letters from high latitudes-第33章
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from Paris； that it was our business to make ourselves well acquainted with the southern part of the ice…field； from Reykjavik to Cape Farewell。 But while we were touching at Peterhead； the principal port for the fitting of vessels destined for the seal fishery； the Prince； and M。 de la Ronciere； Commander of 'La Reine Hortense；' gatheredfrom conversations with the fishermen just returned from their spring expeditionsome important information on the actual state of the ice。 They learnt from them that navigation was completely free this year round the whole of Iceland； that the ice…field resting on Jan Mayen Island； and surrounding it to a distance of about twenty leagues； extended down the south…west along the coast of Greenland； but without blocking up the channel which separates that coast from that of Iceland。 These unhoped…for circumstances opened a new field to our explorations； by allowing us to survey all that part of the Banquise which extends to the north of Iceland； thus forming a continuation to the observations made by the 'Recherche；' and to those which we ourselves intended to make during our voyage to Greenland。 The temptation was too great for the Prince； and Commander de la Ronciere was not a man to allow an opportunity to escape for executing a project which presented itself to him with the character of daring and novelty。
But the difficulties of the enterprise were serious； and of such a nature that no one but a sailor experienced in navigation is capable of appreciating。 The 'Reine Hortense' is a charming pleasure…boat； but she offers very few of the requisites for a long voyage； and she was destitute of all the special equipment indispensable for a long sojourn in the ice。 There was room but for six days' coals； and for three weeks' water： As to the sails； one may say the masts of the corvette are merely for show； and that without steam it would be impossible to reckon on her making any way regularly and uninterruptedly。 Add to this； that she is built of iron；that is to say； an iron sheet of about two centimbtres thick constitutes all her planking；and that her deckdivided into twelve great panels； is so weak that it has been thought incapable of carrying guns proportioned to her tonnage。 Those who have seen the massive vessels of the fishermen of Peterhead； their enormous outside planking； their bracings and fastenings in wood and in iron； and their internal knees and stancheons； may form an idea from such precautionsimposed by long experience of the nature of the dangers that the shockor even the pressure of the icemay cause to a ship in the latitudes that we were going to explore。
The 'Cocyte' had also been placed at the disposal of H。I。H。 Prince Napoleon。 This vessel which arrived at Reykjavik the same day that we did； the 30th of Juneis a steam schooner； with paddles； standing the sea well； carying coals for twelve days； but with a deplorably slow rate of speed。
We found besides at Reykjavik the war transport 'La Perdrix' and two English merchant steamers； the 'Tasmania and the 'Saxon；' freighted by the Admiralty to take to Iceland coals necessary for our voyage to Greenland。 These five vessels； with the frigate 'Artemise；' which performed he duties of guardship； formed the largest squadron which had ever assembled in the harbour of the capital of Iceland。
Unfortunately； these varied and numerous elements had nothing in common； and Commodore de la Ronciere soon saw that extraneous help would afford us no additional security； and； in short； that the 'Refine Bortense' obliged to go fastas her short supplies would not allow long voyages； had to reckon on herself alone。 However； the ＇English＇ captain of the 'Saxon' expressing a great desire to visit these northern parts； and displaying on this subject a sort of national vanity； besides promising an average speed of seven knots an hour； it was decided thatat all events； that vessel should start alone with the 'Refine Hortense；' whose supply of coals it would be able to replenish； in the eventa doubtful one； it is trueof our making the coast of Jan Mayen's Island； and finding a good anchorage。 The 'Reine Hortense' hadby the help of a supplementary load on decka supply of coals for eight days； and immediately on starting； the crew as well as the passengers； were to be put on a measured allowance of water。
A few hours before getting under way； the expedition was completed by the junction of a new companion； quite unexpected。 We found in Reykjavik harbour a yacht belonging to Lord Dufferin。 The Prince； seeing his great desire to visit the neighbourhood of Jan Mayen； offered to take his schooner in tow of the 'Reine Hortense。' It was a fortunate accident for a seeker of maritime adventures； and an hour afterwards； the proposition having been eagerly accepted； the Englishman was attached by two long cables to the stern of our corvette。
On the 7th of July； 1856； at two o'clock in the morning； after a ball given by Commander de Mas on board the 'Artemise；'the 'Reine Hortense；' with the English schooner in tow； left Reykjavik harbour； directing her course along the west coast of Iceland； towards Onundarfiord； where we were to join the 'Saxon' which had left a few hours before us。 At nine o'clock； the three vessels； steering east…north…east； doubled the point of Cape North。 At noon our observation of the latitude placed us about 67 degrees。 We had just crossed the Arctic circle。 The temperature was that of a fine spring day； 10 degrees centigrade （50 degrees Farenh。）。
The 'Reine Hortense' diminished her speed。 A rope thrown across one of the towing…ropes enabled Lord Dufferin to haul one of his boats to our corvette。 He himself came to dine with us； and to be present at the ceremony of crossing the polar circle。 As to the 'Saxon；' M。 de la Ronciere perceived by this time that the worthy Englishman had presumed too much on his power。 The 'Saxon' was evidently incapable of following us。 The captain； therefore； made her a signal that she was to take her own course； to try and reach Jan Mayen； and if she could not succeed； to direct her course on Onundarfiord； and there to wait for us。 The English vessel fell rapidly astern； her hull disappeared； then her sails； and in the evening every trace of her smoke had faded from the horizon。
In the evening； the temperature grew gradually colder； that of the water underwent a more rapid and significant change。 At twelve at night it was only three degrees centig。 （about 37 degrees Fahr。）。 At that moment the vessel plunged into a bank of fog； the intensity of which we were enabled to ascertain； from the continuance of daylight in these latitudes at this time of the year。 There are tokens that leave no room to doubt that we are approaching the solid ice。 True enough：at two o'clock in the morning the officer on watch sees close to the ship a herd of seals； inhabitants of the field ice。 A few minutes later the fog clears up suddenly； a ray of sunshine gilds the surface of the sea； lighting up millions of patches of sparkling white； extending to the farthest limit of the horizon。 These are the detached hummocks which precede and announce the field ice； they increase in size and in number as we proceed。 At three o'clock in the afternoon we find ourselves in front of a large pack which blocks up the sea before us。 We are obliged to change our course to extricate ourselves from the ice that surrounds us。 This is an evolution requiring on the part of the commander the greatest precision of eye； and a perfect knowledge of his ship。 The 'Reine Hortense；' going half speed； with all the officers and the crew on deck； glides along between the blocks of ice； some of which she seems almost to touch； and the smallest of which would sink her instantly if a collision took place。 Another danger； which it is almost impossible to guard against； threatens a vessel in those trying moments。 If a piece of ice gets under the screw； it will be inevitably smashed like glass； and the consequences of such an accident might be fatal。
The little English schooner follows us bravely； bounding in our track； and avoiding only by a constant watchfulness and incessant attention to the helm the icebergs that we have cleared。
But the difficultie
