letters from high latitudes-第7章
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ike a little oasis of green； amid the grey stony slopes that surrounded it； and on a nearer approach not unlike the vestiges of a Celtic earthwork； with the tumulus of a hero or two in the centre； but the mounds turned out to be nothing more than the grass roofs of the house and offices； and the banks and dykes but circumvallations round the plot of most carefully cleaned meadow； called the 〃tun；〃 which always surrounds every Icelandic farm。 This word 〃tun〃 is evidently identical with our own Irish 〃TOWN…LAND；〃 the Cornish 〃TOWN；〃 and the Scotch 〃TOON；〃terms which； in their local signification； do not mean a congregation of streets and buildings； but the yard； and spaces of grass immediately adjoining a single house； just as in German we have 〃tzaun；〃 and in the Dutch 〃tuyn；〃 a garden。
Turning to the right； round the head of a little bay； we passed within forty yards of an enormous eagle； seated on a crag； but we had no rifle； and all he did was to rise heavily into the air； flap his wings like a barn…door fowl； and plump lazily down twenty yards farther off。 Soon after； the district we traversed became more igneous； wrinkled； cracked； and ropy than anything we had yet seen； and another two hours' scamper over such a track as till then I would not have believed horses could have traversed； even at a foot's pace； brought us to the solitary farm…house of Bessestad。 Fresh from the neat homesteads of England that we had left sparkling in the bright spring weather； and sheltered by immemorial elms；the scene before us looked inexpressibly desolate。 In front rose a cluster of weather…beaten wooden buildings； and huts like ice…houses； surrounded by a scanty plot of grass； reclaimed from the craggy plain of broken lava that stretchedthe home of ravens and foxeson either side to the horizon。 Beyond； lay a low black breadth of moorland； intersected by patches of what was neither land nor water； and last； the sullen sea； while above our heads a wind； saturated with the damps of the Atlantic； went moaning over the landscape。 Yet this was Bessestad； the ancient home of Snorro Sturleson！
On dismounting from our horses and entering the house things began to look more cheery； a dear old lady； to whom we were successively presented by the Rector； received us； with the air of a princess； ushered us into her best room； made us sit down on the sofathe place of honourand assisted by her niece； a pale lily…like maiden； named after Jarl Hakon's Thora； proceeded to serve us with hot coffee； rusks； and sweetmeats。 At first it used to give me a very disagreeable feeling to be waited upon by the woman…kind of the household； and I was always starting up； and attempting to take the dishes out of their hands； to their infinite surprise； but now I have succeeded in learning to accept their ministrations with the same unembarrassed dignity as my neighbours。 In the end； indeed； I have rather got to like it； especially when they are as pretty as Miss Thora。 To add； moreover； to our content； it appeared that that young lady spoke a little French； so that we had no longer any need to pay our court by proxy； which many persons besides ourselves have found to be unsatisfactory。 Our hostess lives quite alone。 Her son； whom I have the pleasure of knowing； is far away； pursuing a career of honour and usefulness at Copenhagen； and it seems quite enough for his mother to know that he is holding his head high among the princes of literature； and the statesmen of Europe； provided only news of his success and advancing reputation shall occasionally reach her across the ocean。
Of the rooms and the interior arrangement of the house； I do not know that I have anything particular to tell you； they seemed to me like those of a good old…fashioned farmhouse； the walls wainscoted with deal； and the doors and staircase of the same material。 A few prints； a photograph； some book…shelves； one or two little pictures； decorated the parlour； and a neat iron stove； and massive chests of drawers； served to furnish it very completely。 But you must not； I fear； take the drawing…room of Bessestad as an average specimen of the comfort of an Icelandic interieur。 The greater proportion of the inhabitants of the island live much more rudely。 The walls of only the more substantial farmsteads are wainscoted with deal； or even partially screened with drift…wood。 In most houses the bare blocks of lava； pointed with moss； are left in all their natural ruggedness。 Instead of wood； the rafters are made of the ribs of whales。 The same room but too often serves as the dining； sitting； and sleeping place for the whole family； a hole in the roof is the only chimney； and a horse's skull the most luxurious fauteuil into which it is possible for them to induct a stranger。 The parquet is that originally laid down by Nature；the beds are merely boxes filled with feathers or sea…weed；and by all accounts the nightly packing is pretty close； and very indiscriminate。
After drinking several cups of coffee； and consuming at least a barrel of rusks； we rose to go； in spite of Miss Thora's intimation that a fresh jorum of coffee was being brewed。 The horses were resaddled； and with an eloquent exchange of bows； curtseys； and kindly smiles； we took leave of our courteous entertainers； and sallied forth into the wind and rain。 It was a regular race home； single file； the Rector leading； but as we sped along in silence； amid the unchangeable features of this strange land； I could not help thinking of him whose shrewd observing eye must have rested； six hundred and fifty years ago； on the selfsame crags； and tarns； and distant mountain…tops； perhaps on the very day he rode out in the pride of his wealth； talent； and political influence； to meet his murderers at Reikholt。 And mingling with his memory would rise the pale face of Thora；not the little lady of the coffee and buscuits we had just left； but that other Thora； so tender and true； who turned back King Olaf's hell…hounds from the hiding…place of the great Jarl of Lade。
In order that you may understand why the forlorn barrack we had just left； and its solitary inmates； should have set me thinking of the men and women 〃of a thousand summers back；〃 it is necessary I should tell you a little about this same Snorro Sturleson； whose memory so haunted me。
Colonized as Iceland had been；not； as is generally the case； when a new land is brought into occupation； by the poverty…stricken dregs of a redundant population； nor by a gang of outcasts and ruffians； expelled from the bosom of a society which they contaminated；but by men who in their own land had been both rich and noble；with possessions to be taxed； and a spirit too haughty to endure taxation；already acquainted with whatever of refinement and learning the age they lived in was capable of supplying； it is not surprising that we should find its inhabitants； even from the first infancy of the republic； endowed with an amount of intellectual energy hardly to be expected in so secluded a community。
Perhaps it was this very seclusion which stimulated into almost miraculous exuberance the mental powers already innate in the people。 Undistracted during several successive centuries by the bloody wars； and still more bloody political convulsions； which for too long a period rendered the sword of the warrior so much more important to European society than the pen of the scholar； the Icelandic settlers； devoting the long leisure of their winter nights to intellectual occupations； became the first of any European nation to create for themselves a native literature。 Indeed； so much more accustomed did they get to use their heads than their hands； than if an Icelander were injured he often avenged himself； not by cutting the throat of his antagonist； but by ridiculing him in some pasquinade；sometimes； indeed； he did both； and when the King of Denmark maltreats the crew of an Icelandic vessel shipwrecked on his coast； their indignant countrymen send the barbarous monarch word； that by way of reprisal； they intend making as many lampoons on him as there are promontories in his dominions。 Almost all the ancient Scandinavian manuscripts are Icelandic； the negotiations between the Courts of the North were conducted by Iceland
