appeared to consist of a mighty cleft between two mountains； the result of some convulsion of Nature。 There was only room for the carriage road to pass between the cliffs。 The ruins of a Saracenic castle stood on the heights to guard the passage。 It was certainly the most romantic scene I had ever beheld。
Looking down into the deep cleft below me； at the bottom of which ran a turbulent stream； I saw the narrow road along which our carriage was to pass。 And then suddenly I emerged in full sight of the Mediterranean； with the calm blue heavens resting over the deep blue sea。 There were palms； cactuses； and orange trees； mixed with olive groves。 The fields were full of tulips and narcissuses； and the rocks by the roadside were covered with boxwood and lavender。 Everything gave evidence of the sunny South。 I had got a glimpse of the Mediterranean a few days before； but now I saw it in its glory。
I arrived in due time at Toulon。 The town is not very striking in itself。 It is surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains of hard magnesian limestone。 These are almost devoid of vegetation。 This it is which gives so arid an aspect to this part of the coast。 Facing the south； the sun's rays； reflected from the bare surface of the rocks； place one at mid…day as if in the focus of a great burning mirror； and send every one in quest of shade。 This intense temperature has its due effect upon the workers in the dockyard。 I found the place far inferior to the others which I had visited。 The heat seemed to engender a sort of listlessness over the entire place。 The people seemed to be falling asleep。 Though we complain of cold in our northern hemisphere； it is a great incentive to work。 Even our east wind is an invigorator； it
