letters from high latitudes-第19章
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orass； in hopes of being able to shoot a few additional plover。 In a couple of hours afterwards； just as I was stalking a duck that lay innocently basking on the bosom of the river； a cloud of horsemen swept round the base of the distant mountain； and returning home； I found the encampment I had left so desertedalive and populous with as merry a group of Frenchmen as it might ever be one's fortune to fall in with。 Of course they were dressed in every variety of costumes； long boots； picturesque brigand…looking hats； with here and there a sprinkling of Scotch caps from Aberdeen； but whatever might be the head…dress； underneath you might be sure to find a kindly； cheery face。 My old friend Count Trampe； who had accompanied the expedition； at once presented me to the Prince； who was engaged in sounding the depth of the pipe of the Great Geysir；and encouraged by the gracious reception which His Imperial Highness accorded me； I ventured to inform him that 〃there was a poor banquet toward；〃 of which I trusted heand as many of his officers as the table could holdwould condescend to partake。 After a little hesitation；caused； I presume； by fear of our being put to inconvenience；he was kind enough to signify his acceptance of my proposal； and in a few minutes afterwards with a cordial frankness I fully appreciated； allowed me to have the satisfaction of receiving him as a guest within my tent。
Although I never had the pleasure of seeing Prince Napoleon before； I should have known him among a thousand； from his remarkable likeness to his uncle； the first Emperor。 A stronger resemblance； I conceive； could scarcely exist between two persons。 The same delicate； sharply cut features； thin refined mouth； and firm determined jaw。 The Prince's frame； however； is built altogether on a larger scale； and his eyes； instead of being of a cold piercing blueare soft and brown； with quite a different expression。
Though of course a little Barmicidal； the dinner went off very well； as every dinner must do where such merry companions are the convives。 We had some difficulty about stowing away the legs of a tall philosopher； and to each knife three individuals were told off； but the birds were not badly cooked； and the plum…pudding arrived in time to convert a questionable success into an undoubted triumph。
On rising from table； each one strolled away in whatever direction his particular taste suggested。 The painter to sketch； the geologist to break stones； the philosopher to moralize； I presume；at least； he lighted a cigar；and the rest to superintend the erection of the tents which had just arrived。
In an hour afterwards； sleepthough not altogether silencefor loud and strong rose the choral service intoned to Morpheus from every sidereigned supreme over the encampment； whose canvas habitations； huddled together on the desolated plateau； looked almost Crimean。 This last notion； I suppose； must have mingled with my dreams； for not long afterwards I found myself in full swing towards a Russian battery； that banged and bellowed； and cannonaded about my ears in a fashion frightful to hear。 Apparently I was serving in the French attack； for clear and shrill above the tempest rose the cry； 〃Alerte！ alerte！ aux armes； Monseigneur！ aux armes！〃 The ground shook； volumes of smoke rose before my eyes； and completely hid the defences of Sebastopol； which fact； on reflection； I perceived to be the less extraordinary； as I was standing in my shirt at the door of a tent in Iceland。 The premonitory symptoms of an eruption； which I had taken for a Russian cannonading； had awakened the French sleepers；a universal cry was pervading the encampment；and the entire settlement had turned outchiefly in bare legsto witness the event which the reverberating earth and steaming water seemed to prognosticate。 Old Geysir； however； proved less courteous than we had begun to hope； for after labouring uneasily in his basin for a few minutes； he roused himself on his hind…legsfellmade one more effort；and then giving it up as a bad job； sank back into his accustomed inaction； and left the disappointed assembly to disperse to their respective dormitories。
The next morning； the whole encampment was stirring at an early hour with preparations for departure； for unsatisfactory as it had been； the French considered themselves absolved by the partial performance they had witnessed from any longer 〃making antechamber；〃 as they said； to so capricious a functionary。 Being very anxious to have one more trial at photographing Strokr； I ventured to suggest that the necessary bolus of sods should be administered to him。 In a few minutes two or three cart…loads of turf were seething and wallowing within him。 In the meantime； Fitz seized the opportunity of the Prince being at breakfast to do a picture of him seated on a chair； with his staff standing around him； and looking the image of Napoleon before the battle of Austerlitz。 A good twenty minutes had now elapsed since the emetic had been given；no symptoms of any result had as yet appeared；and the French began to get impatient； inuendoes were hazarded to the disadvantage of Strokr's reputation for consistency；inuendoes which I confess touched me nearly； and made me feel like a show…man whose dog has misbehaved。 At last the whole party rode off； but the rear horseman had not disappeared round the neighbouring hill beforesplash！ bang！fifty feet up into the air drove the dilatory fountain； with a fury which amply avenged the affront put upon it； and more than vindicated my good opinion。 All our endeavours； however； to photograph the eruption proved abortive。 We had already attempted both Strokr and the Great Geysir； but in the case of the latter the exhibition was always concluded before the plate could be got ready； and although； as far as Strokr is concerned； you can tell within a certain period when the performance will take place； yet the interval occurring between the dose and the explosion varies so capriciously； that unless you are content to spend many days upon the spot； it would be almost impossible to hit it off exactly。 On this last occasion；although we did not prepare the plate until a good twenty minutes after the turf was thrown in；the spring remained inactive so much longer than is usual that the collodion became quite insensitive； and the eruption left no impression whatever upon it。
Of our return journey to Reykjavik I think I have no very interesting particulars to give you。 During the early part of the morning there had been a slight threatening of rain； but by twelve o'clock it had settled down into one of those still dark days； which wrap even the most familiar landscape in a mantle of mystery。 A heavy； low…hung； steel…coloured pall was stretched almost entirely across the heavens； except where along the flat horizon a broad stripe of opal atmosphere let the eye wander into space； in search of the pearly gateways of Paradise。 On the other side rose the contorted lava mountains； their bleak heads knocking against the solid sky and stained of an inky blackness； which changed into a still more lurid tint where the local reds struggled up through the shadow that lay brooding over the desolate scene。 If within the domain of nature such another region is to be found； it can only be in the heart of those awful solitudes which science has unveiled to us amid the untrodden fastnesses of the lunar mountains。 An hour before reaching our old camping…ground at Thingvalla； as if summoned by enchantment； a dull grey mist closed around us； and suddenly confounded in undistinguishable ruin the glory and the terror of the panorama we had traversed； sky； mountains； horizon； all had disappeared； and as we strained our eyes from the edge of the Rabna Gja across the monotonous grey level at our feet； it was almost difficult to believe that there lay the same magical plain； the first sight of which had become almost an epoch in our lives。
I had sent on cook； baggage； and guides； some hours before we ourselves started； so that on our arrival we found a dry； cosy tent； and a warm dinner awaiting us。 The rapid transformation of the aspect of the country； which I had just witnessed； made me quite understand how completely the success of an expedit
