an autobiography-第38章
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I reached Manchester at seven in the evening； and took up my quarters at the King's Arms Inn； Deansgate。 Next day was Sunday。 I attended service in the Cathedral； then called the Old Church。 I was much interested by the service； as well as by the architecture of the building。 Some of the details were well worthy of attention； being very original； and yet the whole was not of the best period of Gothic architecture。 Some of the old buildings about the Cathedral were very interesting。 They were of a most quaint character； yet bold and effective。 Much finely carved oak timber work was introduced into them； and on the whole they gave a very striking illustration of the style of domestic architecture which prevailed in England some three or four centuries ago。
On the following day I called upon Mr。 Edward Tootal； of York Street。 He was a well…known man in Manchester。
I had the happiness of meeting him in London a few months before。 He then kindly invited me to call upon him should I ever visit Manchester； when he would endeavour to obtain for me sight of some of the most remarkable manufacturing establishments。 Mr。 Tootal was as good as his word。 He received me most cordially； and at once proceeded to take me to the extensive machine factory of Messrs。 Sharp； Roberts； and Co。 I found to my delight that a considerable portion of the establishment was devoted to the production of machine tools； a department of mechanical business then rising into the highest importance。 Mr。 Roberts； an admirable mechanic as well as inventor； had derived many of his ideas on the subject while working with Mr。 Maudslay in London； and he had carried them out with many additions and improvements of his own contrivance。 Indeed； Roberts was one of the most capable men of his time； and is entitled to be regarded as one of the true pioneers of modern mechanical mechanism。
Through the kindness of Mr。 Tootal I had also the opportunity of visiting and inspecting some of the most extensive cotton mills in Manchester。 I was greatly pleased with the beautiful contrivances displayed in the machinery。 They were perfect examples of the highest order of ingenuity； combined with that kind of common…sense which casts aside all mere traditional forms and arrangements of parts； such as do not essentially contribute to the efficiency of the machine in the performance of its special and required purpose。 I found much to admire in the design as well as in the execution of the details of the machines。
The arrangement and management of the manufactories were admirable。 The whole of the buildings； howsoever extensive and apparently complicated； worked like one grand and perfectly constructed machine。
I was also much impressed by the keen interest which the proprietors of these vast establishments took in the minute details of their machinery； as well as by their intelligent and practical acquaintance with the technical minutiae of their business。 Although many of them were men of fortune； they continued to take as deep an interest in such matters as if they were beginning life and had their fortunes still to make。 Their chief ambition was to be at the head of a thoroughly well…managed and prosperous establishment。 No detail； be it ever so small； was beneath their care and attention。 To a young man like myself； then about to enter upon a similar career of industry； these lessons were very important。 They were encouraging examples of carefully thought out designs； carried into admirable results by close attention to details； ever watchful carefulness； and indomitable perseverance。 I brooded over these circumstances； They filled my mind with hope。 They encouraged me to go on in the path which I had selected； and I believed that at some time or other I might be enabled to imitate the examples of zeal and industry which I had witnessed during my stay in Manchester。 It was then that I bethought me of settling down in this busy neighbourhood； and as I plodded my way back to London this thought continually occupied me。 It took root in my mind and grew； and at length the idea became a reality。
I did not take the shortest route on my return journey to London。 I desired to pass through the most interesting and picturesque places without unduly diverging from the right direction。 I wished to see the venerable buildings and cathedrals of the olden time； as well as the engineering establishments of the new。 Notwithstanding my love for mechanics I still retained a spice of the antiquarian feeling。 It enabled me to look back to the remote past； into the material records of man's efforts hundreds of years ago； and contrast them with the modern progress of arts and sciences。 I was especially interested in the architecture of bygone ages； but here； alas！ arts and sciences have done nothing。 Modern Gothic architecture is merely an imitation of the old； and often a very bad imitation。 Even ancient domestic architecture is much superior to the modern。 We can now only imitate it； and often spoil when imitating。
I left Manchester and turned my steps in the direction of Coalbrookdale。 I passed through a highly picturesque country； in which I enjoyed the sight of many old timber houses； most attractive subjects for my pencil。 My route lay through Whitchurch； Wem； and Wellington； then past the Wrekin to Coalbrookdale。 Before arriving there I saw the first iron bridge constructed in England； an object of historical interest in that class of structures。 It was because of the superb quality of the castings produced at Coalbrookdale that the ironmasters there were able to accomplish the building of a bridge of that material； which before had baffled all projectors both at home and abroad
I possessed a letter of introduction to the manager； and was received by him most cordially。 He permitted me to examine the works。 I was greatly interested at the sight of the processes of casting。 Many beautiful objects were turned out for architectural； domestic； and other purposes。 I saw nothing particularly novel； however； in the methods and processes of moulding and casting。
The excellence of the work depended for the most part upon the great care and skill exercised by the workmen of the foundry。 They seemed to vie with each other in turning out the best castings； and their models or patterns were made with the utmost care。 I was particularly impressed with the cheerful zeal and activity of the workmen and foremen of this justly celebrated establishment。
On leaving Coalbrookdale I trudged my way towards Wolverhampton。 I rested at Shiffnal for the night。 Next day I was in the middle of the Black Country。 I had no letters of introduction to employers in Wolverhampton； so that； without stopping there； I proceeded at once to Dudley。 The Black Country is anything but picturesque。 The earth seems to have been turned inside out。 Its entrails are strewn about； nearly the entire surface of the ground is covered with cinder…heaps and mounds of scoriae。 The coal which has been drawn from below ground is blazing on the surface。 The district is crowded with iron furnaces； puddling furnaces； and coal…pit engine furnaces。 By day and by night the country is glowing with fire； and the smoke of the ironworks hovers over it。 There is a rumbling and clanking of iron forges and rolling mills。 Workmen covered with smut； and with fierce white eyes； are seen moving about amongst the glowing iron and the dull thud of forge…hammers。 Amidst these flaming； smoky； clanging works； I beheld the remains of what had once been happy farmhouses； now ruined and deserted。 The ground underneath them had sunk by the working out of the coal； and they were falling to pieces。 They had in former times been surrounded by clumps of trees； but only the skeletons of them remained； dead； black； and leafless。 The grass had been parched and killed by the vapours of sulphurous acid thrown out by the chimneys； and every herbaceous object was of a ghastly graythe emblem of vegetable death in its saddest aspect。 Vulcan had driven out Ceres。 In some places I heard a sort of chirruping sound； as of some forlorn bird haunting the ruins of the old farmsteads。 But no！ the chirrup was a vile delusion。 It
