letters from high latitudes-第15章
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f their company； and in ten minutes we had all become the best of friends。 It is true the conversation was carried on in rather a wild jargon； made up of six different languagesIcelandic； English； German； Latin； Danish； Frenchbut in spite of the difficulty with which he expressed himself； it was impossible not to be struck with the simple earnest character of my German convive。 He was about five…and…twenty； a 〃doctor philosophiae；〃 and had come to Iceland to catch gnats。 After having caught gnats in Iceland； he intended； he said； to spend some years in catching gnats in Spain。the privacy of Spanish gnats； as it appears； not having been hitherto invaded。 The truth is； my guest was an entomologist； and in the pursuit of the objects of his study was evidently prepared to approach hardships and danger with a serenity that would not have been unworthy of the apostle of a new religion。 It was almost touching to hear him describe the intensity of his joy when perhaps days and nights of fruitless labours were at last rewarded by the discovery of some hitherto unknown little fly； and it was with my whole heart that； at parting； I wished him success in his career； and the fame that so much conscientious labour merited。 From my allusion to this last reward； however； he seemed almost to shrink； and； with a sincerity it was impossible to doubt； disclaimed as ignoble so poor a motive as a thirst for fame。 His was one of those calm laborious minds； seldom found but among the Teutonic race； thatpursuing day by day with single…minded energy some special objectlive in a noble obscurity； and die at last content with the consciousness of having added one other stone to that tower of knowledge men are building up toward heaven； even though the world should never learn what strong and patient hands have placed it there。
The next morning we started for the Geysirs： this time dividing the baggage…train； and sending on the cook in light marching order； with the materials for dinner。 The weather still remained unclouded； and each mile we advanced disclosed some new wonder in the unearthly landscape。 A three hours' ride brought us to the Rabna Gja； the eastern boundary of Thingvalla； and； winding up its rugged face； we took our last look over the lovely plain beneath us； and then manfully set forward across the same kind of arid lava plateau as that which we had already traversed before arriving at the Almanna Gja。 But instead of the boundless immensity which had then so much disheartened us； the present prospect was terminated by a range of quaint parti…coloured hills； which rose before us in such fantastic shapes that I could not take my eyes off them。 I do not know whether it was the strong coffee or the invigorating air that stimulated my imagination； but I certainly felt convinced I was coming to some mystical spotout of space； out of timewhere I should suddenly light upon a green…scaled griffin； or golden…haired princess； or other bonnie fortune of the olden days。 Certainly a more appropriate scene for such an encounter could not be conceived； than that which displayed itself； when we wheeled at last round the flank of the scorched ridge we had been approaching。 A perfectly smooth grassy plain； about a league square； and shaped like a horse…shoe； opened before us； encompassed by bare cinder…like hills； that rose roundred； black； and yellowin a hundred uncouth peaks of ash and slag。 Not a vestige of vegetation relieved the aridity of their vitrified sides； while the verdant carpet at their feet only made the fire…moulded circle seem more weird and impassable。 Had I had a trumpet and a lance； I should have blown a blast of defiance on the one； and having shaken the other toward the foul corners of the world； would have calmly waited to see what next might betide。 Three arrows shot bravely forward would have probably resulted in the discovery of a trap…door with an iron ring； but having neither trumpet； lance； nor arrow； we simply alighted and lunched： yet even then I could not help thinking how lucky it was that； not eating dates； we could not inadvertently fling their stones into the eye of any inquisitive genie who might be in the neighbourhood。
After the usual hour's rest and change of horses； we galloped away to the other side of the plain； and； doubling the further horn of the semicircle； suddenly found ourselves in a district as unlike the cinder mountains we had quitted as they had differed from the volcanic scenery of the day before。 On the left lay a long rampart of green hills； opening up every now and then into Scottish glens and gorges； while from their roots to the horizon stretched a vast breadth of meadowland； watered by two or three rivers； that wound； and twisted； and coiled about； like blue serpents。 Here and there； white volumes of vapour； that rose in endless wreaths from the ground； told of mighty cauldrons at work beneath that moist cool verdant carpet； while large silvery lakes； and flat…topped isolated hills； relieved the monotony of the level land； and carried on the eye to where the three snowy peaks of Mount Hecla shone cold and clear against the sky。
Of course it was rather tantalizing to pass so near this famous burning mountain without having an opportunity of ascending it； but the expedition would have taken up too much time。 In appearance Hecla differs very little from the innumerable other volcanic hills with which the island is studded。 Its cone consists of a pyramid of stone and scoriae； rising to the height of about five thousand feet； and welded together by bands of molten matter which have issued from its sides。 From A。D。 1004 to 1766 there have been twenty…three eruptions； occurring at intervals which have varied in duration； from six to seventy…six years。 The one of 1766 was remarkably violent。 It commenced on the 5th of April by the appearance of a huge pillar of black sand mounting slowly into the heavens； accompanied by subterranean thunders； and all the other symptoms which precede volcanic disturbances。 Then a coronet of flame encircled the crater； masses of red rock； pumice； and magnetic stones were flung out with tremendous violence to an incredible distance； and in such continuous multitudes as to resemble a swarm of bees clustering over the mountain。 One boulder of pumice six feet in circumference was pitched twenty miies away； another of magnetic iron fell at a distance of fifteen。 The surface of the earth was covered； for a circuit of one hundred and fifty miles； with a layer of sand four inches deep； the air was so darkened by it； that at a place one hundred and forty miles off； white paper held up at a little distance could not be distinguished from black。 The fishermen could not put to sea on account of the darkness； and the inhabitants of the Orkney islands were frightened out of their senses by showers of what they thought must be black snow。 On the 9th of April； the lava began to overflow； and ran for five miles in a southwesterly direction； whilst； some days later；in order that no element might be wanting to mingle in this devil's charivari；a vast column of water； like Robin Hood's second arrow； split up through the cinder pillar to the height of several hundred feet； the horror of the spectacle being further enhanced by an accompaniment of subterranean cannonading and dire reports； heard at a distance of fifty miles。
Striking as all this must have been； it sinks into comparative tameness and insignificance； beside the infinitely more terrible phenomena which attended the eruption of another volcano； called Skapta jokul。
Of all countries in Europe； Iceland is the one which has been the most minutely mapped； not even excepting the ordnance survey of Ireland。 The Danish Government seem to have had a hobby about it； and the result has been a chart so beautifully executed； that every little crevice； each mountain torrent； each flood of lava； is laid down with an accuracy perfectly astonishing。 One huge blank； however； in the south…west corner of this map of Iceland； mars the integrity of its almost microscopic delineations。 To every other part of the island the engineer has succeeded in penetrating； one vast space alone of about four hundred square miles has defied his investigation。 Over
