the expedition of humphry clinker-第76章
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this condition; screamed aloud; 'Lord have mercy upon us; he has
seen something!' Mrs Tabitha was alarmed; and the whole house in
confusion。 When he was recruited with a dram; I desired him to
explain the meaning of all this agitation; and; with some
reluctance; he owned he had seen a spirit; in the shape of an old
man with a white beard; a black cap; and a plaid night…gown。 He
was undeceived by the admiral in person; who; coming in at this
juncture; appeared to be a creature of real flesh and blood。
Do you know how we fare in this Scottish paradise? We make free
with our landlord's mutton; which is excellent; his poultry…yard;
his garden; his dairy; and his cellar; which are all well stored。
We have delicious salmon; pike; trout; perch; par; &c。 at the
door; for the taking。 The Frith of Clyde; on the other side of
the hill; supplies us with mullet; red and grey; cod; mackarel;
whiting; and a variety of sea…fish; including the finest fresh
herrings I ever tasted。 We have sweet; juicy beef; and tolerable
veal; with delicate bread
from the little town of Dunbritton; and plenty of partridge;
growse; heath cock; and other game in presents。
We have been visited by all the gentlemen in the neighbourhood;
and they have entertained us at their houses; not barely with
hospitality; but with such marks of cordial affection; as one
would wish to find among near relations; after an absence of many
years。
I told you; in my last; I had projected an excursion to the
Highlands; which project I have now happily executed; under the
auspices of Sir George Colquhoun; a colonel in the Dutch service;
who offered himself as our conductor on this occasion。 Leaving
our women at Cameron; to the care and inspection of Lady H C;
we set out on horseback for Inverary; the county town of Argyle;
and dined on the road with the Laird of Macfarlane; the greatest
genealogist I ever knew in any country; and perfectly acquainted
with all the antiquities of Scotland。
The Duke of Argyle has an old castle in Inverary; where he
resides when he is in Scotland; and hard by is the shell of a
noble Gothic palace; built by the last duke; which; when
finished; will be a great ornament to this part of the Highlands。
As for Inverary; it is a place of very little importance。
This country is amazingly wild; especially towards the mountains;
which are heaped upon the backs of one another; making a most
stupendous appearance of savage nature; with hardly any signs of
cultivation; or even of population。 All is sublimity; silence;
and solitude。 The people live together in glens or bottoms; where
they are sheltered from the cold and storms of winter: but there
is a margin of plain ground spread along the sea side; which is
well inhabited and improved by the arts of husbandry; and this I
take to be one of the most agreeable tracts of the whole island;
the sea not only keeps it warm; and supplies it with fish; but
affords one of the most ravishing prospects in the whole world; I
mean the appearance of the Hebrides; or Western Islands to the
number of three hundred; scattered as far as the eye can reach;
in the most agreeable confusion。 As the soil and climate of the
Highlands are but ill adapted to the cultivation of corn; the
people apply themselves chiefly to the breeding and feeding of
black cattle; which turn to good account。 Those animals run wild
all the winter; without any shelter or subsistence; but what they
can find among the heath。 When the snow lies so deep and hard;
that they cannot penetrate to the roots of the grass; they make a
diurnal progress; guided by a sure instinct; to the seaside at
low water; where they feed on the alga marina; and other plants
that grow upon the beach。
Perhaps this branch of husbandry; which required very little
attendance and labour; is one of the principal causes of that
idleness and want of industry; which distinguishes these
mountaineers in their own country。 When they come forth into the
world; they become as diligent and alert as any people upon
earth。 They are undoubtedly a very distinct species from their
fellow subjects of the Lowlands; against whom they indulge an
ancient spirit of animosity; and this difference is very
discernible even among persons of family and education。 The
Lowlanders are generally cool and circumspect; the Highlanders
fiery and ferocious:' but this violence of their passions serves
only to inflame the zeal of their devotion to strangers; which is
truly enthusiastic。
We proceeded about twenty miles beyond Inverary; to the house of
a gentleman; a friend of our conductor; where we stayed a few
days; and were feasted in such a manner; that I began to dread
the consequence to my constitution。
Notwithstanding the solitude that prevails among these mountains;
there is no want of people in the Highlands。 I am credibly
informed that the duke of Argyle can assemble five thousand men
in arms; of his own clan and surname; which is Campbell; and
there is besides a tribe of the same appellation; whose chief' is
the Earl of Breadalbine。 The Macdonalds are as numerous; and
remarkably warlike: the Camerons; M'Leods; Frasers; Grants;
M'Kenzies; M'Kays; M'Phersons; M'Intoshes; are powerful clans; so
that if all the Highlanders; including the inhabitants of the
Isles; were united; they could bring into the field an army of
forty thousand fighting men; capable of undertaking the most
dangerous enterprize。 We have lived to see four thousand of them;
without discipline; throw the whole kingdom of Great Britain into
confusion。 They attacked and defeated two armies of regular
troops accustomed to service。 They penetrated into the centre of
England; and afterwards marched back with deliberation; in the
face of two other armies; through an enemy's country; where every
precaution was taken to cut off their retreat。 I know not any
other people in Europe; who; without the use or knowledge of
arms; will attack regular forces sword in hand; if their chief
will head them in battle。 When disciplined; they cannot fail of
being excellent soldiers。 They do not walk like the generality of
mankind; but trot and bounce like deer; as if they moved upon
springs。 They greatly excel the Lowlanders in all the exercises
that require agility; they are incredibly abstemious; and patient
of hunger and fatigue; so steeled against the weather; that in
travelling; even when the ground is covered with snow; they never
look for a house; or any other shelter but their plaid; in which
they wrap themselves up; and go to sleep under the cope of
heaven。 Such people; in quality of soldiers; must be invincible;
when the business is to perform quick marches in a difficult
country; to strike sudden strokes; beat up the enemy's quarters;
harrass their cavalry; and perform expeditions without the
formality of magazines; baggage; forage; and artillery。 The
chieftainship of the Highlanders is a very dangerous influence
operating at the extremity of the island; where the eyes and
hands of government cannot be supposed to see 'and' act with
precision and vigour。 In order to break the force of clanship;
administration has always practised the political maxim; Divide
et impera。 The legislature hath not only disarmed these
mountaineers; but also deprived them of their antient garb; which
contributed in a great measure to keep up their military spirit;
and their slavish tenures are all dissolved by act of parliament;
so that they are at present as free and independent of their
chiefs; as the law can make them: but the original attachment
still remains; and is founded on something prior to the feudal
system; about which the writers of this age have made such a
pother; as if it was a new discovery; like the Copernican system。
Every peculiarity of policy; custom; and even temperament; is
affectedly traced to this origin; as if the feudal constitution
had not been common to almost all the natives of Europe。 For my
part; I expect to see the use of trunk…hose and buttered ale
ascribed to the influence of the feudal system。 The connection
between the clans and their chiefs is; without all doubt;
patriarchal。 It is founded on hereditary regard and affe