adventures and letters-第41章

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e　of　this　part　of　Greece　have　been　so　kind　that　I　cannot　say　I　have　been　alone。　　I　never　met　with　strangers　anywhere　who　were　so　hospitable；　so　confiding　and　polite。　　After　that　slaughter…yard　and　pest　place　of　Cuba；　which　is　much　more　terrible　to　me　now　than　it　was　when　I　was　there；　or　before　I　had　seen　that　war　can　be　conducted　like　any　other　evil　of　civilization；　this　opera　bouffe　warfare　is　like　a　duel　between　two　gentlemen　in　the　Bois。　　Cuba　is　like　a　slave…holder　beating　a　slave's　head　in　with　a　whip。　　I　am　a　war　correspondent　only　by　a　great　stretch　of　the　imagination；　I　am　a　peace　correspondent　really；　and　all　the　fighting　I　have　seen　was　by　cannon　at　long　range。　　（I　was　at　long　range；　not　the　cannon。）　　I　am　doing　this　campaign　in　a　personally　conducted　sense　with　no　regard　to　the　Powers　or　to　the　London　Times。　　I　did　send　them　an　article　called　〃The　Piping　Times　of　War。〃　　If　they　do　not　use　it　I　shall　illustrate　it　with　the　photos　I　have　taken　and　sell　it；　for　five　times　the　sum　they　would　give；　to　the　Harpers　who　are　ever　with　us。　　As　I　once　said　in　a　noted　work；　〃Greece；　Mrs。　Morris；　restores　all　your　lost　illusions。〃　　For　the　last　week　I　have　been　back　in　the　days　of　Conrad；　the　Corsair；　and　〃Oh；　Maid　of　Athens；　ere　We　Part。〃　　I　have　been　riding　over　wind…swept　hills　and　mountains　topped　with　snow；　and　with　sheep　and　goats　and　wild　flowers　of　every　color　spreading　for　acres；　and　in　a　land　where　every　man　dresses　by　choice　like　a　grand　opera　brigand；　and　not　only　for　photographic　purposes。　　I　have　been　on　the　move　all　the　time；　chasing　in　the　rear　of　armies　that　turn　back　as　soon　as　I　approach　and　apologize　for　disappointing　me　of　a　battle；　or　riding　to　the　scene　of　a　battle　that　never　comes　off；　or　hastening　to　a　bombardment　that　turns　out　to　be　an　attack　on　an　empty　fort。

I　live　on　brown　bread　and　cheese　and　goat's　milk　and　sleep　like　a　log　in　shepherds'　huts。　　It　is　so　beautiful　that　I　almost　grudge　the　night。　　Nora　and　Mother　could　take　this　trip　as　safely　as　a　regiment　and　would　see　things　out　of　fairyland。　　And　such　adventures！　　Late　in　life　I　am　at　last　having　adventures　and　honors　heaped　upon　me。　　I　was　elected　a　captain　of　a　band　of　brigands　who　had　been　watching　a　mountain　pass　for　a　month；　and　as　it　showed　no　signs　of　running　away　had　taken　to　dancing　on　the　green。　　I　caught　them　at　this　innocent　pastime　and　they　allowed　me　to　photograph　them　and　give　them　wine　at　eight　cents　a　quart　which　we　drank　out　of　a　tin　stovepipe。　　They　drank　about　four　feet　of　stovepipe　or　thirty…six　cents'　worth；　then　they　danced　and　sang　for　me　in　a　circle；　old　men　and　boys；　then　drilled　with　their　carbines；　and　I　showed　them　my　revolver　and　field…glasses　and　themselves　in　the　finder　of　the　camera；　and　when　I　had　to　go　they　took　me　on　their　shoulders　and　marched　me　around　waving　their　rifles。　　Then　the　old　men　kissed　me　on　the　cheek　and　we　all　embraced　and　they　wept；　and　I　felt　as　badly　as　though　I　were　parting　from　fifty　friends。　　They　told　my　guide　that　if　I　would　come　back　they　would　get　fifty　more　〃as　brave　as　they〃　and　I　could　be　captain。　　I　could　not　begin　to　tell　you　all　the　amusing　things　that　have　happened　in　this　one　week。　　I　did　not　want　to　come　at　all；　only　a　stern　sense　of　duty　made　me。　　For　I　wanted　to　write　the　play　in　Charley's　gilded　halls　and　get　to　Paris　and　London。　　But　I　can　never　cease　rejoicing　that　I　took　this　trip。　　And　it　will　make　the　book；　〃A　Year　from　a　Reporter's　Diary；〃　as　complete　as　it　can　be。　　That　was　why　I　came。　　Now　I　have　the　Coronation　of　the　Czar；　the　Millennial　at　Hungary；　the　Inauguration　at　Washington；　the　Queen's　Jubilee；　the　War　in　Cuba；　and　the　Greco…Turkish　War。　　That　is　a　good　year's　work　and　I　mean　to　loaf　after　it。　　You　will　laugh　and　say　that　that　is　what　I　always　say；　but　if　you　knew　how　I　had　to　kick　myself　out　of　Florence　and　the　Cascine　to　come　here　you　would　believe　me。　I　want　a　rest　and　I　am　cutting　this　very　short。

Don't　fail　to　cut　anything　Dad　and　Mother　don't　like　out　of　the　Inauguration　article。　　You　will　have　me　with　you　this　winter　on　my　little　bicycle　and　going　to　dances　and　not　paying　board　to　anyone。　　Remember　how　I　used　to　threaten　to　go　to　Greece　when　the　coffee　was　not　good。　　It　seems　too　funny　now；　for　I　never　was　in　a　better　place；　or　had　more　fun　or　saw　less　of　war　or　the　signs　of　war。

DICK。


May　7；　1897。　10　East　Twenty…Eighth　Street…NIT　Sponitza。　DEAR　CHAS。

This　is　one　of　the　places　out　of　Phroso；　but　as　you　never　　read　Phroso　I　will　cut　all　that　I　hate　to　say　it　so　　soon　again　but　this　is　the　most　beautiful　country　to　travel　over　I　have　seen　It　is　a　fairy　theatrical　grand　opera　country　where　everybody　dresses　in　petticoats　and　gold　braided　vests　and　carry　carbines　to　tend　sheep　with　I　rode　from　Santa　Maura　（see　map）　to　a　spot　opposite　Prevesa　where　they　said　there　was　going　to　be　bombarding　There　was　not　of　course　but　I　had　I　think　the　most　beautiful　ride　of　my　life。　　I　was　absolutely　happylittle　lambs　bleated　and　kids　butted　each　other　and　peasants　in　fur　cloaks　without　sleeves　and　in　tights　like　princes　sat　on　rocks　and　played　pipes　and　the　sky　was　blue；　the　mountains　covered　with　snow　and　the　fields　and　hills　full　of　purple　bushes　and　yellow　and　blue　flowers　and　sheep　There　was　a　cable　station　of　yellow　adobe。　　It　was　the　only　building　and　it　looked　across　at　Prevesa　but　nobody　bombarded。　　The　general　gave　me　cognac　and　the　cable　operator　played　a　guitar　for　me　and　the　preyor　sang　a　fine　bass；　the　corporal　not　to　be　out　done　gave　me　chocolate　and　the　army　stood　around　in　the　sun　and　joined　in　the　conversation　correcting　the　general　and　each　other　and　taking　off　their　hats　to　all　the　noble　sentiments　we　toasted。　　It　was　just　like　a　comic　opera。　　After　a　while　when　I　had　finished　a　fine　hunck　of　cheese　and　hard　eggs　and　brown　bread　I　took　a　photograph　of　the　General　and　the　cable　operator　and　the　officer　with　the　bass　voice　and　half　of　the　army　The　other　half　was　then　sent　to　escort　me　to　this　place。　　It　walked　and　I　rode　and　there　were　many　halts　for　drinks　and　cigarettes。　　They　all　ran　after　a　stray　colt　and　were　lost　for　some　time　but　we　re…mobilized　and　advanced　with　great　effect　into　this　town。　　I　was　here　taken　in　charge　by　at　least　fifty　sailors　and　as　many　soldiers　and　comic　opera　brigands　in　drawers　and　white　petticoats；　　who　conducted　me　to　a　house　on　the　hill　where　the　innkeeper　brought　me　a　live　chicken　to　approve　of　for　dinner。　　Then　the　mayor　of　the　town　turned　up　in　gold　clothes　and　Barrison　Sister　skirts　and　said　the　General　had　telegraphed　about　me　and　that　I　was　his　The　innkeeper　wept　and　said　he　had　seen　me　first　and　the　chorus　of　soldiers；　sailors　and　brigands　all　joined　in。　　I　kept　out　of　it　but　I　knew　the　Mayor　would　win　and　he　did。　　Then　we　went　out　to　a　man…of…war　the　size　of　the　Vagabond　and　were　solemnly　assured　there　would　be　bombarding　of　Prevesa　to…morrow　I　go　to　sleep　in　that　hope。　　We　leave　here　at　seven　crossing　the　river　and　ride　after　the　Greeks　who　are　approaching　Prevesa　from　the　land　side　while　the　men…of…war　bombard　it　from　the　river。　　At　least　that　is　what　they　say。　　I　think　it　is　the　mildest　war　on　both　sides　I　ever　heard　of　and　I　certainly　mean　to　be　a　Times　correspondent　next　time　I　play　at　going　to　war　After　being　insulted　and　frightened　to　death　all　over　Cuba；　this　is　the　pleasantest　picnic　I　was　ever　on　They　seriously　apologized　for　not　bombarding　while　I　was　there　and　I　said　not　to　mention　it　With　lots　of　love；　old　man；　and　to　the　family

DICK。


FLORENCE　May　16；　1897。　DEAR　FAMILY：

Here　I　am　safe　and　sound　again　in　the　old　rooms　in　Florence。　　I　was　gone　twenty…three　days　and　was　traveling　nineteen　of　them；　walking；　riding；　in　sailboats；　in　the　cars；　and　on　steamers。　　I　have　had　more　experiences　and　adventures　than　I　ever　had　before　in　three　months　and　quite　enough　to　last　me　for　years。　　　After　my　happy　ride　through　Turkey　and　the　retreat　of　the　Greek　army　in　Arta；　of　which　I　wrote　you　last；　I　have　been　in　Thessaly　where　I　saw　the　two　days'　battle　of　Velestinos　from　the　beginning　up　to　the　end。　　It　was　the　one　real　battle　of　the　war　and　the　Greeks　fought　well　from　the　first　to　the　last。　　I　left　Athens　on　the　29th　of　April　with　John　Bass；　a　Harvard　graduate；　and　a　most　charming　and　attractive　y