adventures and letters-第37章
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priests took the center of the stage and groaned。 I was there from seven until one。 Six solid hours standing and writing on my hat。 It was a fine hat； for we were in court costume； I being a distinguished visitor； as well as a correspondent。 That was another thing that annoyed me； because Breckinridge； who has acted like a brick； did not think he could put me on both lists； so I chose the correspondents' list； of course； in hopes of seeing the ceremony； but knowing all the time that that meant no balls or functions； so that had I lost the ceremony I would have had nothing； but he arranged it so that I am on both lists。 Not that I care now。 For I am tired to death； and Trowbridge did not get on either list； thanks to the damned Journal and to his using all his friends to help me； so that I guess I will get out and go to Buda Pest and meet you in Paris。 Do not consider this too seriously； for I am writing it just after finishing my cable and having spent the morning on my toes in the chapel。 I will feel better tomorrow。 Anyway； it is done and I am glad； as it was the sight of the century； and I was in it； and now I can spend my good time and money in gay Paree。 Love to all。
DICK。
From Moscow Richard went direct to Buda Pest； where he wrote an article on the Hungarian Millennial。
BUDA PEST
CHAS： May 8th； 1896。
I have just returned from the procession of the Hungarian Nobles。 It was even more beautiful and more interesting than the Czar's entry than which I would not have believed anything could have been more impressive But the first was military； except for the carriages； which were like something out of fairylandto…day； the costumes were all different and mediaeval； some nine hundred years old and none nearer than the 15th Century。 The mis en scene was also much better。 Buda is a clean； old burgh； with yellow houses rising on a steep green hill； red roofs and towers and domes； showing out of the trees It is very high but very steep and the procession wound in and out like a fairy picture I sat on the top of the hill； looking down it to the Danube； which separates Buda from Pest The Emperor sat across the square about 75 yards from our tribune in the balcony of his palace。 We sat in the Palace yard and the procession passed and turned in front of us There were about 1；500 nobles； each dressed to suit himself； in costumes that had descended for generationsof brocade； silk； fur； and gold and silver cloth Each costume averaged； with the trappings of the horse； 5；000 dollars。 Some cost 1；000； some 15；000。 Some wore complete suits of chain armor； with bearskins and great black eagle feathers on their spears just as they were when they invaded Rome Others wore gold chain armor and leopard or wolf skins and their horses were studded with turquoises and trappings of gold and silver and smothered in silver coins It would have been ridiculous if they had not been the real thing in every detail and if you had not known how terribly in earnest the men were。 There is no other country in the world where men change from the most blase and correct of beings； to fairy princes in tights and feathers and jewelled belts and satin coats They were an hour in passing and each one seemed more beautiful than the others I am very glad I came although I was disappointed at missing the accident at Moscow。 It must have been more terrible than Johnstown。 I found the s quite converted into the most awful snobs but the people they worship are as simple and well bred as all gentle people are and I have had the most delightful time with them。 It is so small and quiet after Moscow； and instead of being lost in an avalanche of embassies and suites and missions； I have a distinct personality； as 〃the American；〃 which I share with 〃the〃 Frenchman and four Englishmen。 We are the only six strangers and they give us the run of all that is going on At night we dine at the most remarkable club in the world； on the border of the Park； where the best of all the Gypsey musicians plays for us The music is alone worth having come to hear； and the dear souls who play it； having been told that I like it follow me all around the terrace and sit down three feet away and fix their eyes on you； and then proceed to pull your nerves and heart out of you for an hour at a time One night a man here dipped a ten thousand franc note in his champagne and pasted it on the leader's violin and bowed his thanks； and the leader bowed in return and the next morning sent him the note back in an envelope； saying that the compliment was worth more than the money The leader's name is Berchey and the Hungarians have never allowed him to leave the country for fear he would not be allowed to come back He is a fat； half drunken looking man； with his eyes full of tears half the time he plays。 He looks just like a setter dog and he is so terribly in earnest that when he fixes me with his eyes and plays at me； the court ladies all get up and move their chairs out of his way just as though he were a somnambulist
I leave here Wednesday and reach Paris Friday MORNING the eleventh You must try to meet me at the Cafe de la Paix at half past nine Wait in the corner room if you don't wish to sit outside and as soon as I get washed I will join you for coffee。 It will be fine to see you again and to be done with jumping about from hotel to hotel and to be able to read the signs and to know how to ask for food。 Russian； German and Hungarian have made French seem like my mother tongue
DICK。
CHAPTER X
CAMPAIGNING IN CUBA AND GREECE
In December； 1896； Richard and Frederic Remington； the artist； were commissioned by the New York Journal to visit Cuba which was then at war with Spain。 It was their intention to go from Key West in the Vamoose； a very fast but frail steam…launch； and to make a landing at some uninhabited point on the Cuban coast。 After this their plans seem to have been to trust to luck and the kindliness of the revolutionists。 After waiting for some time at Key West for favorable weather； they at last started out on a dark night to make the crossing。 A few hours after the Vamoose had left Key West a heavy storm aroseapparently much too violent for the slightly built launch。 The crew struck and the captain finally refused to go on to Cuba and put back to Key West。 Shortly after this Remington and my brother reached Havana by a more simple and ostentatious route。 This was my brother's first effort as a war correspondent； and I presume it was this fact and the very indefiniteness of the original plan that caused his mother and father so much uneasiness。 And； indeed； it did prove eventually a hazardous exploit。
way to Key West。 December 19； 1896。 DEAR MOTHER：
I hope you won't be cross with me for going off and not letting you know； but I thought it was better to do it that way as there was such delay in our getting started。 I am going to Cuba by way of Key West with Frederic Remington and Michaelson； a correspondent who has been there for six months。 We are to be taken by the Vamoose the fastest steam yacht made to Santa Clara province where the Cubans will meet us and take us to Gomez。 We will stay a month with him； the yacht calling for copy and sketches once a week； and finally for us in a month。 I get all my expenses and The Journal pays me 3；000 for the month's work。 The Harper's Magazine also takes a story at six hundred dollars and Russell will reprint Remington's sketches and my story in book form； so I shall probably clear 4；000 in the next month or six weeks。 I was a week in getting information on the subject so I know all about it from the men who have just been there and I want you to pay attention to what I tell you they told me and not to listen to any stray visitor who comes in for tea and talks without any tact or knowledge。 There is no danger in the trip except the problem of getting there and getting away again； and that is now removed by The Journal's yacht。 I would have gone earlier had any of the periodicals that asked me to go shown me any way to get there THERE IS NO FEVER THIS TIME OF YEAR and as you know fever never touches me。 It got all the others in Central Amer
