letters from high latitudes-第21章
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The clergy are paid by tithes； their stipends are exceedingly small； generally not averaging more than six or seven pounds sterling per annum； their chief dependence being upon their farms。 Like St。 Dunstan； they are invariably excellent blacksmiths。
As we approached Reykjavik； for the first time during the whole journey we began to have some little trouble with the relay of ponies in front。 Whether it was that they were tired； or that they had arrived in a district where they had been accustomed to roam at large； I cannot tell； but every ten minutes； during the last six or seven miles； one or other of them kept starting aside into the rocky plain； across which the narrow bridle…road was carried； and cost us many a weary chase before we could drive them into the track again。 At last； though not till I had been violently hugged； kissed； and nearly pulled off my horse by an enthusiastic and rather tipsy farmer； who mistook me for the Prince； we galloped； about five o'clock； triumphantly into the town； without an accident having occurred to man or horse during the whole course of the expeditionalways excepting one tremendous fall sustained by Wilson。 It was on the evening of the day we left the Geysirs。 We were all galloping in single file down the lava pathway； when suddenly I heard a cry behind me； and then the noise as of a descending avalanche。 On turning round； behold！ both Wilson and his pony lay stretched upon the ground； the first some yards in advance of the other。 The poor fellow evidently thought he was killed； for he neither spoke nor stirred； but lay looking up at me； with blank； beady eyes as I approached to his assistance。 On further investigation； neither of the sufferers proved to be a bit the worse。
The cook； and the rest of the party； did not arrive till about midnight； but I make no doubt that when that able and spirited individual did at length reascend the side of the schooner； his cheek must have burned with pride at the reflection； that during the short period of his absence on shore he had added to his other accomplishments that of becoming a most finished cavalier。 I do not mean by that to imply that he was at all DONE。 Although we had enjoyed our trip so much； I was not sorry to find myself on board。 The descent again； after our gipsy life； into the coquettish little cabin； with its books and dear home faces； quite penetrated me with that feeling of snug content of which I believe Englishmen alone are susceptible。
I have now to relate to you a most painful occurrence which has taken place during my absence at the Geysirs； no less a catastrophe； in fact； than a mutiny among my hitherto most exemplary ship's company。 I suppose they； too； had occasion to bear witness to the proverbial hospitality of Iceland； salt junk； and the innocuous cates which generally compose ship…board rations； could never have produced such an emergency。 Suffice it to say； that 〃Dyspepsia and her fatal train〃 having taken hold of them； in a desperate hour they determined on a desperate deed；and rushing aft in a body； demanded of my faithful steward； not only access to the penetralia of the absent Doctor's cupboard； but that he himself should administer to them whatever medicaments he could come by。 In vain Mr。 Grant threw himself across the cabin…door。 Remonstrance was useless； my horny…handed lambs were inexorableunless he acceded to their demands； they threatened to report him when I returned！ The Doctor's sanctuary was thrown open； and all its sweetsif such they may be calledwere rifled。 A huge box of pills； the first that came to handthey happened to be calomelwas served out； share and share alike； with concomitant vials of wrath； of rhubarb and senna； and it was not until the last drop of castor oil had been carefully licked up that the marauders suffered their unwilling accomplice to retire to the fastnesses of his pantry。
An avenging Nemesis； however； hovered over the violated shrine of Esculapius。 By the time I returned the exigencies of justice had been more than satisfied； and the outrage already atoned for。 The rebellious HANDS were become most penitent STOMACHS； and fresh from the Oriental associations suggested by our last day's ride； I involuntarily dismissed the disconsolate culprits； with the Asiatic form of condonation： 〃Mashallah； you have made your faces white！ Go in peace！〃
During our expedition to the interior； the harbour of Reykjavik had become populous with new arrivals。 First of all； there was my old friend； the 〃Reine Hortense；〃 the Emperor's yacht； a magnificent screw corvette of 1；100 tons。 I had last parted with her three years ago in the Baltic； after she had towed me for eighty miles on our way from Bomarsund to Stockholm。 Then there were two English screw steamers； of about 700 tons each； taken up by the French Government as tenders to the yacht； not to mention a Spanish brig； and one or two other foreigners； which； together with the frigate； the barque； and the vessels we had found here on our first arrival； made the usually deserted bay look quite lively。 Until this year no steamers had ever cockneyfied its secluded waters。
This morning； directly after breakfast； I went on board the 〃Reine Hortense〃 to pay my respects to Prince Napoleon； and H。I。H。 has just done me the honour of coming to inspect the 〃Foam。〃 When I was first presented to him at the Geysirs； he asked me what my plans might be； and on my mentioning my resolution of sailing to the North； he most kindly proposed that I should come with him West to Greenland instead。 My anxiety； however； to reach； if it were possible； Jan Mayen and Spitzbergen； prevented my accepting this most tempting offer； but in the meantime； H。I。H。 has； it seems； himself determined to come to Jan Mayen； and he is kind enough to say that if I can get ready for a start by six o'clock to…morrow morning； the 〃Reine Hortense〃 shall take me in tow。 To profit by this proposal would of course entail the giving up my plan of riding across the interior of Iceland； which I should be very loth to do； at the same time； the season is so far advanced； the mischances of our first start from England have thrown us so far behind in our programme； that it would seem almost a pity to neglect such an opportunity of overrunning the time that has been lost； and after all； these Polar islands； which so few have visited； are what I am chiefly bent on seeing。 Before I close this letter the thing will have been settled one way or another； for I am to have the honour of dining with the Prince this evening； and between this and then I shall have made up my mind。 After dinner there is to be a ball on board the frigate； to which all the rank； fashion； and beauty of Reykjavik have been invited。
3 A。M。
I give up seeing the rest of Iceland； and go North at once。 It has cost me a struggle to come to this conclusion； but on the whole I think it will be better。 Ten or fifteen days of summer…time become very precious in these latitudes； and are worth a sacrifice。 At this moment we have just brought up astern of the 〃Reine Hortense；〃 and are getting our hawsers bent； ready for a start in half an hour's time。 My next letter； please God； will be dated from Hammerfest。 I suppose I shall be about fifteen or twenty days getting there； but this will depend on the state of the ice about Jan Mayen。 If the anchorage is clear； I shall spend a few days in examining the island； which by all accounts would appear to be most curious。
I happened first to hear of its existence from a very intelligent whaling Captain I fell in with among the Shetlands four years ago。 He was sailing home to Hull； after fishing the Spitzbergen waters； and had sighted the huge mountain which forms the northern extremity of Jan Mayen； on his way south。 Luckily； the weather was fine while he was passing； and the sketch he made of it at the time so filled me with amazement； that I then determined； if ever I got the chance； to go and see with my own eyes so great a marvel。 Imagine a spike of igneous rock （the whole island is volcanic）； shooting straight up out of the sea to the height of 6；870 feet； not broad…based like a pyramid； nor round…topped like a sugar…loaf； but needle…shaped； pointed like the spire of a chur
