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as the phrase goes … a man; besides; who had taken his degree in 

life and knew a thing or two about the age we live in。  We were 

deep in talk; whirling between Peterborough and London; among other 

things; he began to describe some piece of legal injustice he had 

recently encountered; and I observed in my innocence that things 

were not so in Scotland。  〃I beg your pardon;〃 said he; 〃this is a 

matter of law。〃  He had never heard of the Scots law; nor did he 

choose to be informed。  The law was the same for the whole country; 

he told me roundly; every child knew that。  At last; to settle 

matters; I explained to him that I was a member of a Scottish legal 

body; and had stood the brunt of an examination in the very law in 

question。  Thereupon he looked me for a moment full in the face and 

dropped the conversation。  This is a monstrous instance; if you 

like; but it does not stand alone in the experience of Scots。



England and Scotland differ; indeed; in law; in history; in 

religion; in education; and in the very look of nature and men's 

faces; not always widely; but always trenchantly。  Many particulars 

that struck Mr。 Grant White; a Yankee; struck me; a Scot; no less 

forcibly; he and I felt ourselves foreigners on many common 

provocations。  A Scotchman may tramp the better part of Europe and 

the United States; and never again receive so vivid an impression 

of foreign travel and strange lands and manners as on his first 

excursion into England。  The change from a hilly to a level country 

strikes him with delighted wonder。  Along the flat horizon there 

arise the frequent venerable towers of churches。  He sees at the 

end of airy vistas the revolution of the windmill sails。  He may go 

where he pleases in the future; he may see Alps; and Pyramids; and 

lions; but it will be hard to beat the pleasure of that moment。  

There are; indeed; few merrier spectacles than that of many 

windmills bickering together in a fresh breeze over a woody 

country; their halting alacrity of movement; their pleasant 

business; making bread all day with uncouth gesticulations; their 

air; gigantically human; as of a creature half alive; put a spirit 

of romance into the tamest landscape。  When the Scotch child sees 

them first he falls immediately in love; and from that time forward 

windmills keep turning in his dreams。  And so; in their degree; 

with every feature of the life and landscape。  The warm; habitable 

age of towns and hamlets; the green; settled; ancient look of the 

country; the lush hedgerows; stiles; and privy path…ways in the 

fields; the sluggish; brimming rivers; chalk and smock…frocks; 

chimes of bells and the rapid; pertly…sounding English speech … 

they are all new to the curiosity; they are all set to English airs 

in the child's story that he tells himself at night。  The sharp 

edge of novelty wears off; the feeling is scotched; but I doubt 

whether it is ever killed。  Rather it keeps returning; ever the 

more rarely and strangely; and even in scenes to which you have 

been long accustomed suddenly awakes and gives a relish to 

enjoyment or heightens the sense of isolation。



One thing especially continues unfamiliar to the Scotchman's eye … 

the domestic architecture; the look of streets and buildings; the 

quaint; venerable age of many; and the thin walls and warm 

colouring of all。  We have; in Scotland; far fewer ancient 

buildings; above all in country places; and those that we have are 

all of hewn or harled masonry。  Wood has been sparingly used in 

their construction; the window…frames are sunken in the wall; not 

flat to the front; as in England; the roofs are steeper…pitched; 

even a hill farm will have a massy; square; cold and permanent 

appearance。  English houses; in comparison; have the look of 

cardboard toys; such as a puff might shatter。  And to this the 

Scotchman never becomes used。  His eye can never rest consciously 

on one of these brick houses … rickles of brick; as he might call 

them … or on one of these flat…chested streets; but he is instantly 

reminded where he is; and instantly travels back in fancy to his 

home。  〃This is no my ain house; I ken by the biggin' o't。〃  And 

yet perhaps it is his own; bought with his own money; the key of it 

long polished in his pocket; but it has not yet; and never will be; 

thoroughly adopted by his imagination; nor does he cease to 

remember that; in the whole length and breadth of his native 

country; there was no building even distantly resembling it。



But it is not alone in scenery and architecture that we count 

England foreign。  The constitution of society; the very pillars of 

the empire; surprise and even pain us。  The dull; neglected 

peasant; sunk in matter; insolent; gross and servile; makes a 

startling contrast with our own long…legged; long…headed; 

thoughtful; Bible…quoting ploughman。  A week or two in such a place 

as Suffolk leaves the Scotchman gasping。  It seems incredible that 

within the boundaries of his own island a class should have been 

thus forgotten。  Even the educated and intelligent; who hold our 

own opinions and speak in our own words; yet seem to hold them with 

a difference or; from another reason; and to speak on all things 

with less interest and conviction。  The first shock of English 

society is like a cold plunge。  It is possible that the Scot comes 

looking for too much; and to be sure his first experiment will be 

in the wrong direction。  Yet surely his complaint is grounded; 

surely the speech of Englishmen is too often lacking in generous 

ardour; the better part of the man too often withheld from the 

social commerce; and the contact of mind with mind evaded as with 

terror。  A Scotch peasant will talk more liberally out of his own 

experience。  He will not put you by with conversational counters 

and small jests; he will give you the best of himself; like one 

interested in life and man's chief end。  A Scotchman is vain; 

interested in himself and others; eager for sympathy; setting forth 

his thoughts and experience in the best light。  The egoism of the 

Englishman is self…contained。  He does not seek to proselytise。  He 

takes no interest in Scotland or the Scotch; and; what is the 

unkindest cut of all; he does not care to justify his indifference。  

Give him the wages of going on and being an Englishman; that is all 

he asks; and in the meantime; while you continue to associate; he 

would rather not be reminded of your baser origin。  Compared with 

the grand; tree…like self…sufficiency of his demeanour; the vanity 

and curiosity of the Scot seem uneasy; vulgar; and immodest。  That 

you should continually try to establish human and serious 

relations; that you should actually feel an interest in John Bull; 

and desire and invite a return of interest from him; may argue 

something more awake and lively in your mind; but it still puts you 

in the attitude of a suitor and a poor relation。  Thus even the 

lowest class of the educated English towers over a Scotchman by the 

head and shoulders。



Different indeed is the atmosphere in which Scotch and English 

youth begin to look about them; come to themselves in life; and 

gather up those first apprehensions which are the material of 

future thought and; to a great extent; the rule of future conduct。  

I have been to school in both countries; and I found; in the boys 

of the North; something at once rougher and more tender; at once 

more reserve and more expansion; a greater habitual distance 

chequered by glimpses of a nearer intimacy; and on the whole wider 

extremes of temperament and sensibility。  The boy of the South 

seems more wholesome; but less thoughtful; he gives himself to 

games as to a business; striving to excel; but is not readily 

transported by imagination; the type remains with me as cleaner in 

mind and body; more active; fonder of eating; endowed with a lesser 

and a less roman

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