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第12章

the mirror of the sea-第12章

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knowledge of the language; since he managed invariably to interpret



in the contrary sense everything that was said to him。







Notwithstanding the little iron stove; the ink froze on the swing…



table in the cabin; and I found it more convenient to go ashore



stumbling over the arctic waste…land and shivering in glazed



tramcars in order to write my evening letter to my owners in a



gorgeous cafe in the centre of the town。  It was an immense place;



lofty and gilt; upholstered in red plush; full of electric lights



and so thoroughly warmed that even the marble tables felt tepid to



the touch。  The waiter who brought me my cup of coffee bore; by



comparison with my utter isolation; the dear aspect of an intimate



friend。  There; alone in a noisy crowd; I would write slowly a



letter addressed to Glasgow; of which the gist would be:  There is



no cargo; and no prospect of any coming till late spring



apparently。  And all the time I sat there the necessity of getting



back to the ship bore heavily on my already half…congealed spirits



… the shivering in glazed tramcars; the stumbling over the snow…



sprinkled waste ground; the vision of ships frozen in a row;



appearing vaguely like corpses of black vessels in a white world;



so silent; so lifeless; so soulless they seemed to be。







With precaution I would go up the side of my own particular corpse;



and would feel her as cold as ice itself and as slippery under my



feet。  My cold berth would swallow up like a chilly burial niche my



bodily shivers and my mental excitement。  It was a cruel winter。



The very air seemed as hard and trenchant as steel; but it would



have taken much more than this to extinguish my sacred fire for the



exercise of my craft。  No young man of twenty…four appointed chief



mate for the first time in his life would have let that Dutch



tenacious winter penetrate into his heart。  I think that in those



days I never forgot the fact of my elevation for five consecutive



minutes。  I fancy it kept me warm; even in my slumbers; better than



the high pile of blankets; which positively crackled with frost as



I threw them off in the morning。  And I would get up early for no



reason whatever except that I was in sole charge。  The new captain



had not been appointed yet。







Almost each morning a letter from my owners would arrive; directing



me to go to the charterers and clamour for the ship's cargo; to



threaten them with the heaviest penalties of demurrage; to demand



that this assortment of varied merchandise; set fast in a landscape



of ice and windmills somewhere up…country; should be put on rail



instantly; and fed up to the ship in regular quantities every day。



After drinking some hot coffee; like an Arctic explorer setting off



on a sledge journey towards the North Pole; I would go ashore and



roll shivering in a tramcar into the very heart of the town; past



clean…faced houses; past thousands of brass knockers upon a



thousand painted doors glimmering behind rows of trees of the



pavement species; leafless; gaunt; seemingly dead for ever。







That part of the expedition was easy enough; though the horses were



painfully glistening with icicles; and the aspect of the tram…



conductors' faces presented a repulsive blending of crimson and



purple。  But as to frightening or bullying; or even wheedling some



sort of answer out of Mr。 Hudig; that was another matter



altogether。  He was a big; swarthy Netherlander; with black



moustaches and a bold glance。  He always began by shoving me into a



chair before I had time to open my mouth; gave me cordially a large



cigar; and in excellent English would start to talk everlastingly



about the phenomenal severity of the weather。  It was impossible to



threaten a man who; though he possessed the language perfectly;



seemed incapable of understanding any phrase pronounced in a tone



of remonstrance or discontent。  As to quarrelling with him; it



would have been stupid。  The weather was too bitter for that。  His



office was so warm; his fire so bright; his sides shook so heartily



with laughter; that I experienced always a great difficulty in



making up my mind to reach for my hat。







At last the cargo did come。  At first it came dribbling in by rail



in trucks; till the thaw set in; and then fast; in a multitude of



barges; with a great rush of unbound waters。  The gentle master



stevedore had his hands very full at last; and the chief mate



became worried in his mind as to the proper distribution of the



weight of his first cargo in a ship he did not personally know



before。







Ships do want humouring。  They want humouring in handling; and if



you mean to handle them well; they must have been humoured in the



distribution of the weight which you ask them to carry through the



good and evil fortune of a passage。  Your ship is a tender



creature; whose idiosyncrasies must be attended to if you mean her



to come with credit to herself and you through the rough…and…tumble



of her life。















XV。















So seemed to think the new captain; who arrived the day after we



had finished loading; on the very eve of the day of sailing。  I



first beheld him on the quay; a complete stranger to me; obviously



not a Hollander; in a black bowler and a short drab overcoat;



ridiculously out of tone with the winter aspect of the waste…lands;



bordered by the brown fronts of houses with their roofs dripping



with melting snow。







This stranger was walking up and down absorbed in the marked



contemplation of the ship's fore and aft trim; but when I saw him



squat on his heels in the slush at the very edge of the quay to



peer at the draught of water under her counter; I said to myself;



〃This is the captain。〃  And presently I descried his luggage coming



along … a real sailor's chest; carried by means of rope…beckets



between two men; with a couple of leather portmanteaus and a roll



of charts sheeted in canvas piled upon the lid。  The sudden;



spontaneous agility with which he bounded aboard right off the rail



afforded me the first glimpse of his real character。  Without



further preliminaries than a friendly nod; he addressed me:  〃You



have got her pretty well in her fore and aft trim。  Now; what about



your weights?〃







I told him I had managed to keep the weight sufficiently well up;



as I thought; one…third of the whole being in the upper part 〃above



the beams;〃 as the technical expression has it。  He whistled



〃Phew!〃 scrutinizing me from head to foot。  A sort of smiling



vexation was visible on his ruddy face。







〃Well; we shall have a lively time of it this passage; I bet;〃 he



said。







He knew。  It turned out he had been chief mate of her for the two



preceding voyages; and I was already familiar with his handwriting



in the old log…books I had been perusing in my cabin with a natural



curiosity; looking up the records of my new ship's luck; of her



behaviour; of the good times she had had; and of the troubles she



had escaped。







He was right in his prophecy。  On our passage from Amsterdam to



Samarang with a general cargo; of which; alas! only one…third in



weight was stowed 〃above the beams;〃 we had a lively time of it。



It was lively; but not joyful。  There was not even a single moment



of comfort in it; because no seaman can feel comfortable in body or



mind when he has made his ship uneasy。







To travel along with a cranky ship for ninety days or so is no



doubt a nerve…trying experience; but in this case what was wrong



with our craft was this:  that by my system of loading she had been



made much too stable。







Neither before nor since have I felt a ship roll so abruptly; so



violently; so heavily。  Once she began; you felt that she would



never stop; and this hope

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