letters from high latitudes-第34章
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ulness and incessant attention to the helm the icebergs that we have cleared。
But the difficulties of this navigation are nothing in clear weather； as compared to what they are in a fog。 Then； notwithstanding the slowness of the speed； it requires as much luck as skill to avoid collisions。 Thus it happened that after having escaped the ice a first time； and having steered E。N。E。； we found ourselves suddenly； towards two o'clock of that same day （the 9th）； not further than a quarter of a mile from the field ice which the fog had hidden from us。 Generally speaking； the Banquise that we coasted along for three days； and that we traced with the greatest care for nearly a hundred leagues； presented to us an irregular line of margin； running from W。S。W。 to E。N。E。； and thrusting forward toward the south…capes and promontories of various sizes； and serrated like the teeth of a saw。 Every time that we bore up for E。N。E。； we soon found ourselves in one of the gulfs of ice formed by the indentations of the Banquise。 It was only by steering to the S。W。 that we got free from the floating icebergs； to resume our former course as soon as the sea was clear。
The further we advanced to the northward； the thicker became the fog and more intense the cold （two degrees centig； below zero）； and snow whirled round in squalls of wind； and fell in large flakes on the deck。 The ice began to present a new aspect； and to assume those fantastic and terrible forms and colours； which painters have made familiar to us。 At one time it assumed the appearance of mountain…peaks covered with snow； furrowed with valleys of green and blue； more frequently they appeared like a wide flat plateau； as high as the ship's deck； against which the sea rolled with fury； hollowing its edges into gulfs； or breaking them into perpendicular cliffs or caverns； into which the sea rushed in clouds of foam。
We often passed close by a herd of seals； which…stretched on these floating islands； followed the ship with a stupid and puzzled look。 We were forcibly struck with the contrast between the fictitious world in which we lived on board the ship； and the terrible realities of nature that surrounded us。 Lounging in an elegant saloon； at the corner of a clear and sparkling fire； amidst a thousand objects of the arts and luxuries of home； we might have believed that we had not changed our residence； or our habits； or our enjoyments。 One of Strauss's waltzes； or Schubert's melodiesplayed on the piano by the band…mastercompleted the illusion； and yet we had only to rub off the thin incrustation of frozen vapour that covered the panes of the windows； to look out upon the gigantic and terrible forms of the icebergs dashed against each other by a black and broken sea； and the whole panorama of Polar nature； its awful risks； and its sinister splendours。
Meanwhile； we progressed but very slowly。 On the 10th of July we were still far from the meridian of Jan Mayen； when we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by a fog； and at the bottom of one of the bays formed by the field ice。 We tacked immediately； and put the ship about； but the wind had accumulated the ice behind us。 At a distance the circle that enclosed us seemed compact and without egress。 We considered this as the most critical moment of our expedition。 Having tried this icy barrier at several points； we found a narrow and tortuous channel； into which we ventured； and it was not till after an hour of anxieties that we got a view of the open sea； and of a passage into it。 From this moment we were able to coast along the Banquise without interruption。
On the 11th of July at 6 A。M。 we reached； at last； the meridian of Jan Mayen； at about eighteen leagues' distance ＇Footnote： I think there must be some mistake here； when we parted company with the 〃Reine Hortense；〃 we were still upwards of 100 miles distant from the southern extremity of Jan Mayen。＇ from the southern part of that island； but we saw the ice…field stretching out before us as far as the eye could reach； hence it became evident that Jan Mayen was blocked up by the ice； at least along its south coast。 To ascertain whether it might still be accessible from the north； it would have been necessary to have attempted a circuit to the eastward； the possible extent of which could not be estimated； moreover； we had consumed half our coals； and had lost all hope of being rejoined by the 'Saxon。' Thus forced to give up any further attempts in that direction； Commodore de la Ronciere； having got the ship clear of the floating ice； took a W。S。W。 course； in the direction of Reykjavik。
The instant the 'Reine Hortense' assumed this new course； a telegraphic signalas had been previously arranged acquainted Lord Dufferin with our determinations。 Almost immediately； the young Lord sent on board us a tin box； with two letters； one for his mother； and one for our commander。 In the latter he stated thatfinding himself clear of the ice； and master of his own movementshe preferred continuing his voyage alone； uncertain whether he should at once push for Norway； or return to Scotland。 ＇Footnote： I was purposely vague as to my plans； lest you might learn we still intended to go on。＇ The two ropes that united the vessels were then cast off； a farewell hurrah was given； and in a moment the English schooner was lost in the fog。
Our return to Reykjavik afforded no incident worth notice； the 'Reine Hortense；' keeping her course outside the ice； encountered no impediment； except from the intense fogs； which forced herfrom the impossibility of ascertaining her positionto lie to； and anchor off the cape during part of the day and night of the 13th。
On the morning of the 14th； as we were getting out at the Dyre Fiord； where we had anchored； we metto our great astonishmentthe 'Cocyte' proceeding northward。 Her commander； Sonnart； informed us that on the evening of the 12th； the 'Saxon'in consequence of the injuries she had received； had been forced back to Reykjavik。 She had hardly reached the ice on the 9th； when she came into collision with it； five of her timbers had been stove in； and an enormous leak had followed。 Becoming water…logged； she was run ashore； the first tine at Onundarfiord； and again in Reykjavik roads； whither she had been brought with the greatest difficulty。〃
LETTER X。
BUCOLICSTHE GOATMAID MARIANA LAPP LADYLAPP LOVE… MAKINGTHE SEA…HORSEMANTHE GULF STREAMARCTIC CURRENTSA DINGY EXPEDITIONA SCHOOL OF PERIPATETIC FISHESALTENTHE CHATELAINE OF KAAFIORDSTILL NORTHWARD HO！
July 27th； Alten。
This letter ought to be an Eclogue； so pastoral a life have we been leading lately among these pleasant Nordland valleys。 Perhaps it is only the unusual sight of meadows； trees and flowers； after the barren sea； and still more barren lands we have been accustomed to； that invests this neighbourhood with such a smiling character。 Be that as it may； the change has been too grateful not to have made us seriously reflect on our condition； and we have at last determined that not even the envious ocean shall for the future cut us off from the pleasures of a shepherd life。 Henceforth； the boatswain is no longer to be the only swain on board！ We have purchased an ancient goata nanny…goatso we may be able to go a…milking upon occasion。 Mr。 Webster； late of her Majesty's Foot…guards； carpenter； etc。； takes brevet…rank as dairy…maid； and our venerable passenger is at this moment being inducted into a sumptuous barrel ＇Footnote： The cask in question was bought in order to be rigged up eventually into a crow's…nest； as soon as we should again find ourselves among the ice。＇ which I have had fitted up for her reception abaft the binnacle。 A spacious meadow of sweet…scented hay has been laid down in a neighbouring corner for her further accommodation； and the Doctor is tuning up his flageolet； in order to complete the bucolic character of the scene。 The only personage amongst us at all disconcerted by these arrangements is the little white fox which has come with us from Iceland。 Whether he considers the admission on board of so domestic an animal to be a reflection on his own wild Viking habits； I cannot say； but there is no impertinenceeven to the nibbling of her beard when she is asleep
