letters from high latitudes-第42章
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ck； and water surrounded us； not a sound of any kind interrupted the silence； the sea did not break upon the shore； no bird or any living thing was visible； the midnight sun； by this time muffled in a transparent mist； shed an awful； mysterious lustre on glacier and mountain； no atom of vegetation gave token of the earth's vitality： an universal numbness and dumbness seemed to pervade the solitude。 I suppose in scarcely any other part of the world is this appearance of deadness so strikingly exhibited。 On the stillest summer day in England； there is always perceptible an under…tone of life thrilling through the atmosphere； and though no breeze should stir a single leaf； yetin default of motionthere is always a sense of growth； but here not so much as a blade of grass was to be seen on the sides of the bald excoriated hills。 Primeval rocks and eternal ice constitute the landscape。
The anchorage where we had brought up is the best to be found； with the exception perhaps of Magdalena Bay； along the whole west coast of Spitzbergen； indeed it is almost the only one where you are not liable to have the ice set in upon you at a moment's notice。 Ice Sound； Bell Sound； Horn Soundthe other harbours along the west coastare all liable to be beset by drift…ice during the course of a single night； even though no vestige of it may have been in sight four…and…twenty hours before； and many a good ship has been inextricably imprisoned in the very harbour to which she had fled for refuge。 This bay is completely landlocked； being protected on its open side by Prince Charles's Foreland； a long island lying parallel with the mainland。 Down towards either horn run two ranges of schistose rocks； about 1；500 feet high； their sides almost precipitous； and the topmost ridge as sharp as a knife； and jagged as a saw； the intervening space is entirely filled up by an enormous glacier； which；descending with one continuous incline from the head of a valley on the right； and sweeping like a torrent round the roots of an isolated clump of hills in the centrerolls at last into the sea。 The length of the glacial river from the spot where it apparently first originated； could not have been less than thirty； or thirty…five miles； or its greatest breadth less than nine or ten； but so completely did it fill up the higher end of the valley； that it was as much as you could do to distinguish the further mountains peeping up above its surface。 The height of the precipice where it fell into the sea； I should judge to have been about 120 feet。
On the left a still more extraordinary sight presented itself。 A kind of baby glacier actually hung suspended half way on the hill side； like a tear in the act of rolling down the furrowed cheek of the mountain。
I have tried to convey to you a notion of the falling impetus impressed on the surface of the Jan Mayen ice rivers； but in this case so unaccountable did it seem that the over…hanging mass of ice should not continue to thunder down upon its course； that one's natural impulse was to shrink from crossing the path along which a breatha soundmight precipitate the suspended avalanche into the valley。 Though； perhaps； pretty exact in outline and general effect； the sketch I have made of this wonderful scene； will never convey to you a correct notion of the enormous scale of the distances； and size of its various features。 These glaciers are the principal characteristic of the scenery in Spitzbergen； the bottom of every valley in every part of the island； is occupied and generally completely filled by them； enabling one in some measure to realize the look of England during her glacial period； when Snowdon was still being slowly lifted towards the clouds； and every valley in Wales was brimful of ice。 But the glaciers in English Bay are by no means the largest in the island。 We ourselves got a viewthough a very distant oneof ice rivers which must have been more extensive； and Dr。 Scoresby mentions several which actually measured forty or fifty miles in length； and nine or ten in breadth； while the precipice formed by their fall into the sea； was sometimes upwards of 400 or 500 feet high。 Nothing is more dangerous than to approach these cliffs of ice。 Every now and then huge masses detach themselves from the face of the crystal steep； and topple over into the water； and woe be to the unfortunate ship which might happen to be passing below。 Scoresby himself actually witnessed a mass of ice； the size of a cathedral； thunder down into the sea from a height of 400 feet； frequently during our stay at Spitzbergen we ourselves observed specimens of these ice avalanches； and scarcely an hour passed without the solemn silence of the bay being disturbed by the thunderous boom resulting from similar catastrophes occurring in adjacent valleys。
As soon as we had thoroughly taken in the strange features of the scene around us； we all turned in for a night's rest。 I was dog tired； as much with anxiety as want of sleep； for in continuing to push on to the northward in spite of the ice； I naturally could not help feeling that if any accident occurred； the responsibility would rest with me； and although I do not believe that we were at any time in any real danger； yet from our inexperience in the peculiarities of arctic navigation； I think the coolest judgment would have been liable to occasional misgivings as to what might arise from possible contingencies。 Now； however； all was right； the result had justified our anticipations； we had reached the so longed…for goal； and as I stowed myself snugly away in the hollow of my cot； I could not help heartily congratulating myself thatfor that night at all events there was no danger of the ship knocking a hole in her bottom against some hummock which the lookout had been too sleepy to observe； and that Wilson could not come in the next morning and announce 〃ice all round； a…all ro…ound！〃 In a quarter of an hour afterwards； all was still on board the 〃Foam；〃 and the lonely little ship lay floating on the glassy bosom of the sea； apparently as inanimate as the landscape。
My feelings on awakening next morning were very pleasant； something like what one used to feel the first morning after one's return from school； on seeing pink curtains glistening round one's head； instead of the dirty…white boards of a turned…up bedstead。 When Wilson came in with my hot water； I could not help triumphantly remarking to him；〃Well； Wilson； you see we've got to Spitzbergen； after all！〃 But Wilson was not a man to be driven from his convictions by facts； he only smiled grimly； with a look which meant〃Would we were safe back again！〃 Poor Wilson！ he would have gone only half way with Bacon in his famous Apothegm； he would willingly 〃commit the Beginnings of all actions to Argus with his hundred eyes； and the Ends〃to Centipede； with his hundred legs。 〃First to watch； and then to speed〃away！ would have been his pithy emendation。
Immediately after breakfast we pulled to the shore； carrying in the gig with us the photographic apparatus； tents； guns； ammunition； and the goat。 Poor old thing！ she had suffered dreadfully from sea…sickness； and I thought a run ashore might do her good。 On the left…hand side of the bay； between the foot of the mountain and the sea； there ran a low flat belt of black moss； about half a mile broad； and as this appeared the only point in the neighbourhood likely to offer any attraction to reindeer； it was on this side that I determined to land。 My chief reason for having run into English Bay rather than Magdalena Bay was because we had been told at Hammerfest that it was the more likely place of the two for deer； and as we were sadly in want of fresh meat this advantage quite decided us in our choice。 As soon； therefore； as we had superintended the erection of the tent； and set Wilson hard at work cleaning the glasses for the photographs； we slung our rifles on our backs； and set off in search of deer。 But in vain did I peer through my telescope across the dingy flat in front； not a vestige of a horn was to be seen； although in several places we came upon impressions of their track。 At last our confidence in the reports of their great plenty became considerably diminished。 Still the walk was ve
