letters from high latitudes-第14章
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1261 the island became an appanage of the Norwegian crown。 Yet even then the deed embodying the concession of their independence was drawn up in such haughty terms as to resemble rather the offer of an equal alliance than the renunciation of imperial rights。 Soon； however； the apathy which invariably benumbs the faculties of a people too entirely relieved from the discipline and obligation of self…government； lapped in complete inactivity； moral； political； and intellectual；these once stirring islanders。 On the amalgamation of the three Scandinavian monarchies； at the union of Calmar； the allegiance of the people of Iceland was passively transferred to the Danish crown。 Ever since that time； Danish proconsuls have administered their government； and Danish restrictions have regulated their trade。 The traditions of their ancient autonomy have become as unsubstantial and obsolete as those which record the vanished fame of their poets and historians； and the exploits of their mariners。 It is true； the adoption of the Lutheran religion galvanized for a moment into the semblance of activity the old literary spirit。 A printing…press was introduced as early as 1530； and ever since the sixteenth century many works of merit have been produced from time to time by Icelandic genius。 Shakespeare； Milton； and Pope have been translated into the native tongue； one of the best printed newspapers I have ever seen is now published at Reykjavik； and the Colleges of Copenhagen are adorned by many an illustrious Icelandic scholar； but the glory of the old days is departed； and it is across a wide desolate flat of ignoble annals； as dull and arid as their own lava plains； that the student has to look back upon the glorious drama of Iceland's early history。 As I gazed around on the silent； deserted plain； and paced to and fro along the untrodden grass that now clothed the Althing； I could scarcely believe it had ever been the battle…field where such keen and energetic wits encountered；that the fire…scathed rocks I saw before me were the very same that had once inspired one of the most successful rhetorical appeals ever hazarded in a public assembly。
As an account of the debate to which I allude has been carefully preserved； I may as well give you an abstract of it。 A more characteristic leaf out of the Parliamentary Annals of Iceland you could scarcely have。
In the summer of the year 1000； when Ethelred the Unready ruled in England； and fourteen years after Hugh Capet had succeeded the last Carlovingian on the throne of France；the Icelandic legislature was convened for the consideration of a very important subjectno less important； indeed； than an inquiry into the merits of a new religion lately brought into the country by certain emissaries of Olaf Tryggveson；the first Christian king of Norway；and the same who pulled down London bridge。
The assembly met。 The Norse missionaries were called upon to enunciate to the House the tenets of the faith they were commissioned to disclose； and the debate began。 Great and fierce was the difference of opinion。 The good old Tory party； supported by all the authority of the Odin establishment； were violent in opposition。 The Whigs advocated the new arrangement； and； as the king supported their own views； insisted strongly on the Divine right。 Several liberal members permitted themselves to speak sarcastically of the Valhalla tap； and the ankles of Freya。 The discussion was at its height； when suddenly a fearful peal of subterranean thunder roared around the Althing。 〃Listen！〃 cried an orator of the Pagan party； 〃how angry is Odin that we should even consider the subject of a new religion。 His fires will consume us。〃 To which a ready debater on the other side replied； by 〃begging leave to ask the honourable gentleman；with whom were the gods angry when these rocks were melted？〃pointing to the devastated plain around him。 Taking advantage of so good a hit； the Treasury 〃whips〃 immediately called for a division； and the Christian religion was adopted by a large majority。
The first Christian missionaries who came to Iceland seem to have had a rather peculiar manner of enforcing the truths of the Gospel。 Their leader was a person of the name of Thangbrand。 Like the Protestant clergymen Queen Elizabeth despatched to convert Ireland； he was bundled over to Iceland principally because he was too disreputable to be allowed to live in Norway。 The old Chronicler gives a very quaint description of him。 〃Thangbrand；〃 he says； 〃was a passionate； ungovernable person； and a great man…slayer； but a good scholar； and clever。 Thorvald； and Veterlid the Scald； composed a lampoon against him； but he killed them both outright。 Thangbrand was two years in Iceland； and was the death of three men before he left it。〃
From the Althing we strolled over to the Almanna Gja； visiting the Pool of Execution on our way。 As I have already mentioned； a river from the plateau above leaps over the precipice into the bottom of the Gja； and flows for a certain distance between its walls。 At the foot of the fall the waters linger for a moment in a dark； deep； brimming pool； hemmed in by a circle of ruined rocks； to this pool； in ancient times； all women convicted of capital crimes were immediately taken； and drowned。 Witchcraft seems to have been the principal weakness of ladies in those days； throughout the Scandinavian countries。 For a long period no disgrace was attached to its profession。 Odin himself； we are expressly told； was a great adept； and always found himself very much exhausted at the end of his performance； which leads me to think that perhaps he dabbled in electro…biology。 At last the advent of Christianity threw discredit on the practice； severe punishments were denounced against all who indulged in it； and； in the end； its mysteries became the monopoly of the Laplanders。
All criminals； men and women； were tried by juries； and that the accused had the power of challenging the jurymen empannelled to try them； appears from the following extract from the Book of Laws：〃The judges shall go out on Washday； i。e。； Saturday； and continue out for challenges； until the sun comes on Thingvalla on the Lord's…day。〃 And again； 〃The power of challenging shall cease as soon as the sun can no longer be seen above the western brink of the chasm； from the Logberg。〃
Turning aside from what； I dare say； was the scene of many an unrecorded tragedy； we descended the gorge of the Almanna Gja； towards the lake； and I took advantage of the opportunity again to examine its marvellous construction。 The perpendicular walls of rock rose on either hand from the flat greensward that carpeted its bottom； pretty much as the waters of the Red Sea must have risen on each side of the fugitive Israelites。 A blaze of light smote the face of one cliff； while the other lay in the deepest shadow； and on the rugged surface of each might still be traced corresponding articulations； that once had dovetailed into each other； ere the igneous mass was rent asunder。 So unchanged； so recent seemed the vestiges of this convulsion； that I felt as if I had been admitted to witness one of nature's grandest and most violent operations； almost in the very act of its execution。 A walk of about twenty minutes brought us to the borders of the lakea glorious expanse of water； fifteen miles long； by eight miles broad； occupying a basin formed by the same hills； which must also； I imagine； have arrested the further progress of the lava torrent。 A lovelier scene I have seldom witnessed。 In the foreground lay huge masses of rock and lava； tossed about like the ruins of a world； and washed by waters as bright and green as polished malachite。 Beyond； a bevy of distant mountains； robed by the transparent atmosphere in tints unknown to Europe； peeped over each other's shoulders into the silver mirror at their feet； while here and there from among their purple ridges columns of white vapour rose like altar smoke toward the tranquil heaven。
On returning home we found dinner waiting for us。 I had invited the clergyman； and a German gentleman who was lodging with him； to give us the pleasure of their company； and in ten minutes we had all become the best of friends。 It is true the conversati
