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第24章

the mirror of the sea-第24章

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mood。  He is disregarded; but he has kept all his strength; all his



splendour; and a great part of his power。  Time itself; that shakes



all the thrones; is on the side of that king。  The sword in his



hand remains as sharp as ever upon both its edges; and he may well



go on playing his royal game of quoits with hurricanes; tossing



them over from the continent of republics to the continent of



kingdoms; in the assurance that both the new republics and the old



kingdoms; the heat of fire and the strength of iron; with the



untold generations of audacious men; shall crumble to dust at the



steps of his throne; and pass away; and be forgotten before his own



rule comes to an end。















XXX。















The estuaries of rivers appeal strongly to an adventurous



imagination。  This appeal is not always a charm; for there are



estuaries of a particularly dispiriting ugliness:  lowlands; mud…



flats; or perhaps barren sandhills without beauty of form or



amenity of aspect; covered with a shabby and scanty vegetation



conveying the impression of poverty and uselessness。  Sometimes



such an ugliness is merely a repulsive mask。  A river whose estuary



resembles a breach in a sand rampart may flow through a most



fertile country。  But all the estuaries of great rivers have their



fascination; the attractiveness of an open portal。  Water is



friendly to man。  The ocean; a part of Nature furthest removed in



the unchangeableness and majesty of its might from the spirit of



mankind; has ever been a friend to the enterprising nations of the



earth。  And of all the elements this is the one to which men have



always been prone to trust themselves; as if its immensity held a



reward as vast as itself。







From the offing the open estuary promises every possible fruition



to adventurous hopes。  That road open to enterprise and courage



invites the explorer of coasts to new efforts towards the



fulfilment of great expectations。  The commander of the first Roman



galley must have looked with an intense absorption upon the estuary



of the Thames as he turned the beaked prow of his ship to the



westward under the brow of the North Foreland。  The estuary of the



Thames is not beautiful; it has no noble features; no romantic



grandeur of aspect; no smiling geniality; but it is wide open;



spacious; inviting; hospitable at the first glance; with a strange



air of mysteriousness which lingers about it to this very day。  The



navigation of his craft must have engrossed all the Roman's



attention in the calm of a summer's day (he would choose his



weather); when the single row of long sweeps (the galley would be a



light one; not a trireme) could fall in easy cadence upon a sheet



of water like plate…glass; reflecting faithfully the classic form



of his vessel and the contour of the lonely shores close on his



left hand。  I assume he followed the land and passed through what



is at present known as Margate Roads; groping his careful way along



the hidden sandbanks; whose every tail and spit has its beacon or



buoy nowadays。  He must have been anxious; though no doubt he had



collected beforehand on the shores of the Gauls a store of



information from the talk of traders; adventurers; fishermen;



slave…dealers; pirates … all sorts of unofficial men connected with



the sea in a more or less reputable way。  He would have heard of



channels and sandbanks; of natural features of the land useful for



sea…marks; of villages and tribes and modes of barter and



precautions to take:  with the instructive tales about native



chiefs dyed more or less blue; whose character for greediness;



ferocity; or amiability must have been expounded to him with that



capacity for vivid language which seems joined naturally to the



shadiness of moral character and recklessness of disposition。  With



that sort of spiced food provided for his anxious thought; watchful



for strange men; strange beasts; strange turns of the tide; he



would make the best of his way up; a military seaman with a short



sword on thigh and a bronze helmet on his head; the pioneer post…



captain of an imperial fleet。  Was the tribe inhabiting the Isle of



Thanet of a ferocious disposition; I wonder; and ready to fall with



stone…studded clubs and wooden lances hardened in the fire; upon



the backs of unwary mariners?







Amongst the great commercial streams of these islands; the Thames



is the only one; I think; open to romantic feeling; from the fact



that the sight of human labour and the sounds of human industry do



not come down its shores to the very sea; destroying the suggestion



of mysterious vastness caused by the configuration of the shore。



The broad inlet of the shallow North Sea passes gradually into the



contracted shape of the river; but for a long time the feeling of



the open water remains with the ship steering to the westward



through one of the lighted and buoyed passage…ways of the Thames;



such as Queen's Channel; Prince's Channel; Four…Fathom Channel; or



else coming down the Swin from the north。  The rush of the yellow



flood…tide hurries her up as if into the unknown between the two



fading lines of the coast。  There are no features to this land; no



conspicuous; far…famed landmarks for the eye; there is nothing so



far down to tell you of the greatest agglomeration of mankind on



earth dwelling no more than five and twenty miles away; where the



sun sets in a blaze of colour flaming on a gold background; and the



dark; low shores trend towards each other。  And in the great



silence the deep; faint booming of the big guns being tested at



Shoeburyness hangs about the Nore … a historical spot in the



keeping of one of England's appointed guardians。















XXXI。















The Nore sand remains covered at low…water; and never seen by human



eye; but the Nore is a name to conjure with visions of historical



events; of battles; of fleets; of mutinies; of watch and ward kept



upon the great throbbing heart of the State。  This ideal point of



the estuary; this centre of memories; is marked upon the steely



gray expanse of the waters by a lightship painted red that; from a



couple of miles off; looks like a cheap and bizarre little toy。  I



remember how; on coming up the river for the first time; I was



surprised at the smallness of that vivid object … a tiny warm speck



of crimson lost in an immensity of gray tones。  I was startled; as



if of necessity the principal beacon in the water…way of the



greatest town on earth should have presented imposing proportions。



And; behold! the brown sprit…sail of a barge hid it entirely from



my view。







Coming in from the eastward; the bright colouring of the lightship



marking the part of the river committed to the charge of an Admiral



(the Commander…in…Chief at the Nore) accentuates the dreariness and



the great breadth of the Thames Estuary。  But soon the course of



the ship opens the entrance of the Medway; with its men…of…war



moored in line; and the long wooden jetty of Port Victoria; with



its few low buildings like the beginning of a hasty settlement upon



a wild and unexplored shore。  The famous Thames barges sit in brown



clusters upon the water with an effect of birds floating upon a



pond。  On the imposing expanse of the great estuary the traffic of



the port where so much of the world's work and the world's thinking



is being done becomes insignificant; scattered; streaming away in



thin lines of ships stringing themselves out into the eastern



quarter through the various navigable channels of which the Nore



lightship marks the divergence。  The coasting traffic inclines to



the north; the deep…water ships steer east with a southern



inclination; on through the Downs; to the most remote ends of the



world。  In the wi

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