the mirror of the sea-第12章
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knowledge of the language; since he managed invariably to interpret
in the contrary sense everything that was said to him。
Notwithstanding the little iron stove; the ink froze on the swing…
table in the cabin; and I found it more convenient to go ashore
stumbling over the arctic waste…land and shivering in glazed
tramcars in order to write my evening letter to my owners in a
gorgeous cafe in the centre of the town。 It was an immense place;
lofty and gilt; upholstered in red plush; full of electric lights
and so thoroughly warmed that even the marble tables felt tepid to
the touch。 The waiter who brought me my cup of coffee bore; by
comparison with my utter isolation; the dear aspect of an intimate
friend。 There; alone in a noisy crowd; I would write slowly a
letter addressed to Glasgow; of which the gist would be: There is
no cargo; and no prospect of any coming till late spring
apparently。 And all the time I sat there the necessity of getting
back to the ship bore heavily on my already half…congealed spirits
… the shivering in glazed tramcars; the stumbling over the snow…
sprinkled waste ground; the vision of ships frozen in a row;
appearing vaguely like corpses of black vessels in a white world;
so silent; so lifeless; so soulless they seemed to be。
With precaution I would go up the side of my own particular corpse;
and would feel her as cold as ice itself and as slippery under my
feet。 My cold berth would swallow up like a chilly burial niche my
bodily shivers and my mental excitement。 It was a cruel winter。
The very air seemed as hard and trenchant as steel; but it would
have taken much more than this to extinguish my sacred fire for the
exercise of my craft。 No young man of twenty…four appointed chief
mate for the first time in his life would have let that Dutch
tenacious winter penetrate into his heart。 I think that in those
days I never forgot the fact of my elevation for five consecutive
minutes。 I fancy it kept me warm; even in my slumbers; better than
the high pile of blankets; which positively crackled with frost as
I threw them off in the morning。 And I would get up early for no
reason whatever except that I was in sole charge。 The new captain
had not been appointed yet。
Almost each morning a letter from my owners would arrive; directing
me to go to the charterers and clamour for the ship's cargo; to
threaten them with the heaviest penalties of demurrage; to demand
that this assortment of varied merchandise; set fast in a landscape
of ice and windmills somewhere up…country; should be put on rail
instantly; and fed up to the ship in regular quantities every day。
After drinking some hot coffee; like an Arctic explorer setting off
on a sledge journey towards the North Pole; I would go ashore and
roll shivering in a tramcar into the very heart of the town; past
clean…faced houses; past thousands of brass knockers upon a
thousand painted doors glimmering behind rows of trees of the
pavement species; leafless; gaunt; seemingly dead for ever。
That part of the expedition was easy enough; though the horses were
painfully glistening with icicles; and the aspect of the tram…
conductors' faces presented a repulsive blending of crimson and
purple。 But as to frightening or bullying; or even wheedling some
sort of answer out of Mr。 Hudig; that was another matter
altogether。 He was a big; swarthy Netherlander; with black
moustaches and a bold glance。 He always began by shoving me into a
chair before I had time to open my mouth; gave me cordially a large
cigar; and in excellent English would start to talk everlastingly
about the phenomenal severity of the weather。 It was impossible to
threaten a man who; though he possessed the language perfectly;
seemed incapable of understanding any phrase pronounced in a tone
of remonstrance or discontent。 As to quarrelling with him; it
would have been stupid。 The weather was too bitter for that。 His
office was so warm; his fire so bright; his sides shook so heartily
with laughter; that I experienced always a great difficulty in
making up my mind to reach for my hat。
At last the cargo did come。 At first it came dribbling in by rail
in trucks; till the thaw set in; and then fast; in a multitude of
barges; with a great rush of unbound waters。 The gentle master
stevedore had his hands very full at last; and the chief mate
became worried in his mind as to the proper distribution of the
weight of his first cargo in a ship he did not personally know
before。
Ships do want humouring。 They want humouring in handling; and if
you mean to handle them well; they must have been humoured in the
distribution of the weight which you ask them to carry through the
good and evil fortune of a passage。 Your ship is a tender
creature; whose idiosyncrasies must be attended to if you mean her
to come with credit to herself and you through the rough…and…tumble
of her life。
XV。
So seemed to think the new captain; who arrived the day after we
had finished loading; on the very eve of the day of sailing。 I
first beheld him on the quay; a complete stranger to me; obviously
not a Hollander; in a black bowler and a short drab overcoat;
ridiculously out of tone with the winter aspect of the waste…lands;
bordered by the brown fronts of houses with their roofs dripping
with melting snow。
This stranger was walking up and down absorbed in the marked
contemplation of the ship's fore and aft trim; but when I saw him
squat on his heels in the slush at the very edge of the quay to
peer at the draught of water under her counter; I said to myself;
〃This is the captain。〃 And presently I descried his luggage coming
along … a real sailor's chest; carried by means of rope…beckets
between two men; with a couple of leather portmanteaus and a roll
of charts sheeted in canvas piled upon the lid。 The sudden;
spontaneous agility with which he bounded aboard right off the rail
afforded me the first glimpse of his real character。 Without
further preliminaries than a friendly nod; he addressed me: 〃You
have got her pretty well in her fore and aft trim。 Now; what about
your weights?〃
I told him I had managed to keep the weight sufficiently well up;
as I thought; one…third of the whole being in the upper part 〃above
the beams;〃 as the technical expression has it。 He whistled
〃Phew!〃 scrutinizing me from head to foot。 A sort of smiling
vexation was visible on his ruddy face。
〃Well; we shall have a lively time of it this passage; I bet;〃 he
said。
He knew。 It turned out he had been chief mate of her for the two
preceding voyages; and I was already familiar with his handwriting
in the old log…books I had been perusing in my cabin with a natural
curiosity; looking up the records of my new ship's luck; of her
behaviour; of the good times she had had; and of the troubles she
had escaped。
He was right in his prophecy。 On our passage from Amsterdam to
Samarang with a general cargo; of which; alas! only one…third in
weight was stowed 〃above the beams;〃 we had a lively time of it。
It was lively; but not joyful。 There was not even a single moment
of comfort in it; because no seaman can feel comfortable in body or
mind when he has made his ship uneasy。
To travel along with a cranky ship for ninety days or so is no
doubt a nerve…trying experience; but in this case what was wrong
with our craft was this: that by my system of loading she had been
made much too stable。
Neither before nor since have I felt a ship roll so abruptly; so
violently; so heavily。 Once she began; you felt that she would
never stop; and this hope