adventures and letters-第53章

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e　first　place；　we　were　so　delayed　by　the　storm　that　we　arrived　at　eight　o'clock　at　night；　so　that　we　missed　seeing　it　in　its　beauty　of　flowers　and　palms。　　And　then　it　was　so　rough　that　they　said　it　was　most　unsafe　for　us　to　attempt　to　go　ashore。　　It　was　a　great　disappointment　but　I　urged　that　every　one　loved　his　own　life；　and　if　the　natives　were　willing　to　risk　theirs　to　sell　us　photographs　and　wicker　baskets　it　was　probably　safer　than　it　looked　So　we　agreed　to　die　together；　and　with　Somers　got　our　rain　coats；　and　the　three　of　us　leaped　into　a　row　boat　pulled　by　two　Portugese　pirates　and　started　off　toward　a　row　of　lamps　on　a　quay　that　seemed　much　lower　than　the　waves。　　The　remainder　on　the　ship　watched　us　disappear　with　ominus　warnings　We　really　had　a　most　adventurous　passagetowards　shore　the　waves　tossed　us　about　like　a　lobster　pot　and　we　just　missed　being　run　down　by　a　coal　barge　and　escaped　an　upset　over　the　bow　anchor　chain　of　a　ship。　　It　was　so　close　that　both　Somers　and　I　had　our　coats　off　and　I　told　Cecil　to　grab　the　chain　But　we　weathered　it　and　landed　at　a　high　gangway　cut　in　the　solid　rock　the　first　three　steps　of　which　were　swamped　by　the　waves。　　A　rope　and　chain　hung　from　the　top　of　the　wharf　and　a　man　swung　his　weight　on　this　and　yanked　us　out　to　the　steps　as　the　boat　was　on　the　wave。　　The　rain　beat　and　the　wind　roared　and　beautiful　palms　lashed　the　air　with　their　fronds　It　was　grand　to　get　on　shore　once　again　At　the　end　of　the　wharf　we　were　hustled　into　a　sled　on　steel　runners；　like　a　hearse　with　curtains　around　it　and　drawn　by　bullocks　The　　streets　were　all　of　mosaic；　thousands　of　little　stones　being　packed　together　like　corn　on　a　cob。　　Over　this　the　heavy　sledge　was　drawn　by　the　bullocks　while　a　small　boy　ran　ahead　through　the　narrow　streets　to　clear　the　way　He　had　a　feather　duster　made　of　horse's　tail　as　a　badge　of　authority　and　he　yelled　some　strange　cry　at　the　empty　streets　and　closed　houses。　　Another　little　boy　in　a　striped　jersey　ran　beside　and　assured　us　he　was　a　guide。　　It　was　like　a　page　out　of　a　fairy　story。　　The　strange　cart　sliding　and　slipping　over　the　stones　which　were　as　smooth　as　ice；　and　the　colored　house　fronts　and　the　palms　and　strange　plants。　　The　darkness　made　it　all　the　more　unreal　There　was　a　governor's　palace　buttressed　and　guarded　by　sentinels　in　a　strange　uniform　and　queer　little　cafe's　under　vinesand　terraces　of　cannon；　and　at　last　a　funny；　pathetic　little　casino。　　It　was　such　a　queer　imitation　of　Aix　and　Monte　Carlo　There　were　chasseurs　and　footmen　in　magnificent　livery　and　stucco　white　walls　ornamented　with　silk　SHAWLS。　　Also　a　very　good　band　and　a　new　roulette　table　Coming　in　out　of　the　night　and　the　rain　it　was　like　a　theatre　after　the　〃dark　scene〃　has　just　passed　There　were　some　most　dignified　croupiers　and　three　English　women　and　a　few　sad　English　men　and　some　very　wicked　looking　natives　in　diamonds　and　white　waistcoats。　　We　had　only　fifteen　minutes　to　spare　so　we　began　playing　briskly　with　two　shilling　pieces　Cecil　with　indifferent　fortune　and　Somers　losing　But　I　won　every　time　and　the　croupiers　gave　me　strange　notes　of　the　Bonco　de　Portugal　which　I　put　back　on　the　board　only　to　get　more　of　a　larger　number　I　felt　greatly　embarrassed　as　I　was　not　a　real　member　of　the　club　and　I　hated　to　blow　in　out　of　a　hurricane　and　take　their　money　and　sail　away　again　So　I　appealed　to　one　of　the　sad　eyed　Englishmen　and　he　assured　me　it　was　all　right；　that　they　welcomed　the　people　from　the　passing　steamers　who　generally　left　a　few　pounds　each　with　the　bank。　　But　the　more　I　spread　the　money　the　more　I　won　until　finally　the　whole　room　gathered　around。　　Then　I　sent　out　and　ordered　champagne　for　everybody　and　spare　gold　to　all　the　waiters　and　still　cashed　in　seventy…five　dollars　in　English　money。　　It　was　pretty　good　for　fifteen　minutes　and　we　went　out　leaving　the　people　open…eyed；　and　hitting　the　champagne　bottles　It　was　all　a　part　of　the　fun　especially　as　with　all　our　gold　we　could　get　nothing　for　supper　but　〃huevos　frite〃　which　was　all　the　Spanish　I　could　remember　and　which　meant　fried　eggs　But　we　were　very　wet　and　hungry　and　we　got　the　eggs　and　some　fruit　and　real　Madeira　wine　and　then　rowed　out　again　rejoicing。　　The　pirates　demanded　their　pay　half　way　to　the　boat　while　we　were　on　the　high　seas　but　they　had　struck　the　very　wrong　men；　and　I　never　saw　a　mutiny　quelled　so　abruptly　Somers　and　I　told　them　we'd　throw　them　overboard　and　row　ourselves　and　they　understood　remarkably　well　The　next　day　we　were　the　admired　and　envied　of　those　who　had　not　had　the　nerve　〃to　dare　to　attempt。〃　　It　was　one　of　the　best　experiences　altogether　we　ever　had　and　I　shall　certainly　put　Madeira　on　my　silver　cup。

RICHARD。


After　their　arrival　at　Cape　Town；　where　Richard　arranged　for　his　wife　to　stay　during　his　absence　at　the　British　front；　he　started　for　Ladysmith；　sailing　on　the　same　vessel　on　which　he　had　left　England。


February　18th；　1900　board　Scot。　DEAR　MOTHER：

I　got　off　yesterday　and　am　hoping　to　get　to　Buller　before　Ladysmith　is　relieved。　　I　could　not　get　to　go　with　Roberts　because　Ralph　has　been　here　four　months　and　has　borne　the　heat　and　burden　of　the　day；　so　although　I　only　came　in　order　to　be　with　Roberts　and　Kitchener　I　could　not　ask　to　have　Ralph　recalled　They　wanted　me　with　Roberts　and　I　wanted　it　but　none　of　us　could　make　up　our　minds　to　turn　down　Ralph。　　So　I　am　going　up　on　this　side　track　on　the　chance　of　seeing　Ladysmith　relieved　and　of　joining　Roberts　with　Buller　later。　　I　shall　be　satisfied　if　I　see　Ladysmith　fall。　　Fortunately　I　am　to　do　a　great　deal　of　cabling　for　The　Mail　every　day　and　that　counts　much　more　with　the　reading　public　than　letters

Cape　Town　is　a　dusty；　wind　ridden　western　town　with　a　mountain　back　of　it　which　one　man　said　was　a　badly　painted　back　drop　The　only　attractive　thing　about　the　town　is　this　mountain　and　a　hotel　situated　at　its　base　in　perfectly　beautiful　gardens。　　Here　Cecil　is　settled。　　I　got　her　a　sitting　room　and　a　big　bedroom　and　The　Mail　agent　or　Pryor　pays　her　150　a　week　and　will　take　good　care　of　her。　　It　really　is　a　beautiful　and　comfortable　hotel　and　grounds　and　she　has　made　many　friends；　and　also　I　forced　a　pitch　battle　with　a　woman　who　was　rude　to　her　when　we　visited　the　hospital　So；　as　the　hospital　people　were　very　keen　to　have　me　see　and　praise　their　hospital　they　have　taken　up　arms　against　the　unfortunate　little　bounder　and　championed　Cecil　and　me。　　Cecil　had　really　nothing　to　do　with　it　as　you　can　imagine　She　only　laughed　but　I　gave　the　lady　lots　to　remember。

On　the　other　hand　every　one　is　as　kind　and　interested　in　Cecil　as　can　be。　　Mrs。　Waldron　whose　son　is　Secretary　to　Milner　and　his　secretary　were　more　than　polite　to　each　of　us。　　Milner　spent　the　whole　evening　we　were　there　talking　to　Cecil　and　not　to　the　lady　we　had　had　the　row　with；　which　was　a　pleasing　triumph。　　He　sent　me　unsolicited　a　most　flattering　personal　letter　to　the　Governor　of　Natal；　saying　that　I　had　come　to　him　with　my　strong　letters　but　that　he　had　so　enjoyed　meeting　me　that　he　wished　to　pass　me　on　on　his　own　account。　　Cecil　asked　me　what　it　was　I　had　talked　so　much　to　him　about　and　I　asked　her　if　it　were　possible　she　couldn't　guess　that　of　course　I　would　be　telling　him　how　to　run　the　colony。　　My　advice　was　to　bombard　Cape　Town　and　make　martial　law；　for　the　Cape　Towners　are　the　most　rotten；　cowardly　lot　of　rebels　I　ever　imagined　as　being　possible。　　He　seemed　so　glad　to　find　any　one　who　appreciated　that　it　was　a　queen's　colony　in　name　only　and　said；　〃Mr。　Davis；　it　is　as　bad　as　thisI　can　take　a　stroll　with　you　from　these　gardens　（we　were　at　the　back　of　the　Government　House）　and　at　the　end　of　our　stroll　we　will　be　in　hostile　territory。〃

We　spent　the　last　day　after　I　had　got　my　orders　to　join　Buller　（who　seemed　very　pleased　to　have　me）　calling　on　the　officials　for　passes　together　and　they　were　in　a　great　state　falling　into　their　coats　and　dressing　guard　for　her　and　were　all　so　friendly　and　hearty。　　The　Censor　seems　to　think　I　am　a　sort　of　Matthew　Arnold　and　should　be　wrapped　in　cotton；　so　does　Pryor　The　Mail　agent　who　apologizes　for　asking　me　to　cable；　which　is　just　what　I　want　to　do。　　They　are　very　generous　and　are　spending　money　like　fresh　air。　　I　am　to　cable　letters　to　Cape　Town；