letters from high latitudes-第43章
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nfidence in the reports of their great plenty became considerably diminished。 Still the walk was very refreshing after our confinement on board； and although the thermometer was below freezing； the cold only made the exercise more pleasant。 A little to the northward I observed； lying on the sea…shore； innumerable logs of driftwood。 This wood is floated all the way from America by the Gulf Stream； and as I walked from one huge bole to another； I could not help wondering in what primeval forest each had grown； what chance had originally cast them on the waters； and piloted them to this desert shore。 Mingled with this fringe of unhewn timber that lined the beach lay waifs and strays of a more sinister kind； pieces of broken spars； an oar； a boat's flagstaff； and a few shattered fragments of some long…lost vessel's planking。 Here and there； too； we would come upon skulls of walrus； ribs and shoulder…blades of bears； brought possibly by the ice in winter。 Turning again from the sea； we resumed our search for deer； but two or three hours' more very stiff walking produced no better luck。 Suddenly a cry from Fitz； who had wandered a little to the right； brought us helter…skelter to the spot where was standing。 But it was not a stag he had called us to come and look upon。 Half imbedded in the black moss at his feet； there lay a grey deal coffin falling almost to pieces with age； the lid was goneblown off probably by the windand within were stretched the bleaching bones of a human skeleton。 A rude cross at the head of the grave still stood partially upright； and a half obliterated Dutch inscription preserved a record of the dead man's name and age。
。。。。。VANDER SCHELLING。。。。 COMMAN。。。。JACOB MOOR。。。。 OB 2 JUNE 1758 AET 44。
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It was evidently some poor whaler of the last century to whom his companions had given the only burial possible in this frost…hardened earth； which even the summer sun has no force to penetrate beyond a couple of inches； and which will not afford to man the shallowest grave。 A bleak resting…place for that hundred years' slumber； I thought； as I gazed on the dead mariner's remains！
〃I was snowed over with snow； And beaten with rains； And drenched with the dews； Dead have I long been；〃
murmured the Vala to Odin in Nifelheim；and whispers of a similar import seemed to rise up from the lidless coffin before us。 It was no brother mortal that lay at our feet； softly folded in the embraces of 〃Mother Earth；〃 but a poor scarecrow； gibbeted for ages on this bare rock； like a dead Prometheus； the vulture； frost； gnawing for ever on his bleaching relics； and yet eternally preserving them！
On another part of the coast we found two other corpses yet more scantily sepulchred； without so much as a cross to mark their resting…place。 Even in the palmy days of the whale…fisheries； it was the practice of the Dutch and English sailors to leave the wooden coffins in which they had placed their comrades' remains； exposed upon the shore； and I have been told by an eye…witness； that in Magdalena Bay there are to be seen； even to this day； the bodies of men who died upwards of 250 years ago； in such complete preservation that； when you pour hot water on the icy coating which encases them； you can actually see the unchanged features of the dead； through the transparent incrustation。
As soon as Fitz had gathered a few of the little flowering mosses that grew inside the coffin； we proceeded on our way； leaving poor Jacob Moorlike his great namesakealone in his glory。
Turning to the right； we scrambled up the spur of one of the mountains on the eastern side of the plain； and thence dived down among the lateral valleys that run up between them。 Although by this means we opened up quite a new system of hills； and basins； and gullies； the general scenery did not change its characteristics。 All vegetationif the black moss deserves such a nameceases when you ascend twenty feet above the level of the sea； and the sides of the mountains become nothing but steep slopes of schist； split and crumbled into an even surface by the frost。 Every step we took unfolded a fresh succession of these jagged spikes and break…neck acclivities； in an unending variety of quaint configuration。 Mountain climbing has never been a hobby of mine； so I was not tempted to play the part of Excelsior on any of these hill sides； but for those who love such exercise a fairer or a more dangerous opportunity of distinguishing themselves could not be imagined。 The supercargo or owner of the very first Dutch ship that ever came to Spitzbergen； broke his neck in attempting to climb a hill in Prince Charles's Foreland。 Barentz very nearly lost several of his men under similar circumstances； and when Scoresby succeeded in making the ascent of another hill near Horn Sound； it was owing to his having taken the precaution of marking each upward step in chalk； that he was ever able to get down again。 The prospect from the summit； the approach to which was by a ridge so narrow that he sat astride upon its edge； seems amply to have repaid the exertion； and I do not think I can give you a better idea of the general effect of Spitzbergen scenery； than by quoting his striking description of the panorama he beheld：
〃The prospect was most extensive and grand。 A fine sheltered bay was seen to the east of us； an arm of the same on the north…east； and the sea； whose glassy surface was unruffled by a breeze； formed an immense expanse on the west； the icebergs rearing their proud crests almost to the tops of mountains between which they were lodged； and defying the power of the solar beams； were scattered in various directions about the sea…coast and in the adjoining bays。 Beds of snow and ice filling extensive hollows； and giving an enamelled coat to adjoining valleys； one of which commencing at the foot of the mountain where we stood extended in a continued line towards the north； as far as the eye could reachmountain rising above mountain； until by distance they dwindled into insignificancythe whole contrasted by a cloudless canopy of deepest azure； and enlightened by the rays of a blazing sun； and the effect aided by a feeling of danger； seated as we were on the pinnacle of a rock almost surrounded by tremendous precipices；all united to constitute a picture singularly sublime。
〃Our descent we found really a very hazardous； and in some instances a painful undertaking。 Every movement was a work of deliberation。 Having by much care； and with some anxiety； made good our descent to the top of the secondary hills； we took our way down one of the steepest banks； and slid forward with great facility in a sitting posture。 Towards the foot of the hill； an expanse of snow stretched across the line of descent。 This being loose and soft； we entered upon it without fear； but on reaching the middle of it； we came to a surface of solid ice； perhaps a hundred yards across； over which we launched with astonishing velocity； but happily escaped without injury。 The men whom we left below； viewed this latter movement with astonishment and fear。〃
So universally does this strange land bristle with peaks and needles of stone； that the views we ourselves obtained though perhaps from a lower elevation； and certainly without the riskscarcely yielded either in extent or picturesque grandeur to the scene described by Dr。 Scoresby。
Having pretty well overrun the country to the northward； without coming on any more satisfactory signs of deer than their hoof…prints in the moss； we returned on board。 The next daybut I need not weary you with a journal of our daily proceedings； for； however interesting each moment of our stay in Spitzbergen was to ourselvesas much perhaps from a vague expectation of what we might see； as from anything we actually did seea minute account of every walk we took； and every bone we picked up； or every human skeleton we came upon； would probably only make you wonder why on earth we should have wished to come so far to see so little。 Suffice it to say that we explored the neighbourhood in the three directions left open to us by the mountains； that we climbed the two most accessible of the adjacent hills； wandered along the margin of th
