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第7章

part01-第7章

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alameda。

  The inn to which he conducted us was called the Corona; or Crown;

and we found it quite in keeping with the character of the place;

the inhabitants of which seem still to retain the bold; fiery spirit

of the olden time。 The hostess was a young and handsome Andalusian

widow; whose trim basquina of black silk; fringed with bugles; set off

the play of a graceful form and round pliant limbs。 Her step was

firm and elastic; her dark eye was full of fire; and the coquetry of

her air; and varied ornaments of her person; showed that she was

accustomed to be admired。

  She was well matched by a brother; nearly about her own age; they

were perfect models of the Andalusian majo and maja。 He was tall;


vigorous; and well…formed; with a clear olive complexion; a dark

beaming eye; and curling chestnut whiskers that met under his chin。 He

was gallantly dressed in a short green velvet jacket; fitted to his

shape; profusely decorated with silver buttons; with a white

handkerchief in each pocket。 He had breeches of the same; with rows of

buttons from the hips to the knees; a pink silk handkerchief round his

neck; gathered through a ring; on the bosom of a neatly…plaited shirt;

a sash round the waist to match; bottinas; or spatterdashes; of the

finest russet leather; elegantly worked; and open at the calf to

show his stockings and russet shoes; setting off a well…shaped foot。

  As he was standing at the door; a horseman rode up and entered

into low and earnest conversation with him。 He was dressed in a

similar style; and almost with equal finery… a man about thirty;

square…built; with strong Roman features; handsome; though slightly

pitted with the small…pox; with a free; bold; and somewhat daring air。

His powerful black horse was decorated with tassels and fanciful

trappings; and a couple of broad…mouthed blunderbusses hung behind the

saddle。 He had the air of one of those contrabandistas I have seen

in the mountains of Ronda; and evidently had a good understanding with

the brother of mine hostess; nay; if I mistake not; he was a favored

admirer of the widow。 In fact; the whole inn and its inmates had

something of a contrabandista aspect; and a blunderbuss stood in a

corner beside the guitar。 The horseman I have mentioned passed his

evening in the posada; and sang several bold mountain romances with

great spirit。 As we were at supper; two poor Asturians put in in

distress; begging food and a night's lodging。 They had been waylaid by

robbers as they came from a fair among the mountains; robbed of a

horse; which carried all their stock in trade; stripped of their

money; and most of their apparel; beaten for having offered

resistance; and left almost naked in the road。 My companion; with a

prompt generosity natural to him; ordered them a supper and a bed; and

gave them a sum of money to help them forward towards their home。

  As the evening advanced; the dramatis personae thickened。 A large

man; about sixty years of age; of powerful frame; came strolling in;

to gossip with mine hostess。 He was dressed in the ordinary Andalusian

costume; but had a huge sabre tucked under his arm; wore large

moustaches; and had something of a lofty swaggering air。 Every one

seemed to regard him with great deference。

  Our man Sancho whispered to us that he was Don Ventura Rodriguez;

the hero and champion of Loxa; famous for his prowess and the strength

of his arm。 In the time of the French invasion he surprised six

troopers who were asleep: he first secured their horses; then attacked

them with his sabre; killed some; and took the rest prisoners。 For

this exploit the king allows him a peseta (the fifth of a duro; or

dollar) per day; and has dignified him with the title of Don。

  I was amused to behold his swelling language and demeanor。 He was

evidently a thorough Andalusian; boastful as brave。 His sabre was

always in his hand or under his arm。 He carries it always about with

him as a child does her doll; calls it his Santa Teresa; and says;

〃When I draw it; the earth trembles〃 (〃tiembla la tierra〃)。

  I sat until a late hour listening to the varied themes of this

motley group; who mingled together with the unreserve of a Spanish

posada。 We had contrabandista songs; stories of robbers; guerilla

exploits; and Moorish legends。 The last were from our handsome

landlady; who gave a poetical account of the infiernos; or infernal

regions of Loxa; dark caverns; in which subterranean streams and

waterfalls make a mysterious sound。 The common people say that there

are money…coiners shut up there from the time of the Moors; and that

the Moorish kings kept their treasures in those caverns。

  I retired to bed with my imagination excited by all that I had

seen and heard in this old warrior city。 Scarce had I fallen asleep

when I was aroused by a horrid din and uproar; that might have

confounded the hero of La Mancha himself whose experience of Spanish

inns was a continual uproar。 It seemed for a moment as if the Moors

were once more breaking into the town; or the infiernos of which

mine hostess talked had broken loose。 I sallied forth half dressed

to reconnoiter。 It was nothing more nor less than a charivari to

celebrate the nuptials of an old man with a buxom damsel。 Wishing

him joy of his bride and his serenade; I returned to my more quiet

bed; and slept soundly until morning。

  While dressing; I amused myself in reconnoitering the populace

from my window。 There were groups of fine…looking young men in the

trim fanciful Andalusian costume; with brown cloaks; thrown about them

in true Spanish style; which cannot be imitated; and little round majo

hats stuck on with a peculiar knowing air。 They had the same

galliard look which I have remarked among the dandy mountaineers of

Ronda。 Indeed; all this part of Andalusia abounds with such

game…looking characters。 They loiter about the towns and villages;

seem to have plenty of time and plenty of money: 〃horse to ride and

weapon to wear。〃 Great gossips; great smokers; apt at touching the

guitar; singing couplets to their maja belles; and famous dancers of

the bolero。 Throughout all Spain the men; however poor; have a

gentleman…like abundance of leisure; seeming to consider it the

attribute of a true cavaliero never to be in a hurry; but the

Andalusians are gay as well as leisurely; and have none of the squalid

accompaniments of idleness。 The adventurous contraband trade which

prevails throughout these mountain regions; and along the maritime

borders of Andalusia; is doubtless at the bottom of this galliard

character。

  In contrast to the costume of these groups was that of two

long…legged Valencians conducting a donkey; laden with articles of

merchandise; their musket slung crosswise over his back ready for

action。 They wore round jackets (jalecos); wide linen bragas or

drawers scarce reaching to the knees and looking like kilts; red fajas

or sashes swathed tightly round their waists; sandals of espartal or

bass weed; colored kerchiefs round their heads somewhat in the style

of turbans but leaving the top of the head uncovered; in short;

their whole appearance having much of the traditional Moorish stamp。

  On leaving Loxa we were joined by a cavalier; well mounted and

well armed; and followed on foot by an escopetero or musketeer。 He

saluted us courteously; and soon let us into his quality。 He was chief

of the customs; or rather; I should suppose; chief of an armed company

whose business it is to patrol the roads and look out for

contrabandistas。 The escopetero was one of his guards。 In the course

of our morning's ride I drew from him some particulars concerning

the smugglers; who have risen to be a kind of mongrel chivalry in

Spain。 They come into Andalusia; he said; from various parts; but

especially from La Mancha; sometimes to receive goods; to be

smuggled on an appointed night across the line at the plaza or

strand of Gibraltar; sometimes to meet a vessel; which is to h

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